HELP NEEDED!! Hot Rod'n a 37 Hudson 8 cly
Hello all,
I am a new member and could use some opinions and/or HELP locating of some hard to find parts. Here is what I am trying to achieve with my 37 Hudson series 74 4dr.: It is an original rust free New Mexico car which has approx 66k miles and sat for over 40 years. I have gotten it running again but have just done the basics to get it going. I have to say it's been a hoot, and I have been pleasantly surprised by the crowds gathering around it at the local wends night gathering!
Since I am looking to do a resto-rod and am considering keeping the nice patena on the paint (barn fresh look), I am focusing on the drivetrain and suspension. Needs/Wants: Edmunds alum head, Dual or triple carb intake & extra carbs, another cam to re-grind, person to regrind too!, overdrive for tranny or replacement ford rear end, Headers, distributor upgrade, basically I want to hotrod the orig 8cyl engine/drivetrain so if someone is experienced forward a name & number!
I am planning on flipping the front axle and add lowering blocks to the rear. So if anyone has suggestions on brakes orig or upgrades? Other Original parts Wanted/Needed: Hood ornament base and grill center pieces top to bottom, orig Hudson hubcaps/trim rings, exterior fog lamps & horns, fender lamps, radio, other original options. I am also considering upgrading to 12 Volt, any suggestions/books,etc. Anything else for suggestions or ideas are welcome, (please be nice) I know I am looking for a lot of needles in the haystack but anyones help is appreciated.
I am a new member and could use some opinions and/or HELP locating of some hard to find parts. Here is what I am trying to achieve with my 37 Hudson series 74 4dr.: It is an original rust free New Mexico car which has approx 66k miles and sat for over 40 years. I have gotten it running again but have just done the basics to get it going. I have to say it's been a hoot, and I have been pleasantly surprised by the crowds gathering around it at the local wends night gathering!
Since I am looking to do a resto-rod and am considering keeping the nice patena on the paint (barn fresh look), I am focusing on the drivetrain and suspension. Needs/Wants: Edmunds alum head, Dual or triple carb intake & extra carbs, another cam to re-grind, person to regrind too!, overdrive for tranny or replacement ford rear end, Headers, distributor upgrade, basically I want to hotrod the orig 8cyl engine/drivetrain so if someone is experienced forward a name & number!
I am planning on flipping the front axle and add lowering blocks to the rear. So if anyone has suggestions on brakes orig or upgrades? Other Original parts Wanted/Needed: Hood ornament base and grill center pieces top to bottom, orig Hudson hubcaps/trim rings, exterior fog lamps & horns, fender lamps, radio, other original options. I am also considering upgrading to 12 Volt, any suggestions/books,etc. Anything else for suggestions or ideas are welcome, (please be nice) I know I am looking for a lot of needles in the haystack but anyones help is appreciated.
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Comments
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You can get a dual carb setup for an 8 cylinder but I'm not sure if they were originally aftermarket or what. Not sure about Edmunds heads for that engine either. If you haven't already joined the HET club though I suggest you do that since that will get you a lot of contacts for the parts you're trying to chase down.0
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I'll leave the engine modifications to someone else, but I will say that I believe you can use a 1940's - 50's Hudson overdrive transmission IF you change to column shift. (You will want a newer one because of the torque of your engine anyway) Or I'm told a 9" Mustang, or a mid-sixties Chrysler Corp rear axle of a desirable ratio, will work. The rear end conversion to a 1937 Terraplane is covered in a 2-part article in the WTN, Sept-Oct and Nov.-Dec. 1996, if you can obtain a copy.
As to the accessories you seek, there is a fellow on the west coast who makes repro accessory exterior trumpet chrome horns for the 1930's cars. His name is Cecil Nuxol and he's quite old so you'd better grab a pair before... well, you know. His address is 934 W 16th Ave, Spokane, WA 99203-1020, (509) 838-1735. He soes NOT offer the fender bracket, though. One of the Hudson guys made these but they are no longer available. But you might want to grab the horns with the gettin's good.0 -
Edmunds did make a finned head and a dual carb manifold for the Hud 8 cyl. I have one of the manifolds and know someone who has a head but they are really rare these days. You might try an ad in WTN and Hemmings I am sure they are around. BTW the manifold is for 2 x 2 setup, WGD or WDOs will work. You would probably find it easier to find the a factory aluminum head, they are more common, than the Edmunds.0
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Dan,
I have a factory aluminum head as a last resort but I really want to find the edmunds set up (head and intake). Would you be willing to sell your manifold? Would you be able to get me in contact the gentleman who has the edmunds head? I would be glad to pay a fair price and needless to say I could put them to good use!0 -
Anyone with any information/suggestions? Parts sources???
I would really appreciate any and all help with this project. I am really trying to get her done for nationals next year.
thanks!!!0 -
If you really intend to hop up the 8, you are going to need to re-design the oiling system. Its a dipper/slinger rod oiling arrangement. No amount of topside bling bling will help your crankshaft live at performance levels.
I heard once that this babbit problem had been addressed in both the mains and rods, this would need to be your top priority as far as the engine goes. I'd love to see an Edmunds equipped Hudson 8, but looks will only get you so far - its what's inside that counts.
