Hudson Towing Capacity?

commodorecollector
commodorecollector Senior Contributor
edited November 2012 in HUDSON
Hi All,
I am just wondering does anyone know the load capacity Hudson? 41-49 preferably to see how much of a difference there is between pre-war, post-war and step-down models.

Thanks,
«1

Comments

  • 37 CTS
    37 CTS Senior Contributor
    I have never seen any published data on this. I remember a Hornet owner who used his to deliver new house trailers he sold. Back then is not like today where there are specifications on this.
  • hudsontech
    hudsontech Senior Contributor
    It was fairly common practice for stock car drivers/owners to tow their step-down Hudsons using a Hudson pickup (usually 1946-1947 models) to the tracks and not just local - all over the country. Many of these tow trucks had 308's under the hood. The theory was if the 308 in the race car went south they could always yank the engine out of the truck and use it in the car. Whole different picture back-in-the-day.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    I towed my 1950 Commodore with my 1951 Hornet (stick), as it had a hitch built in. No problems, could barely feel it.
  • My 51 Commodore came with a hitch, but I left it off when I restored it.
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    would i have to worry about damaging my c47' H if i am pulling a 24 foot trailer crub weight 3300-3500 lbs with a 1000 lb load?
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    it has a small block chevy, don't know what type of transmission.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    edited November 2012
    As Ken said, we did tow a 36' mobile home with our '51 Hornet, but the engine was a low mileage '55 Olds 98 with Dual-range Hydramatic, and the hitch was a special type that put the trailer tongue weight directly on the car's rear axle rather than on the bumper or frame (there's an extensive previous thread dealing with this type of hitch).
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    park, do you remember the thread title? I would like to book mark it so I could reference it whenever I may need to.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    Chris, I don't recall the thread title. Like this one, it started out about trailer towing in general, Maybe someone else can recall how it's listed.
  • TOM-WA-
    TOM-WA- Senior Contributor
    IF YOU DO A SEARCH ON : PULLING AN AIRSTREAM TRAILER WITH A HUDSON YOU WILL FIND LOTS OF DISCUSSION
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    edited November 2012
    Found it, thanks Tom.
    http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/161203/pulling-a-airstream-trailer-with-a-hornet#Item_51

    Park - Who made that hitch for you? Where could I get one? Or what are the specifications of it so I could fabricate one myself.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    It was a factory-made item at the time, advertised in most of the mobile home or trailering magazines. I don't recall the small details --- remember this was fifty years ago!
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    Park - I see, that just means it will be a bit harder to find. No worries maybe someone here would be able to help track one of these down.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    edited November 2012
    Well, I'll give my opinion based on a lot of miles in Hudsons and a lot of trailering miles, but not together.

    I would not pull a trailer with the overdrive engaged. #1, it would tend to lug the engine, and #2 would severely limit the engine braking effect. Splashers in particular don't like to be lugged.

    With Hudson running gear of your vintage, you have basically a 4:56 and a 4:11 choice in the rear end. The 3 speed with either one would handle a camping trailer in reasonable terrain, at reasonable speeds with either the 212 or the 254 engine.

    The engines would be 'happy' at 40 - 50 with the 4:56 and at 45 - 55 with the 4:11. This would keep you off the interstates of course but would be cool for relatively local camping. Remember, in the old days this was the average speed on any road.

    Lets face it, if you want to run the interstates with a camper, you need modern engines with rugged frames and running gear. Minivans and SUVs and most pickups are rated for 3500lbs. and up. A 262 or 308 would give you enough power but I'd use the GM Hydromatic and the Dana/Spicer rear end to get rid of the tapered bearings we can't find anymore and for readilly available tranny parts and rear end gears. Your mileage is gonna be in the range of 8-9. You can get around 12 with a modern minivan/SUV or pickup.

    Even with modern equipment you gotta be careful. One of our Hudson friends rolled his Ford 350 diesel truck towing an Airstream a couple of years ago when he got into cross winds.

    A good Draw-Tite type hitch that reaches 2-3 feet under the frame with 3 bolts or so on each side would tie it to a good frame, and the use of a head with adjustable load leveling bars would transfer some of the tongue weight from the rear axle. It would also give you an adjustable sway bar. The old style hitches that bolted directly to the axle tried to do some of that but had other issues..like poking holes in your gas tank. (seen that)

    You need to consider braking and lights. Trailers are 12V so you need a conversion of some sort. You NEED those trailer brakes.

    I would go with tandem axles on the trailer to minimize sway, and to have 3 trailer tires on the road in case of a flat.

    Get good big mirrors so when those trucks sneak up on ya doin 75 you're ready for the push and sway you're gonna get.

    Can an old Hudson do it? Yup. Harold Gilbert, author of 'Looking Back' had most of his old cars hauled home with his friend Walt's 49 Hudson pulling a car trailer. But that was the old days. By the way, Walt owned a 29 Dual Cowl, in midwestern NYS. Where is it?

