Question on the installation of rear fenders for a stepdown

402Bowtie
402Bowtie Member
edited January 2013 in HUDSON
What goes in between the bottom of the fender and the frame? The bottom of fender I believe had a foam seal that went against the frame. What do you guys use when mounting fender on? It looks like this area is where it starts to rust.

Also does the top of fender bolt directly to the metal or do you put something in there like 3M sealer? Thanks for your help!!

Comments

  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    edited January 2013
    At the bottom of the quarters, I recommend not putting any kind of sealant in there. If you do happen to get moisture in that area, it needs to have a place to run out. If it doesn't, you are just creating future rust problems.

    On top of that, and to answer the other part of your question, the bottom of the quarter is basically a "fly-away panel". It doesn't have any bent corners or stiffeners in it. You straighten out that area and make it into a smooth, clean curve by adding the correct thickness of washers behind the quarter panel. This is especially critical on the longer quarters of the 2DR models.

    On TOP of the quarter, originally there was a material called dolphinite, I believe. You can get a product from 3M that is a panel-joint adhesive, or sealer. What works best is have enough of the sealant to ooze out when bolting the quarter in place and then using a small stick with a curve on the end (the small coffee-stirrers work best), you "shape" the sealant once it just starts to set up, but before it dries. Usually, you have to work fairly quickly.

    Lastly, if you have not painted your quarters, I recommend mounting the quarters with the sealant and painting afterwards. Although, most people do not go this route.
  • Glowplug
    Glowplug Expert Adviser
    402Bowtie

    What goes in between the bottom of the fender and the frame? The bottom of fender I believe had a foam seal that went against the frame.

    The original fender installation included a pressed cardboard piece inserted between the fender and the stamped metal unibody frame. The fender fasteners were then inserted through this material. This material had several drain holes along the course of installation. But, the factory engineering apparently did not identify, that during use of the automobile, this material and the drain holes would be attacked by moisture and dust kicked up from the roadways which turned to mud and when it dried captured moisture in the frame and lower fender area. Thus the fender and frame rusted.

    What do you guys use when mounting fender on? It looks like this area is where it starts to rust.

    The fender is meant to be installed with a spacer that continues the length of the bottom opening. Using the a similar material as the factory will allow the fender to be installed and properly aligned, but you will again suffer the same results previous described. Today there are modern materials which do not deteriorate, capture or retain moisture and would allow the proper installation of the fender. Using nylon standoffs at each screw assures the seal material is not pushed out of place. Manufacturer's representation companies like DURACO EXPRESS or stocking companies like McMaster Carr provide these materials at a reasonable. price.

    Also does the top of fender bolt directly to the metal or do you put something in there like 3M sealer?

    Yes, as stated above, during your restoration of the fenders, you will probably note that the fenders appear to have been primered and then fitted to the car body. This is how the car was built and then painted as previously recommeded.

  • PAULARGETYPE
    PAULARGETYPE Senior Contributor
    OLD FARMER I USED A ROLL OF DUM DUM IN BETWEEN MY FENDERS AND BODY ON THE TOP I PAINTED THE CAR IN PARTS RUBBED EVERY THING OUT AND THEN AFTER BOLTING UP THE FENDER WHAT SQUEEZED OUT WE USED A POPSICLE STICK TO JUST SCRAPE OFF THE STUFF THAT SQUEEZED OUT 10 YEARS ALTER IT STILL LOOKS GREAT

    AS FOR THE FILLER PEICE ON THE BOTTOM I USED PLEXIE GLASS IT'S BETTER THAN WOOD AND WILL NEVER ROT OF FALL APART AND WE JUST CUT IT TO FIT AFTER IT WAS ALL INSTALLED I DRILLED HOLES UP AND IN TO IT FOR DRAIN HOLES IT WORKED GOOD

    HERE IS THE PHOTO'S I TOOK OVER THE 3 YEARS IT TOOK TO DO THE CAR THERE OUT OF TIME BUT IF YOU LOOK AT ALL OF THEM YOU WILL GET THE IDEA

    http://hudsonpix.multiply.com/photos/album/1
  • Putting spacers like metal washers, plastic or plexi-glass sounds like this will give the rigidty and contour that is needed but yet let the moisture and dirt run out. Thank you Russ, "Young" Farmer and Paul for your expertise!! That's a great looking convertible you have Paul, especially from what you started with. Russ I have been watching your convertible also, you are doing a fantastic job with a car that was sitting in a river bed!! I have your email Russ. I just need to take the time to type you about mine. Never enough time in a day!!

    Again THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR YOUR EXPERTISE!! MUCH APPRECIATED. Bill
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