308 update, Sunday

Richie
Richie Senior Contributor
edited January 2013 in HUDSON
Well I got the engine mostly apart, I had to go buy another engine stand as one of my sons hadn't returned my old one and it is a 100 mile trip to get it. I found the cam number to be 306344 I believe, the first number is hard to read. I also found the exhaust valves are not magnetic but the intakes valves are. Looking at the crankshaft counter weights it looks like someone cut small areas out with a milling machine. I guess this is for balancing but I haven't seen it done like that before, usually they drill holes in the counter weights.
From underneath the pistons almost look new, the valve springs look to be new as well. I got all the valves out and made a valve holder out of a strip of wood as someone on the forum suggested, works great.
OK, I need some help please-- how do I get the valve springs out ?? Is there a secret way of doing this? There is still a lot of tension on the springs and the retainer is over the lifter so I can't pry it out. I tried to compress it enough to slide it by the top of the lifter but no luck doing that. I'll take the crank and rods out tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any comments. Richie.

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    There is a special looks something like the attatched photo. Also a tool for the keeper nut that you can do without. The spring cmpressor - no way to do it with out. You can find these on Ebay or from a tool place. Last one I bought from a Matco tool guy out of his truck . He didnt even know what it was ,
    Roger
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    The Tool Tallent R shows is what I use too. It takes a little pratice though. To remove 'keeper' (locks) use a tiny screw driver. To re install the keepers I have a Tool but find using heavy Lube inside Keeper with fingers works better. Back off the lifter Bolt as far as possible. I made a 'fork' to get H/Performance springs over the Lifter. They will pry over lifter.

    Make sure you Mark the Main Caps...
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I guess its worth mentioning they make special open end wrench's for the adjustment nuts on the lifers too. Long - maybe 12-13 inch and very thin maybe 1/8 inch thick. Very handy when adjusting ,not so much for removal maybe but -- -- --
    Roger
    Roger
  • Richie
    Richie Senior Contributor
    Roger, Ol racer, I have a tool like that or very similar to it and tried to use it. I can compress the spring away from the lifter some what but by then it is pretty strong and I'm afraid if I try prying outward it will come out like a bullet. I'll try doing it again tomorrow. Thanks, Richie.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    You are correct ,the tool is under a lot of strain . My new one broke ,went back to using an old well made one , just be carefull . Put some goggles on if you think its going to come after you,
    Roger
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    Instead of the valve spring compressor to pop the springs out, I use a tie-rod end removal "fork." Works great.
  • Richie
    Richie Senior Contributor
    Thanks Park, I'll give it a try. Richie.
  • Richie
    Richie Senior Contributor
    Park, you are right, it worked great, all springs are out. Thanks for the tip. Richie.
  • Richie
    Richie Senior Contributor
    edited January 2013
    I got the cam out yesterday along with some other things. Can anyone tell me what the cam lobes should measure ? Looking at the head and top of the block it looks like an engine with lots of miles on it, but looking at the pistons from underneath, the pistons look new. The water distribution tube looks good. The cam is a stock one for a 53 308, but it is a 55 block. Thanks.Richie
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    On my'' 54'',''308'' If memory serves me was .356......Measure what it is known and subtract this from .356 and if it is more than .006 of wear then i would re-profile it. From looking at your photo it looks to be just this guessing. Let me know if you need imformation on a good cam man as I used a place in Dallas texas that is said to be one of about 6 remaining men in the country that do this well.Cost was something like $135.00 and three weeks turn -a-round.If you want a new one good hunting as I came up with Zero new ones but all sorts of used ones and a few 7x cams of various grinds.There are better Hudsonites at this cam issue out there,poke them with a stick and surely they will help you decide what you need to do?
  • Richie
    Richie Senior Contributor
    Hotrodman, thanks for all that good information. I'll measure it this afternoon. Richie.
  • dougson
    dougson Senior Contributor
    the 306344 cam has .356 lift and, I believe, the intake valve opens at about 26 deg before TDC. This cam was standard in the '55 with solid lifters. You have hydraulic lifters which appeard in '56 on the flat top cam. Your engine has been worked on and I would do a complete tear down and start over. If the cam has excessive or adnormal wear it is possibly because of the mismatch of lifters and lobes.
  • Richie
    Richie Senior Contributor
    Dougson, my engine has solid lifters, and is a 55 engine according to the L95 on the block. Someone posted a pic of hydraulic lifters to show me what they looked like. I will measure my cam in a little while. Thanks for your comment. Richie.
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