Removing rear springs

mrsbojigger
mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Howdy,

I need to remove the rear leaf springs from my 51 Hudson to refurbish them. When I took a closer look it seems that the outer portion of the mounting bracket is capped over. It looks like the only way to remove the front part of the spring is to drill out the mounting brackets so both sides of the bracket can come off. I was hoping that it might be easier than this. What do you think?

Peace,

Chaz

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I could also use this info.



    Jay
  • Walt-LA
    Walt-LA Senior Contributor
    I took a look at the 1951 A series Mechanical Procedure Manual which says that the front of the springs are attached to the brackets by a pivot bolt which is cushioned in rubber. Pivot bolt is removed to drop the spring. The rear is attached by a U shaped shackle. Kgap sells the rubber bushings. . No mention of any drilling. Need to change mine as well. Walt
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Walt,

    The part that shows looks more like a nut at the end of a threaded bolt rather than the head of a bolt. I can see a few threads sticking out from what appears to be a nut which is facing the center of the car not towards the outside.

    Peace,

    Chaz
  • Walt-LA
    Walt-LA Senior Contributor
    Chaz,



    Sounds like that's it. Instructions are: Remove the rear spring front bolt, nut, and bushing.



    This done after having removed spring from rear shackle. And finally separate spring from axle. I'll take a look at mine tomorrow. Walt
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    I'll check mine out again tomorrow. Could be my eyesight. Thats what happens when you get this age. Too late here tonight. I'll let you know what I find tomorrow.

    Chaz
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    The pin or shackle bolt will then push out after removeing the nut.
  • russmaas
    russmaas Senior Contributor
    From experience most likely after the nut is taken off the bolt will need to bee heated up and push out with a punch and hammer, the bolt end has a round shape and kind off is pressed into the frame. Took two sets of rear springs off last week. Remember that the u shape shakle in the rear has a left handed thread and a right on each one.
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    OK, I finally got around to trying to remove the rear parallel leaf springs.

    1. I removed the rear shackles.

    2. Removed shocks and emerg brake lines.

    3. Removed rear end.

    4. Removed the nut from the pivot bolts on each side at the front of the rear leaf springs.

    5. Now I am looking at what looks like a piece of "all thread" sticking out on each side at the leaf spring mounting brackets toward the center of the car.



    Now this is where I am confused. If the pivot bolt is just sitting in there from just the pressure of the rubber spring grommets, why would you even need the nuts?

    Does the pivot bolt come out towards the center of the car?

    Do have to rotate it like I would be unscrewing it?

    I cant push it thru towards the outside of the car since there is a cap on the outer side of the mounting bracket.

    Please explain a little more how this pivot pin (threaded part) comes out.

    I sure feel dense and stupid with this.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    YOu need to drive the bolt out towards the centre of the car. Don't put any heat on it - there is a rubber bushing in there. There is a large flat washer under the nut which slightly compresses the rubber bushing. Probably looks like it is part of the bracket with all the gunk around it. Nothing technical or difficult about this.

    Geoff.
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    When you say "drive the bolt out", don't you mean "pull the bolt out"?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    As Geoff says drive the bolt out. You might need to put the nut back on without the washer just flush with bolt so as not to bugger the thread till you get it to move.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Right - you hit the threaded end.

    Geoff.
  • russmaas
    russmaas Senior Contributor
    You drive it out to the towards the OUTSIDE of the car not the center. Heat is fine because most likely the rubber is shot and I assume you are going to change the grommets from KGAP. Heat the "head" of the bolt. That is located inside the triangle of the frame. Like I said before, the head becomes flush with the frame so rust may cover the head up.
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Mission Accomplished !!!!

    It sure looked like a solid piece of metal in there. I went on blind faith and "wacked" it a really good blow and it came loose immediately and with little or no effort they both came out. One of the things that I think hinders me working on the Hudson is that I grew up working on Fords and Chevrolets and I am accustomed to their engineering.

    Thanks a lot guys!

    Peace,

    Chaz
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    So Chaz, did you hit the threaded end of the bolt and drive it towards the center of the car to remove - or did you hit the head of the bolt and drive it towards the outside of the car to remove?
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Outside, Outside !!!

    That was a sneaky bolt head. It just visually blended in with the rust color of the bracket. Being counter sunk didn't help to identify it either.
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