New to HET
commodorecollector
Senior Contributor
Hi everyone,
My name is Christopher and I joined HET on October 8th after frequently visiting the main webpage and facebook group many times since early July. My local chapter is the Western Region - North West Chapter which I am going to join in December when I get home for winter break. As for the Hudson's I own at the moment, I have a 1949 Hudson Commodore 6 sedan at home back in Canada and a 1941 Hudson Commodore 6 sedan that I am going to bringing back home sometime next year.
At the moment I am going to Wyotech Sacramento enrolled in the Collision and Refinishing Program with the Street Rod and Custom Fabrication Speciality with a goal after I finish to work in the restoration business as a profession.
Being down in Northern California at the moment without no car to get around I am on the look out for a pickup, either an El Camino or better (if I can find one) a 1939-1947 Hudson Pickup within my budget (Condition #4 , Non-Op reg or running, Auto trans, needs minor engine work but is legal to drive)
My name is Christopher and I joined HET on October 8th after frequently visiting the main webpage and facebook group many times since early July. My local chapter is the Western Region - North West Chapter which I am going to join in December when I get home for winter break. As for the Hudson's I own at the moment, I have a 1949 Hudson Commodore 6 sedan at home back in Canada and a 1941 Hudson Commodore 6 sedan that I am going to bringing back home sometime next year.
At the moment I am going to Wyotech Sacramento enrolled in the Collision and Refinishing Program with the Street Rod and Custom Fabrication Speciality with a goal after I finish to work in the restoration business as a profession.
Being down in Northern California at the moment without no car to get around I am on the look out for a pickup, either an El Camino or better (if I can find one) a 1939-1947 Hudson Pickup within my budget (Condition #4 , Non-Op reg or running, Auto trans, needs minor engine work but is legal to drive)
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Comments
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Welcome aboard, Christopher. One thing this club can always use is a body man!!! LOL There's a great bunch of people in this club - I've been hanging around for a little over 40 years - other car clubs I've been a member of over the years have come and gone. So you can see I think HET is a special organization (using organization loosely, of course)!!!! If you need help this bunch will step right up and either give you an answer or tell you where to go (I'm great at that -LOL).
My personal feeling is that this is a family with old cars to make it interesting.
Y'all take care, hear.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
Thank you Alex! I look forward to meeting other HET members soon. Heh I have one question at the moment. Before I left to the states i removed the roof bows on my commodore 6 and did not mark them in the order i took them out. Is there a way to tell them apart? or all they all the same?0
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Welcome to the community. On the top bows, they're definitely different. Here's a pic that may help. Note the longer "end bracket" on the intermediate bow.0
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Welcome to the Club!
The one Park is talking about is just aft of center and will snap up into position. That's the first one and the others rotate up into position forward and back from there and are held taut by the liner. As far as the other bows, try them in the various positions and they will 'teach ya' which one goes where.
The liner may have some minor wrinkles after installation but you can put a steaming teakettle in there for a few minutes to shrink the liner and the rest of the wrinkles will come out over time.
I also have a 49 Commadore
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Thank You Park, and Josh for the welcome! As for that picture it kinda helps, any chance does someone in HET have a picture of a 49' Hudson 4 door sedan with its roof bows? Its alright if no one has one since I could always them like Josh said.0
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On the inside headliners look real close at the end of each one. Should be a small dab of paint on each one in a different color. If its not real rusty , you then look in the parts book and it tells you where each one goes,
Roger0 -
thanks, Roger. I'll check for the paint when I get back home in December, hopefully I can see the paint dot on them.
One other thing... I do not have a key to my 49' Hudson. It was in a salvage yard for 20+ years. Any tips, advice, or tricks I could do to somehow open the two boxes on the dash?0 -
Well off hand I would say without a locksmith or breaking something no. Replacement cardboard glovebox's are available if you need to breakin from the back. Cooper in Ohio I believe has them ,and Maas was talking about strarting to make them also,
Roger0 -
If you need a parts book or shop manual both are available in the online library under 1948-1954 Manuals: (The club also has a main library that John O'Halloran takes care of.
1948-49 Hudson Shop Service Manual
1948-52 Hudson Shop Service Manual
1948-49 Group Parts Catalog 480, 490
1948-54 Hudson Master Parts Catalog
LInk to the online library: http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
Roger, are they boxes themselves really made of cardboard or is it the type of metal they used?
