engine runs hot

1954Hudson
1954Hudson Member
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Has anyone ever run IRON OUT in an engine to clean the cooling sys out ? I have a 1950 Hudson 8 cyl that heats up, Rad is good ,water pump is good also,hoses good,side pan clean : :confused:

Comments

  • PAULARGETYPE
    PAULARGETYPE Senior Contributor
    I Don't Know What Iron Out Is But Make Sure Your Using A Thermostat It Slows Down The Water Flow So The Rad Can Cool It Down And Are You Sure Your Running Hot? I Know What Your Thinking But I Use A Temp Mesuring Gauge So I'm Not Trusting The Temp Gauge In The Car As You Could Have A Bad Gauge Or A Bad Sending Unit
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    I had a visit from a club member with his '38 Terraplane Roadster, who was worried about it running hot. He drove 20 miles to get here, and when he arrived I was able to undo the radiator cap and dip my finger in the water. Sure, the gauge read hot, but the sender unit is located at the back of the head, probably the hottest part of the system, so it indicates that the thermostat is doing it's job. If you are not using any water, I wouldn't worry too much about the reading. If you are using anti/freeze anti/boil liquid in the water and it is not blowing any out or showing bubbles in the radiator neck you should be okay, but you could get the temperature measured if you are worried about it.

    Geoff.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    My 8 was running hot and I borrowed a tip from Walt Mordenti. He says too much coolant is recirculating thru the engine.



    Go to the hardware store and get a 1/2 or 3/4 (can't remember) copper pipe end to put in the short horizontal bypass hose between the water pump and the thermostat neck to block it off. Drill a 1/16 hole in it so it doesn't constipate the system and secure with a hose clamp on the outside of the hose.



    Fixed mine.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    Examination of the relevant parts indicates that if the proper type thermostat is installed and working correctly, there should be very little coolant flowing through the bypass hose. The thermostat has to be of the type expressly for the engines with the bypass.
  • Uncle Josh wrote:
    My 8 was running hot and I borrowed a tip from Walt Mordenti. He says too much coolant is recirculating thru the engine.



    Go to the hardware store and get a 1/2 or 3/4 (can't remember) copper pipe end to put in the short horizontal bypass hose between the water pump and the thermostat neck to block it off. Drill a 1/16 hole in it so it doesn't constipate the system and secure with a hose clamp on the outside of the hose.



    Fixed mine.



    Whenever I see someone want to limit water flow to fix a heating problem, I worry a little. The old flathead fords had heating problems for years and ford through eveything but the kitchen sink at them and never solved the problem. One of the things they did was restrict water by making head gaskets that closed off a lot of the flow holes. If Hudsons have flow problems, why don't we hear more about them overheating?
  • I agree. I had the same problem with my 37' terraplane. After checking everything possible to the coolant system, My cousin had been monkeying with it when I had a back fire. It started and ran after he messed with it so I thought nothing of it. I checked the timing. It was off considerably. I reset it and now my over heating has stopped. If I would have known earlier it would have saved me several hundred dollars and time.
  • Crips, I cant get my T8 over 180 unless it sets and idles in the sun for 1/2 hour or so. Usually runs around 160 on the open road. Doesnt help gas miliage either, but get your timing. that will do it.
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    In answer to your original question. Yes I have run Iron Out in all my Hudsons and it works great. I do it once, when I buy them from others. Empty the system and flush with clean water, take a 2 gal. bucket and fill with water and add 1/2-1 pound of Iron out. It is basically sodium hydrosulfite so don't breath it much and wear gloves. Smells like rotten duck eggs. Pour in Rad. and add water until rest of system is full. run for 1 hour and add to within one inch of filler neck, with t-stat out. Shut down and let stand over night. Next day Drain at all points on the block and radiator, then flush with clean water for 10-15 minutes. Run water in at T stat hole in head, and radiator top. removing the lower hose helps too.



    Once cleaned, close up and fill with 50/50 ethylene glycol and water and you should be good to go [in the system cleanliness department.] Over heating can also be, water pump impeller worn or depth setting wrong even on a new pump, sender unit bad, bad t-stat, timing off, plugged radiator fins outside, with bugs or leaves, even a chunk of debris in the H2o pump or block. Run with the rad. cap off and a new 160-185 deg. t.stat in and stick a meat thermometer in the fill neck. If it reads 160 - 185 deg. move on to the temp. sender for you problem.. CLR [ calcium/lime/rust] is OK to use too, but old rotted hoses will begin to leak if not replaced first. And yes you can run it down the drain or on the ground. Good luck. Bobby

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    Just in case.
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