Drum Brake question
I'm sure this is an easy one...
I have been unable to solve a problem with my 50 Pacemaker brakes. The front right brake grabs and locks, so I have been checking and double checking the assembly and adjustment. My question is which shoe goes toward the front of the car, the shorter "Primary" or the longer "Secondary" ?
The Hudson service manual does not differentiate between Primary and Seconday shoes, so I googled drum brakes. I was very supprised to find different instructions. The "engineering" type web sites that describe the braking process seem to claim the the shorter Primary shoe should always be forward, while I found a few other DIY type sites that insist the opposite... I tend to believe the first, but I figured who better to ask. I would have expected to find only one answer. Another interesting note, one of the more detailed sites specifically noted and illustrated that the seconday spring must always be installed on top of the primary. I found only one site that mentioned this.
Anyway, the wifes away so I got my Friday night Hudson fix...
Matt
I have been unable to solve a problem with my 50 Pacemaker brakes. The front right brake grabs and locks, so I have been checking and double checking the assembly and adjustment. My question is which shoe goes toward the front of the car, the shorter "Primary" or the longer "Secondary" ?
The Hudson service manual does not differentiate between Primary and Seconday shoes, so I googled drum brakes. I was very supprised to find different instructions. The "engineering" type web sites that describe the braking process seem to claim the the shorter Primary shoe should always be forward, while I found a few other DIY type sites that insist the opposite... I tend to believe the first, but I figured who better to ask. I would have expected to find only one answer. Another interesting note, one of the more detailed sites specifically noted and illustrated that the seconday spring must always be installed on top of the primary. I found only one site that mentioned this.
Anyway, the wifes away so I got my Friday night Hudson fix...
Matt
0
Comments
-
Well about all I can tell you is I always put the longer one to the front, and I’ve never had any problems. I do not think mixing them up would cause the drum to lock-up. I might think of switching the new shoes to the other side and see if the problem follows the shoes to that side. I’ve never heard that theory on the springs before, did they explain why?0
-
RG53Hornet wrote:Well about all I can tell you is I always put the longer one to the front, and I’ve never had any problems. I do not think mixing them up would cause the drum to lock-up. I might think of switching the new shoes to the other side and see if the problem follows the shoes to that side. I’ve never heard that theory on the springs before, did they explain why?
The short (primary) shoe goes toward the front of the vehicle. That in itself is probably not causing the problem. Does it pull that way when braking? I would look to the other (left ) side for a sticking wheel cylinder or a bad brake hose, restricting fluid to the left side- if you haven't replace them. I have done brake work on older vehicles that have had simalar problems. Are the top anchor pins adjusted correctly ? Check thes items and good luck
Jim0 -
when braking keep in mind the weight of the car wants to continue its forward movement, thus the larger shoe to the rear of hub to accept the urge of weight, bulling is usually a restricted flex brake hose on the opisite side allowing the pulling side to do most of the work, this is not always the case, a drum that has been turned to far will warp and cause pulling, turn drum if enough metal is available or else change the drum. we weork on Hudsons daily, BILL ALBRIGHT0
-
I had the same problem with my 54 Hornet Special sedan, except it was the left front. I adjusted the brakes utill I think I just about wore the starwheel out, and could not get rid of it completely. Finally I replaced the rubber hoses going to the wheel cylinders. Problem GONE. Always replace both sides when doing this. As Bill said, USUALLY, if it pulls to the right it is the left flex hose and the right if it pulls to the left. Either way, replace them both...
Bob Hickson0 -
I spent some time on the brakes today. I noticed the return spring for the secondary shoe was streched and deformed. A trip to NAPA and $7 later I had a complete new set of springs. I replaced the springs (both sides) and re-adjusted, problem gone. I still would like to replace the hoses, but need to find a source. NAPA says they are unavailable. Anyone know of a good source for them?
As far as the arrangement of the springs I mentioned above, I could not find any explanation why the primary spring should be installed first. The only logical argument I can make is then it becomes a standard assembly process and eliminates any assembly errors or differences between techs.
Thanks to everyone for the ideas and assistance,
Matt0 -
I got Mine from A&D Auto Parts in North Royalton Ohio. Ph 440-237-9300. Only difference was that, on the original parts, where they go thru the bracket on the frame the fitting is round and the replacement hose end has an end that has flats so you can hold it with a wrench. I had to round the corners slightly to get the fitting to go thru the bracket. No problem.
Bob0 -
Brake hoses are available from Advance Auto Parts (may still be Discount in some areas of Fla) Part # H19015. Front wheel cylinder #s are W14718 (L) W14718 (R)
they are not in the computer system They are in the Tru-Torque paper catalog, which I have right in front of me as I write this. They will probably be a one to three day order, although possible may be in stock at some larger stores.
Remember I work for Advance and I got mine from my store,--in stock. Hope this helps.
I should have thought of bad return springs myself. If the are weak it allows the brakes to apply to quick and also not release fully I am always advising the customers of this fact when they buy brake shoes.
Hudsonly
Jim0 -
I'm curious (don't have a StepDown) but would the above brake hoses and wheel cylinders fit all StepDowns 48-54? I'd like to write this down for future reference.0
-
Jon, The brake hoses are the same for 48-54 stepdowns. Rear brake hose # is H84517 Tru Torque brand, which I believe use basic Bendix numbering system.The wheel cylinders are for SWB models only.
Hudsonly
Jim0 -
That's good to know. Usually Advance & Auto zone aren't too helpful with the older stuff... There is a Advance (Discount) Auto Parts warehouse less than 30 minutes from my house. They should have them in stock. Thanks for referencing the parts numbers, that will definately help.
Matt0 -
Thanks, Jim!0
-
Hate to admit it, but you are right about some help at Zone and Advance, and other places to. I work with some at my store (one is asst manager) and if it ain't in the computer we don't have it.
I usually always try to go the 'extra mile' to help a customer, especially if he is a car nut and looking for parts for his classic/antique car. You just need to find someone that is willing to help.
Jim0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- 37K All Categories
- 106 Hudson 1916 - 1929
- 19 Upcoming Events
- 91 Essex Super 6
- 28.6K HUDSON
- 560 "How To" - Skills, mechanical and other wise
- 993 Street Rods
- 150 American Motors
- 174 The Flathead Forum
- 49 Manuals, etc,.
- 78 Hudson 8
- 44 FORUM - Instructions and Tips on using the forum
- 2.8K CLASSIFIEDS
- 599 Vehicles
- 2.1K Parts & Pieces
- 77 Literature & Memorabilia
- Hudson 1916 - 1929 Yahoo Groups Archived Photos