  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    On the axle-mounted hitch, one negative I encountered with the Hudson was that when the normal whoosh of pressure from a passing semi hit the trailer, there was more than the usual amount of sway because the hitch was "steering" the rear axle. Used that same hitch with a '55 Buick, and the more firmly-positioned axle of the Buick minimized this action.
  • hudsontech
    hudsontech Senior Contributor
    I agree with Uncle J on the use of the old (used to be) 2-lane highways, U S 40, U S 50, etc. Most of these old roads have been upgraded to 4-lane, curves have been straightend and hills either by-passed or fitted with truck lanes on the right. So what if you're just cruising along at 45 or 50 - sit back and enjoy the scenery.
    Some advantages of the old U S highways: no, or very damn few, 18 wheelers to start with. Been down to the San Antone area from Memphis a few times in recent years and have taken U S 79 most of the way, into Austin. Good road, light traffic. I've also driven U S 70 between Memphis and Little Rock many times - again light traffic (everybody's beating their brains out over on I-40) and a good 2-lane road. And you get to see some nice scenery and attractions you miss on the Interstate.
    I'm talking here mostly west of the Mississippi. New England is a lousy area to run 2-lanes - towns tend to run into each other so you're going to see traffic lights every 20 feet - or so it seems. U S 20 is (or used to be) a good east-west run between Albany and Buffalo - have driven that a few times.
    Of course at my age of 75 the old 2-lanes were all there were to drive when I was growing up in the 40's and 50's - and even into the 60's when I drove over most of the country going to different Navy bases. And I'll state a fact here and now - those old 2-lanes could be murder. But as I say most have been upgraded and west of Ole Missy they are running flat and straigh, mostly, between the river and the western mountains.

    Hudsonly,
    Alex Burr
    Memphis, TN
  • duncan
    duncan Expert Adviser
    Pulling a airstream with a Hornet my inicial post Ray
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    I would still like to find one of those 'old' style of hitches that is mounted directly to the rear axle, since I am only going to be pulling the trailer once next year back home. After that, i'll be using something else.

    how hard is it to convert to 12V? and then back to 6V? Or would I be able to do a partial conversion to accommodate the trailer?

    As for the trailer, I am looking into getting a 24 foot enclosed car hauler in the latter part of the new year. Which has tandem axles and electric brakes.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    Do you need 12v only for trailer lights? You could change them out for 6v bulbs.
  • I think the only insurmountable thing would be the electric brakes. Unless you could get a big enough power inverter to make them operate,
    Roger
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Well, you could put a 12 V battery in the trunk, and use a couple of headlight relays. Pick em with the 6V and they would carry the 12V to where you needed it.

    Simpler yet, just put the 12V battery on the passenger floor and run a wire with a toggle switch for the lights, and a momentary toggle to apply the brakes when ya need em.
  • I dont know Josh , you almost need the variable controller. My 22 foot car hauler has brakes on one axle. And even with a Hudson on there I have to be carfull how I set it or they lock up.
    Roger
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Ah, you're right, you need to modulate it. So just hook the 12v battery up to the controller and it'll work from the foot pedal and also by hand when you want to just use the trailer brake, like when it wants to fishtail or Godforbid jack knife.
  • Thats true ,a 12 volt battery in the trunk charged up and just for the brakes. Using a seperate brake lite switch hooked thru the controller - yeah it could work. And you could put a solar charger in the back window to keep the battey up ,
    Roger
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    you have lost me Roger and Josh. I still have plenty of time to think about this and figure out a way it will work. Of course I would prefer to find the old style hitch since all the new ones would require me to modify the original frame, which I do not want to do. Once I got the trailer home I want my 47' to be able to a presentable show car.
    Lots of good points though, just I do not understand completely.
  • Well we asume you have 6 volts in your Hudson and as far as I know there were no 6 volt trailer brakes. That is the issue we were trying to work around,
    Roger
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    edited November 2012
    There were certainly 6v trailer brakes and manual controllers in the fifties, so a vintage controller might be found ... maybe from one of the long-established makers of same, such as Stewart-Warner.
  • Well now thats a possabillity if controls and actual 6 volt brake coils could still be found. I have to admit Ive never seen them but that dont mean they didnt have them. I always thought they used a vacume unit - hydrovac on old trailers. Those Ive seen before ,my brother has an old trailer that still has one on it last time I looked. Not operating - electrics were added years ago but they left the hydrovac hanging on the frame,
    Roger
  • duncan
    duncan Expert Adviser
    I just googled stewart warner 6 volt brake controler and found 2 on ebay motors.
    Hudsonly Ray
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    edited November 2012
    ...and now for a brief visual interlude in the discussion....

    Hudsons have always pulled trailers, as witness this lovely set-up:

    image

    (That's a Curtiss-Wright Aerocar land yacht behind a '28 or '29 Hudson. Here's what it looked like inside...)

    image

    (Many thanks to the Bentley Historical Library, University of Michigan.)
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