First project car!
Hey guys getting my first project car on Saturday. It's a 1949 Hudson Commodore 6 all original Georgia car never been restored for a steal at $1000. Is actually in great shape. It's all there and minimum rust and no rot. I'm only 16 so I'm gonna be here often for questions!! It was running 3 years ago but has been sitting since... My question (for now lol) is what steps should i take to be able to start this beast up? Should I change oil/ fuel? Stuff like that. And please be specific
I can't wait to get some experience in the auto field! (I'm not a total automotive noob btw). Thanks a bunch guys!!! I'll post pics on Saturday!

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Welcome!!
Sounds like a great project car. I won't comment on your question, there are many other people on here who know more about that kind of stuff than I. But I will say, don't take it apart and get overwhelmed. Get her running, like your doing, and drive her around and enjoy the ride.
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Thanks bent metal!0
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Hey Frankcaputo24gmailcom, Welcome to the forum. You'll get lots of good advise here. Just ask away. Sounds like you're on the right track already. Start with changing the old gas. If it hasn't run in a few years, I would suggest dropping the oil pan and doing a good cleaning. You can check the condition of the engine at the same time. Any history from the previous owner is always good. I would also suggest joining the Hudson Essex Terraplane Club. You'll get an award wining magazine with info on restoration and venders with parts for sale. Also local chapters with people that can help. Looking forward to pictures. Good luck.
Gene Birdsall0 -
The first thing is to drain the gas tank and put about 10 gallons of new gas in, then add STA_BIL, follow can directions. Un hook gas line at carb, put the line in a quart bottle and spin engine till gas comes out and check color and any dirt. When clean, connect back to carb, spray some starter fluid into carb, but not while engine is turning over. It should start and run. Good idea to change motor oil first, crankcase holds 7 quarts on oil change and 8 if filter is also changed. Good way to start, Walt.0
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Wow thanks guys!! I wouldn't have though of any of that, I will certainly give all that a try come Saturday!! I can't contain my excitement!0
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Well if it was running that recently it may have old gas in the tank. There is a drain plug in the bottom to let it out but its an odd size. 5/16 as I recall , I use a piece of tool steel from my lathe and a adjustable wrench.
Before you try to start it see if the motor will turn ,if belt is good and tight just pulling on it should do.
If it moves thats good of course ,then drain out the oil and pay attention to what comes out. If anything odd or nasty or milky looking comes out you need to take the pan off. If it just looks like used oil and runs out nice and quick go ahead and refill.
Then use a air hose and blow off the top of the motor ,clean all around the spark plugs real good. Then take each one out one at a time and pour a little ATF ot Marvel Mystry Oil in each hole. Reinstal each plug and then you can proceded to check for spark and gas and attempt to start it without too much fear of causeing damage.
There are folks that say you need to pull the pan off before trying to start a "Barn Find". In your case that is not easy on a stepdown. I prefer to see what I have a go from there - But thats me pull the pan if you want to make sure its not all full of crap.
If it was running 3 years ago it probably had modern detergent oil in it so I wouldnt worry too much,
Roger0 -
WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF HUDSONING WE ARE GLAD TO HAVE YOU YOU WILL FIND EVERY ONE IS OUT TO HELP JUST ASK
HUDSONLY
PAULARGETYPE0 -
It's a three on the tree, Im not sure if it has O/D. And thanks everyone for the advice! I'll be working on it all day Saturday!!0
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Welcome to the Hudson community! Is your 49' Hudson Commodore 6 a sedan or coupe?
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If it has overdrive it will have what looks like a "Vent Knob" under the dash and to the right of the steering column. And there would be a small switch noticeable in the floor under the gas pedal. Another giveaway is underneath a big solenoid on the side of the transmission allong with another control device.
Roger0 -
Frank (?):
Welcome to the fellowship of crazy Hudson enthusiasts! At $1,000, it sounds like you got a bargain!
Amen to the suggestions you've been given by our goodly crew, including:
1). Drain oil, drop the pan and give it a thorough cleaning before putting in new oil. I am sure you really, really want to get this thing running (I haven't forgotten what it's like to be sixteen!) but you could really ruin the engine if the pan is full of filthy oil with contaminants and junk that could clog the oil passages in the engine.
2). Drain the gas and get some new gas in there (this stuff is so bad now that it can go bad over a winter....let alone three or four years).
3). Join the H-E-T
4). Change the Hudsonite in the clutch (especially if the clutch behaves weirdly once you get the car going). As has been said, the corks in the clutch may stick, but this can be remedied without major surgery -- get back to us if you have a problem. Hudsonite is still available but you can also substitute ATF in a pinch (the folks here can tell you which ATF is best).
5). Remove, examine, gap and clean (if necessary) the spark plugs.
To these ideas I would add a few of my own:
1). Make sure you have a good 6-volt battery. If the starter seems sluggish (and because the car hasn't run in 3 years) the battery may be bad. There are several companies still making 6-volt batteries so don't grab the first one you see. Get one with a good rating for CCA (cold cranking amps). In the high 700's is a very good rating.
