Railton Fairmile 37 engine identification

Terraplane33
Expert Adviser
Someone asked me today wether I could help to find out the right ignition settings for his Railton Fairmile 8 1937.
I'm pretty sure I could find this information in the famous Library from M. Alex Burr but I do not know what Hudson and from what year this engine corresponds to. I would like to make sure to forward the right information of course...
The engine information I have are as follows :
Hudson E126 on the cylinder head
Cast numbers on the engine :
152501
H
6137
The car tends to overheat so that's why he wants to make sure (or correct) the timing and points clearance are OK. Radiator, water jacket and pump have been checked and seem to work well. Compressions have also been checked (thinking valve leakage is a potential overheat cause). The engine has been cleaned out internally also but any other idea where this may come from are very welcome !
Thanks for your help !
Here is a picture of the engine that might help identifying it :
I'm pretty sure I could find this information in the famous Library from M. Alex Burr but I do not know what Hudson and from what year this engine corresponds to. I would like to make sure to forward the right information of course...
The engine information I have are as follows :
Hudson E126 on the cylinder head
Cast numbers on the engine :
152501
H
6137
The car tends to overheat so that's why he wants to make sure (or correct) the timing and points clearance are OK. Radiator, water jacket and pump have been checked and seem to work well. Compressions have also been checked (thinking valve leakage is a potential overheat cause). The engine has been cleaned out internally also but any other idea where this may come from are very welcome !
Thanks for your help !
Here is a picture of the engine that might help identifying it :

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Comments
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The manual, from the thirties way into the fifties, says set timing at Top Dead Center if using 80 octane fuel, advance a bit for higher octane, but in not case beyond 1/2" from TDC on the flywheel marks. To be conservative I'd set it about 1/4" from the TDC mark.0
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Engine is probably a 36 as Railton bought up unsold chassis at the end of the year. If it has a serial number on the engine it would be stamped in the top of the block between the first two exhaust ports.0
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I see the problem . . .its the wrong color , should be silver. Blue paint is too thick - holds the heat in
Roger0 -
BTW, the 36 engines were the last to have 1bbl carbs on them, the 37s had 2 bbl carbs.0
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Thanks for all these very quick and valuable informations !
This car had originally a single carburetor but la 2bbl carburetor was installed recently by the current owner, thus probably a 36 as said above.
I will try to get the serial number of the engine and come back !0 -
The Railton (most of the Railtons were built by Coachcraft) folks did not track the cars by engine number. They used Body # And Chasis #. They were also big on the initial registration number handed out by the English government. My Coachcraft book can give us some good identification on this. Also, my Car number is 643679 and it was built in late September of 1936. My Registration number was EPH317. Now with all this said, none if it is important because the cars would go to Coachcraft and start a build but they did not run in sequence. There is a completion date in the book but no start date (depending on the delivery date of the Railton, it most likely started the process ten months eairler. My engine is a 36 but with the Railton you are speaking of, the engine would be the same as mine. There was little diference between the 36 and 37 chasis that was delivered by Hudson so the data from Park would apply. Hudson engines were silver. Not sure what color the Railtons were?0
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I was told this morning there is no engine number as foreseen by Browniepetersen. They set the ignition close to 0° TDC and it seems to heat less.
Thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge and helping !0 -
Is there any recommended value for emission control for such an old car ?
The fact is that for legal technical checks, emission are not necessary measured here because of the age of the car, ie the measurements of the exhaust emissions have no incidence on the outcome (rejected or accepted).
I thought about this because a too lean air/fuel ratio could have an impact on engine overheating. The Railton is doing much better after a more accurate ignition setting but this might be something to improve even further, isn't?0 -
Does anyone know where to find rear axle bearings and some other spares for this Railton ?
Bearing reference is : BOWER USA N° BT-28300
Thanks a for your help !0 -
I would suggest that you go on line and google the Railton Owners Club. They are across the pond but they know all the sources for these cars. If you give me the numbers on the title I can check the car out in the Coachcraft book. They post all the data and even if Coachcraft did not build the car, we can trace where it was manufactured.0
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YOU SAY THE WATER JACKET IS OK BUT HAS IT BEEN REMOVED ? MAKE SURE THE PLATE WITH THE HOLES IS NOT ALL ROTTED OUT THIS WOULD MAKE THE CAR RUN WARM BECAUSE THE WATER IS NOT GOING ALL THE WAY TO THE REAR OF THE ENGINE??0
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Charlie Harris has had those remade in stainless (the plate not the whole jacket)
Roger0 -
roger i had the one on my 34 sedan plated with copper at the chrome shop they dipped it for me a few times mine will never rot out I HAVE SOME NEW 37 TO 52 8 CLY ONES I WAS GOING TO SELL I JUST MIGHT HAVE THE DIPPED IN COPPER ALSO0
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Thats a good solution to the rust issue . I know every one Ive ever taken off was rotten to some extent on the 212 & 254 .
Roger0 -
As far as I remember, his water jacket was fine, I sent him a couple pictures from the one I got from Cargray for my ET33 just to make sure !
Thanks for your support !!0 -
The WTN had a tech bulletin, as a center fold, on how to build one of these baffels. TS 84-2, Rebuilding the water distribution manifold.
This bulletin is in the online library - click on "Other H-E-T Literature" and then on Hudson Technical Bulletins. Vol 1. It's a little fuzzy but going by an old plate should be able to figure it out.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
Thanks a lot Alex, good to know how to proceed when in trouble with this ! I will have a close look at this !
VIN number is : 7A85P000(7)01756402
(7) could also be 1 because not easy to read.
Engine number is : E12V 152501 H 6137
This person contacted ROC but they have no trace prior to 1971, year of a (first?) restauration in New Zealand. It seems this car has traveled a lot as it was purchased with a licence plate from The Netherlands 2 years ago.
I did not remember exactly from earlier phone calls but the cooling manifold seems OK, here are some pictures when it was removed :
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Are there other placed where he could find the VIN (just to be sure about the (7) ninth digit) ?
On the front wheel axle like on my ET33 maybe ? or other places ?
Thanks !0 -
That is a replacement inner baffel, as the water holes should be near the bottom. Number 4 hole has to be widened to clear the block support leg, it blocks the hole. Walt.0
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That is a replacement inner baffel, as the water holes should be near the bottom. Number 4 hole has to be widened to clear the block support leg, it blocks the hole. Walt.0
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Thanks Walt for your very sharp and valuable input and for sharing your experience !
I saw the baffel was not original from the inlet welding but I did not pay attention to the rest...
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