Studs vs Bolts for cylinder head
Thought this article would be good to read as this subject comes up often --
http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92024/engine-studs-understanding-the-advantages-of-using-studs-vs-bolts-and-tips-on
http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92024/engine-studs-understanding-the-advantages-of-using-studs-vs-bolts-and-tips-on
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Comments
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Use studs on a Hudson and after 15 or 20 thousand miles watch what you have to do to remove the head. Use bolts and just lift it off. Walt.0
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Bolts work great on a splasher too. 47 Pickup driven almost every day in season and no problems.0
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Note from Rudy Bennett-
Ken-u-Tex is right on, We have been doing the same over the past 40 years or so and it has worked just fine ( you dont have to drill out the holes in our head or Clifford head as they are big enough already)
A word of Caution,some of the iron heads 232-262-308 have porous castings in the bolt holes and we have seen some to be ruined because drilling the holes a little larger will open them up and water will leak around the bolts or studs.
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If you have studs , need to remove the head and the engine is still running, Remove the nuts and start it up. Works on Model a Fords.. LOL0
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If you have studs , need to remove the head and the engine is still running, Remove the nuts and start it up. Works on Model a Fords.. LOL
WHATT???0 -
Old timers way of popping a stuck head gasket loose .. .. ..
Roger0 -
O.k., that's what I thought . . . but, I think that's not the brightest idea I've heard in a while.0
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Why not? all it does is pop the gasket loose. It won't "Fly off" LOL. Like Roger said.. it's an old method been used for generations. Beats trying to wedge something under the head and damage something that is critical. I have tried using lifting rings screwed into the spark plug holes. Lifted the engine transmission and all and the darned things still wouldn't budge. There are hole saws made for going over studs but i never had any and they would be expensive I would imagine.0
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My dad told me he once saw someone saw an alloy head in half in an effort to remove it. I dont recall if it was a succsess .. .. ..
I remember reading somplace a little tool you can make if you have a alloy head that has corroded to the studs.
He made a small hole saw out of thinwall stainless steel tube that just fit over the stud. Filed teeth into the bottom of the tube and slowly drilled the gap clear around the studs
Dont recall where I read that ,may have been in the WTN ,
Roger0 -
A very savvy chief engineman I was stationed with had a friend with a 1939 Lincoln with a V-12 engine with aluminum heads. This engine had been around for many years and when they went to do an engine overhaul the heads were, literally, welded to the block. So the chief said back off the head bolts a couple turns and start the engine. Fellow drove it around for over a week with the bolts loose - heads never did break loose. They ended up having to destroy the heads to get them off.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
Tallent, I sure could have used that hole saw trick when I pulled my iron head. The very center head bolt (whose head snapped clean off) had so much carbon and gunk packed around the bolt and in the hole I had to rig up a puller to work it off.
Ah, the tricks you wish you knew...0 -
Yes, neat idea ,seems like he would have needed something like a wood pin inside at the top so you could clamp it in the drill without crushing it . But I dont recall that part ,
Roger0 -
EDM= Electrical Discharge Machine, the toolmaker's savior! And don't forget broken taps, Ken0
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In the shop I used to work we had a atatchment called an Arc-Air for our big welder. Used a carbon rod coated with copper and a blast of 100 psi air. Combined with the power of a 300 amp DC welder turned full power -metal would just vanish.
We used it to remove 6" shrink fit couplings from the shaft by cutting tru the key slot. And the shaft would not even be warm when done,
Roger0
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