Alex, I ordered from Faxon Auto-literature (reprints):
1948-54 Hudson Parts Catalog
1948-49 Hudson Hudson Mechanical Procedure Manual
1948-54 Hudson Body Shop Manual
1930-50 Hudson Interchange Manual
which are definitely going to help however I am probably still going to need to check out the shop service manuals.0 -
Thanks Tim! I am looking forward to getting meeting other hudsonites after I graduate in the new year. As for the 41' I own, it currently is in the US and I am planning on shipping it myself back home in the new year at one point. Heh, there is nothing wrong with having lots of classic cars no matter what make they are. After all they are all beautiful works of art.
( was writing my comment early and clicked on one of the pictures only to have it all erased, so I had to try and remember what I wrote.)
What condition is the 47' pickup near you? #4? #5?
As for the cars in the pictures...
I'm gonna say the one on the left is a 1942 Hudson Six? (it looks like a lower end model due the fact it has no radio antenna and missing chrome on the front and rear fenders)
the middle is a 1950 Hudson Commodore 8 brought ham (the higher end model of that year, with radio. It also looks like the middle of the front bumper belongs to a 48-49 hudson.)
Finally the last car, where you only gave me the picture of the interior... i'm going to say is a Graham (I can make out the badge on the dash).0 -
Hello CommodoreCollector , Welcome to you first , The HET is always glad to help out with info and support.
And yes unless the box has been replaced it is made of a thick single ply paper board simmilar to what the door panel's would be made of but without the tar content. Somewhat thicker than shoe box and stapled together then screwed to the dash at the front .
The latch is a very simple hook type affair and if you could get your hand on top of the box you may be able to force your finger in to push the latch loose.
I dont know this - have never tried to do so but it may be possible,
Roger0 -
Welcome Christopher! So what kind of things are they teaching at Wyotech? Are you closer to the beginning, or the end of your schooling?0
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Tim - Does the 47' run and what do you think they will be asking for it roughly? Also the 1950 C6 coupe sounds really tempting....
I see, thank you for telling me about the cars you have and correcting me from what I thought they were. What exactly does SWB and LWB stand for, I never heard of that abbreviation before.
Roger - Since they are made of cardboard, I think mine have long since rotted away.
Thanks Rick for the Welcome! I am on the facebook page too.
Bent metal - I just started my Wyotech Program in September so I am right at the beginning. At the moment we are learning MIG Welding, oxyacetylene cutting, how to use hammers and dollies, how to apply body filler and sand it, removing car interiors, and removing body panels. As of the next phase I am going to learn how to section the structure of the car, removing quarter panels, re skinning doors just to name a few. In the new year in refinishing I'll learn everything to do with preparing and painting cars and in my final two phases i'll learn TIG welding, shaping sheet metal, using the english wheel etc.0 -
Tim,
I feel the exact same way, about saving as many of these cars as possible. I am interested in possibly buying the 50' coupe if the price is right. I also really like the look of the 1939 Hudson pickup, but those are hard to find (As for the 47' pickup, I'd prefer something that ran at the moment, since i could use it down here in Cali). Thanks for explaining SWB and LWB. Do you know where I can get a good deal on "The History of Hudson" by Don Bulter? I found it on Amazon for $100 new but there must be a better place. I do have "An Illustrated History - Hudson Automobiles" by Patrick Foster but it does not really cover everything and I would love to know more about Hudson Automobiles.
Could I contact you in the new year when I'll be removing the dash for the pictures from the Pacemaker?
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One thought on getting into the "map box" as I used to call it -- without utterly destroying what's left of your cardboard box (and adding yet one more thing to your giant to-do list):
try drilling a hole in the bottom of the box with an electric or hand drill, maybe 1/4" in diameter, centered on the button of the door. Then take a 6-7" straight length of rigid wire (maybe the gauge of a good-sized paper clip, or thicker) and bend a sort of L-hook on the top end. Insert the hook end through the hole and raise the wire, trying to snag the latch which comes out of the button. You want to snag the latch and pull it downward (it's spring loaded, if it's like the one on my '37) so that it no longer grabs the underside of the keeper, which is (I think) at the top of the glove box opening. If you're successful the door will open and you will only have a rather small hole in the bottom of your glove box, so you can deal with replacing the glove box at a future time and not now (when you have bigger fish to fry).