2). Be SURE to clean off all the battery connections. Take off the ground strap and battery cable and (using a cable cleaning tool) clean both the battery terminals and the ground / cable clamps. You might want to check where the ground strap attaches to the frame, remove that, clean and sand the connection and replace. And note that there will probably be another ground strap, from engine or transmission to the frame. Clean that too. POSITIVE GROUND on these Hudsons.
3). Tell us roughly where you're located because there may be a Hudson owner in your area who would be happy to talk to you / give advice / let you see his/her car.
4). The brakes would be an important thing to look at. Pulling the rear brake drums is more difficult for older cars than newer ones, but we can help you with that.
5). Before you invest too heavily in this car, look very carefully at the perimeter frame in the area of the rear wheel wells. This is the problem area if the car has been left outside or driven in the salt. It can be very, very expensive and time consuming to rebuild the frame and we don't want to see you discover this fact only after you have poured a lot of time and money into the car. If the frame is in GOOD condition, you don't have to worry that it will eventually rust; you can sand and paint it so it won't (and of course you're going to keep the car under cover....right?)
6). Do NOT immediately start taking the car apart with the idea of restoring it. This is a mistake that a lot of guys make when they have just acquired an old car. Five years later the car is still in pieces, taking up space in the garage, and no closer to getting on the road! Just get it running safely and have fun with it. You can decide how to "improve" it later.
Have fun but don't neglect your studies in favor of the car! (You will need to get good grades to get a good job, so you will make LOTS of money to pour into this Hudson, LOL!)0 -
Frankiec
Let us know where you are located, maybe we can get a couple of local chapter members to come over and give you a hand some weekend.
John0 -
Frankiec I've been where you are. I was 19 (34 now) when I got my first Hudson for a whoping $1300. You're lucky you foud one in that ball park these days. Anyways. All the advice above is sound. 3 reasons a car won't run.... not getting gas. Not getting spark. Or not enough compression. If all those things are present she has to run, even if it runs badly. If you get it running and go through the brakes ect. Then my advise is register it and just drive it. doesn't matter if it needs paint or interior work. All that stuff you can fix up as you go but if you get it running DRIVE IT. If you get it running tune it up, make it safe, and then drive it. Also remember she won't perform like a modern car so be prepared to muscle it around a little when driving because it doesn't have power steering, power brakes, or I'm guessing seat belts. If you've never driven a car of that vintage before it will be intimidating at first but once you're used to it you will love being surrounded by all that American steel.0
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Lots of good advice here, only thing I might add (and someone may have said it, and I missed it) is after you drain the oil and put new in, and have the sparkplugs out, and have poured a little Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder, use the starter to spin the motor a bit, with the sparkplugs out. Without compression, the motor will spin nicely, and get the oil pump working and everything lubed up with the new oil, for an easier start when you get 'er all back together and the BIG MOMENT has arrived.
You can test for spark at the same time- re-attach a sparkplug to one of the plug wires, and lay the plug on the top of the head. While you're spinning the motor, you should get spark across the bottom of the plug. DON'T grab the wire with your bare hands to re-position it while motor is spinning! The insulation value of old spark plug wires is greatly overrated. Don't ask me how I know! LOL
Welcome to the Hudson fraternity- lots of knowledgeable guys on here, and even better, they'll answer your questions without making you feel like you're an idiot.0 -
Yes - he is right about running the motor with the plugs out . Thats one step I left out, that will run the oil pump and lube all the surfaces, sorry bout that,
Roger0 -
Welcome! You've received a bunch of great advice and I second the advice to not disassemble. In my case, a 53 Hornet, i had to due to frozen motor and previous partial disassembly, but it is a slow road. Have fun, and you'll never find a more helpful group than on this forum and in this club
Dave0 -
Alright guys, today's the day! I'll post pictures as soon as I get it home. And wow thanks Jon! I think yours was the most extensive and specific. Couple questions: what type of oil does this car prefer? It has the straight 6 in it and its the original engine. Also where could I find parts for it? Like oil filter, brake pads and rotors, Hudsonite for the clutch, etc. I tried calling local auto parts stores and the only one that has something similar to what I need is 30 miles away and it's for a 54. Would this work for my engine?0
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The thing about buying parts at a part store for the Hudson you have is they probably have thepart they just dont know it. The NAPA 1010 filter fits the filter can (there are other numbers too but cant find my book right now). The 54 Hudson is basicly the same car but a lot of particulars were changed. Like the motor was bigger cubic inch wise but parts like water pump were the same. The undercarrige items like A-arms and shocks would be the same. buying brakes you are best off buying from a club member that has them. There are some that can be made to work from a ford or pontiac. But again Ive misplaced my book right now.
As far as the oil since its sound like you have a filter and it has run recently I would use something like 20-50 GTX. Also cocidering the age it may be a good idea to replace the hoses on the oil filter very soon. Or take it off until you do , they are known to break at the most inopertune times,
Roger0 -
Found my swaps book , oil filter numbers you can ask for : FRAM C-3,C-3P ;AC #P203 ;WIX #PC-10,CW-10 ;PUROLATOR #P70FR ;LEE # L-70FR. Or ask for one that fit a Mercedes 200d/220d0
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To summarize: there are three ways to get Hudson parts:
1. From present-day commercial suppliers like NAPA, AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. -- you MUST verify the interchange with Hudson guys, do not rely on the guy at the parts counter. (No, the brake shoes do NOT interchange with Ford even though they look identical.) And anyway, that parts guy has never heard of a Hudson so won't be interested in helping you. There are plenty of parts still available 'cause they interchange with more popular makes but ask us first, we can give you the correct interchange or part number.
