A tight engine after the rebuild ?
Henk_Brough
Expert Adviser
On the discussion "clutch surfase treatment" you can see photo's from my just rebuild engine.
I first placed in the crank with the free play as in the manuel. Perfect !! by hand it is very easy to turn round the crank.
than I take all the conrods ( with the crack on the bench I made the free play as recommended ) and the pistons without rings. Again by hand is was possible to turn the crank and very easy.
With the rings on it it turns out otherwise. ( the gap between the rings in the cylinder is 0.3 mm as recommended by saveral people ) Now only with a screwdriver between the bolts from the flywheel it is possible to turn the crank. It is a 6 cyl. with 4 rings a piston, that makes 24 rings ! So I think this is normal. But what is tight ??
Someone experience with this ?
I first placed in the crank with the free play as in the manuel. Perfect !! by hand it is very easy to turn round the crank.
than I take all the conrods ( with the crack on the bench I made the free play as recommended ) and the pistons without rings. Again by hand is was possible to turn the crank and very easy.
With the rings on it it turns out otherwise. ( the gap between the rings in the cylinder is 0.3 mm as recommended by saveral people ) Now only with a screwdriver between the bolts from the flywheel it is possible to turn the crank. It is a 6 cyl. with 4 rings a piston, that makes 24 rings ! So I think this is normal. But what is tight ??
Someone experience with this ?
0
Comments
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Sounds normal to me , if it will turn with a screw driver , should turn with the starter.0
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I agree. With new rings it's pretty hard to turn by hand.0
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It'll turn easier after it's run for a few minutes.0
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Should Henk be using a lighter-weight ''break-in oil" for the first few thousand miles? Or is that not considered necessary nowadays?
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Certianly I would use a straight 30 grade running in oil for the first 500 or 1000 miles0
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Jon, thank you for your contribution. The others too of course!!
I use from make : Clevite the Bearing Guard Assembly Lubricant.
This stuff is very sticky and is usefull for a just rebuild engine as the oil is in the begin not coming from the oilpump. Presure must build up first. For the headgasket, exhaustgasket, I use : Loctite 3020.
For all the other gaskets I use : Perfect Seal Gasket Maker Sealant Number 4.
All advises from my Machine Shop, as far as I can see real craftsman.
My conclusion about my question is : I worries to much !!
Thank you all.0
This discussion has been closed.
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