I do not guarantee the results of my suggestion, of course, since I do not know the Step Down glove boxes intimately, but it might be worth a try (if no one offers a better idea!).0 -
Not sure ,but if you take the trunk lock and door locks out and have a locksmith key them.Guessing $50.00., A good chance that one of them will fit your jocky box? Also on the head liner bows, I just instaledl a head liner in my 54 Hornet and like yours all the bows were out of there keepers and the paint marks were all gone. I just got them all back in as I thought that they should be and it is not too confussing after some messing around with them. Do not do as I did and put too much tention on the rear bows when afixing to the rear window opening, because it will cause the front of the head liner to have more wrinkling that you will want to have to deal with. You will understand when you get to this?0
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Thanks Jon for the advice but I really think mine dash boxes are too far gone, but I have not yet had a chance to really look under the dash due to a lack of time. They could still be there, but I am not going to hold my breathe until I check.
I am definitely going to consider that, since I am going to need a new set of keys for the car since I do not have any. As for the bows, I left the rear bow in the car, I was able to remove all the other ones.
Tim - I want to remove the dash from the car since I am going to do a Factory restoration (minus the fabric on the seats, headliner and carpet... I want to change those) for my Hudson. I also do not know the condition of the wiring harness and I would prefer to replace it instead of using the original 63 year old one.
Do you know anything else of the 50' Hudson coupe near you?0 -
If you can see rust through on the outside of the rocker, I'd be willing to bet it's going to need rust repair on the frame (for lack of a better word), underneath. Right in line with the front of the door or so, I'd guess. Maybe a project just right for a Wyo-tech student.
pretty typical repair0 -
Tim - Rust for me is not too big of a deal, it just means it may take a little bit longer (a few more months of body work) before I get the car back on the road. I am going to private message you with my email so you could send me the few pictures you have.
Bent Metal - I'm not too worried the corrosion but I will definitely make a list of all the structure and body panels which need either partial or full replacement. Also the more I get into my education I am less worried about these factors, more just wondering where I can rent the proper tools to make the metal work a lot easier.
Rick - Of course! I checked Ebay today and there was one listed for $49.99 used. I'd prefer a new copy personally but I am going to keep on shopping around.0 -
Uh, I just looked up Butlers book on Amazon.com. There are a couple for sale, but at high prices. One is priced at $3,999.00 new!!! Say what!! Alibris.com has a couple in the $30 to $45 range.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN
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Not meaning to be an opportunist; but, I would be willing to let my Butler's go for (keep in mind that I bought it new and the only sticky pages are where I have fallen in love with the car or cars on a particular page--OK, most of the pages) ...ler's say, $3,990.00 as a fair price? That is a nine buck discount.... By the way, they seem to show up now and then for a reasonable price....0
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I've seen Butlers book with a red cover and I've seen one with a blue cover. Maybe the red was the original and the blue was the reprint - maybe??
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
I had one that was a white cover ,
Roger0 -
Tim - Thank you! I am really looking forward to getting back home where I can apply what I have learn in College to my Hudson at home. Hopefully I get it done in my time frame, so I can drive her down to the US for one of NW chapter runs.
Alex, Brownie, Rick, Roger - Thanks for all the information on the book. I'll refine my search and get myself a used copy. As for the color of the covers, Rick explained it earlier. Blue was published in 1982 and the Red cover in 1992 by Crestline.
as for that 3,999.00 book is probably a mistake in the sellers part, they probably wanted it to be starting out at 39.99 .0 -
DocHubler - you are correct on the purple cover. I was thinking blue - maybe because Memphis is home to the blues, more or less.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
DocHubler: I understand that is how they made the dash pattern .And in one of my books there is a factory photo of a man removing a dash from the press. And it has the wood grain on it allready. A testament to what you describe .
What I cant imagine is how they managed to do it and get a glass smooth finish on the dash?
You would think the press dies would mar the surface of the woodgrain,
Roger0 -
Try abebooks.com and do a search. I found one there just now for $36 not including postage. Bruce0
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I've searched Abebooks twice with no luck. Would you be able to send a me a link Brumac?
Heh, the more and more you all are telling me what the book goes into detail about just makes me want to find one for a decent price as soon as possible.0 -
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