2. Through Hudson vendors, and there are a good number of them. This is why you need to join the Club and start getting the magazine. And you need to check the Club's website, there is all sorts of information there but Club members can sign in and get more information than just casual browsers. The website is http://www.hetclub.org/
3. Stumble onto them at antique car / street rod flea markets, antique stores, yard sales, estate auctions and so forth. Again, you need to know parts numbers. (You will discover a box of brand new condensers at a flea market, marked down to $2 because the seller only has the part number and doesn't know what it fits; this is your chance to save big bucks, 'cause you happen to know the manufacturer's number for your condenser.)
Start right now: buy a small loose-leaf notebook you can carry around, assemble a book of information on your specific Hudson. Pages for engine part numbers (spark plug numbers, condenser numbers, etc.), types of oil to use, names & addresses of people who sell Hudson parts, and so on. Put your name, address and phone number on the first page so when (not IF) you accidentally leave it somewhere, you have a chance of getting it back. It will be invaluable.
It's an adventure, a treasure hunt. Like a video game but much more fun 'cause it's real life.0 -
Thanks! And it looks like this guy I'm buying it from is jerking me around about transporting it. Looks like ill get it tomorrow hopefully0
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When some one says certain brakes "Fit" Hudson they generaly mean they made them work. I have a cam grinder and that is required on most.
Hope he gets it to you soon ,
Roger0 -
Just a thought-and a pet complaint of mine. I have spent a lot of years working on old cars. I have at times completed every part of a restoration from a ground up frame. Today I like the term work smarter not harder. Brakes are an example. There is a local brake store near me that now does my brakes. I take a car to them and it comes back with a job well done each time. We just recently did the brakes on my 28 Essex. I traded the rearend out last year and it now has a Mecury Bobcat rear end from 76-80. Parts were not available and much of it was built from their experience base amd modifying in house parts. They did my 36 British built Hudson from in house parts. Their rate is reasonable ($45 per hour plus parts) I have one car that they worked on 12 years ago and they have maintained it since the first visit at no cost; and, I think this is very reasonable way to go.0
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That's great advice for us guys who have now reached a state where we have less time than we do money, but Frank (Frankie?) is 16 and -- if he's in the same boat as we were, at his age -- he's probably trying to make every nickel count.
Wherever someone can find an expert to do the job quickly and correctly at a reasonable rate, then (as you say) he'd do better to have a pro do it, rather than spend three times as much time to do it himself and then possibly get it wrong. But when funds are limited (such as when you're 16) you may not have that choice. And anyway, there is a certain satisfaction in skinning your knuckles, making some mistakes, and finally getting it done by yourself. Also, this is really the way to learn how to do stuff.
So, in a few cases Frank may indeed be better off to save up some money and have a pro do certain specialty stuff, but for most of his work it wouldn't be bad for him to try it himself (with our invaluable advice, LOL!).0 -
All else fails... Take it apart, clean it till it shines, put it back together. Been lucky, that's worked on several carbs (mind the gaskets!) a couple distributors, and recently my old fuel pump I thought was buggered. Haven't bought any sort of carb kit or rebuild kit yet, though one of my accelerator pump fixes isn't 100%. Fixed several float pinholes with JB Weld.
In addition to cleaning the oil pan, spend some time flushing the coolant system. If you can, pull the water pump and water tube and clean the sediment out as best you can.0 -
Grim You are right about carbs , most problems anymore is craped up insides from old gas. I have a favorite carb cleaner that works wonders as long as nothing is realy bad inside. It will eat the old gas out and off you go ,
Roger0 -
http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm - the HET Club also has a regular paper library in the custody of John O'halloran.
One of the best pieces of advice given here is to get it running and driveable. THEN start considering a resto. Until you drive it out of the driveway it's just a big dead piece of iron. Once you get it driveable you'll be anxious to get it looking nice. One step at a time and don't bite of to big a piece at a time.
Enjoy.
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
You will be surprised with the quality of the car you have bought. That is why the clean it and put back together works out so well on these cars. You will find all the fasteners will come apart with a little work and time. They generaly dont break off like a brand-x car will. I use ATF or Marvel Mystry Oil as a rust penatrant if needed . Dont get to exited if the brakes are down quite often refilling the master cylinder and bleeding is all that is needed. The leak may never be obvious till much later. Also the car has "A Back-Up Brake System" that if adjusted properly applies the rear cable brakes if the hydrolic's fail. Somewhat elaborate mechanism but quite effective,
Roger
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Let us know where you are, there may be some local Hudson Nut, who may be able to help or at least sympathize with you! LOL
Dave in Fl0 -
Now Im wondering - wheres the Hudson? Did your deal fall thru?0
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