I haven't messed wth the 8's , but want to sometime in the future. I don't know if the Edmunds head can compete with some of the heads I've seen on the 8's - the stock ones are Gorgeous! They just need a little attention to really stand out.
Keep us posted on your project, I like the sound of it so far. My hat is off to your engine choice - that should be a real knockout.
Mark0 -
well, of course Kelly Hinegardner did something similar to his Hudson eight. Sadly, he's no longer around to explain it to you. Here is one page from his website....
http://www.hudguzmet.com/hudson.htm0 -
You beat me to it. Jon. I have been around Hudson 8's for 40 odd years now and I aint to sure I would want to really beat one down the road. If you want to stay all Hudson a Hornet will fall right in, A stepdown rear fits real nice and stepdown brakes fit also, In fact complete mechanicals from any year will fit.0
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I have a really cool book I got from Motorbooks called "Hop Up - the first 12 issues", which is a reprint of the first 12 issues of Hop Up magazine. I highly recommend it for anybody on this list. In one issue, a reader wrote a letter enquiring about hopping up his Hudson 8. The editors commented on the "very light offset rods" lubricated by splash and went on to say that judging by the hp/cu in, peaking speed, and valve timing, it might be considered a semi-race engine right from the factory. They suggeted not doing anything to it. That wouldn't stop me from doing it though, it sounds like a REALLY cool project.0
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I have heard that a free flowing exhaust manifold makes a very significant difference to the performance, even with one carb. I also know that one of the Railton Club members has made a free flowing cast iron manifold in similar style to the original. I don't have any contacts though just right now but will find out whether they are available.
As far as the basic pedigree of the engine is concerned, let's not forget that a stock 1937 H8 sedan travelled 1,000 miles at top speed 88.9mph and 24hrs at 87.67mph at Utah to set several closed car records in 1937. And the '33 T8 did a flying mile in February 1933 at 62.521 mph in SECOND gear to set a record!! I hate to think what rpm that would work out to be - 5,200? Rolls-Royce tested the T8 engine to 5,800 rpm with stronger valve springs, with the engine being "remarkably smooth, a slight clatter appearing at the maximum speed obtained equivalent to 70mph in second gear"
According to Stuart Baits the Hudson chief engineer, who was interviewed in 1929 by MoToR magazine the "fully developed splash system" had several advantages over pressure oiling: immediate feed to bearings on start-up, no grit forced through bearings, one loose bigend would not affect oil supply to other crank bearings, oil-mist transferred heat better so that the engine ran 30-40 degrees cooler and any fuel in the oil was evaporated by the mist action. He assured Reid Railton (the consultant to the successful Railton Cars which used H8 chassis and running gear with English body from 1933-1939) that the H8 engine would sustainedly turn 5000 rpm without problem which it did. Reid Railton was quoted in Hudson and Terraplane News as saying "So far as I know, there is no engine in the world that can match it". The Rolls-Royce Chief Engineer reported Railton as being "tremendously impressed by the qualities of the engine". Railton was highly respected at the time for his work on designing and building LSR cars in particular and as a brilliant engineer.
There is a plan around showing how to modify the water distributor on the side of the block to allow cooler water to be directed by way of tubes straight at the exhaust seat area of the block, an overheated point in these engines.
All in all a worthy subject, it just needs all the diverse knowledge of the decades to be brought together so it can be used by today's flathead H8 tuners! For myself, as soon as I locate a '37-on big port block I will start building up a strong H8 engine. Not to develop huge power, but to work as well as is possible and reliably within its design limitations. Something with basic elements like 8.5:1 compression, twin Edmonds inlet, aluminium head, free-flow exhaust manifold, ported and port-matched, optimised valve profiles and seats, optimised combustion chambers, modified cam followers and cam grind, modified water distributor, suitable distributor/magneto, fully balanced etc. I have a '36 H8 chassis that is ideal to form a basis for building a Railton LST (Light Sports Tourer) Replica. These were real hotrods of their day (LST was only made in 1935) with 0-60 in 8.8 secs and a top speed of around 108 mph, both on a 3.3:1 axle and a car weight of 2,100 lbs. And as well it could be driven in circles on full lock in top gear!! Those engines were the standard small port ones, but with 7.75:1 compression, Zenith carb instead of the Carter, a Scintilla Vertex magneto and probably a few other minor items like stronger valve springs and polished ports and a low restriction exhaust pipe0 -
YEA. That all sounds well and good and is certainly true. But remember that was with new parts and almost 70 years ago, so considering what it would cost to modify one, Good luck.0
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A friend of mine in the HET club, Bill Hill is looking to take a '47 Hudson straight 8 block and make a period-correct '35 H race car. The parts may be old but it can be done. Besides I think it would be more interesting to see a souped up Hudson 8 under the hood. Everyone and their grandma has a V8 under the hood every time you go to a show, I don't even give those engine compartments a second glance they're so common.0
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Mark, Jon, Tom and Dwardo99,
Thanks for your insightful thoughts the plans I have to build the 8cyl.
MARK.......... It has concerned me to have a virtual non-pressure oiling system. Do you or others have any suggestions to presurize it? Know anypone who has done this/ articles??
JON.............Thanks for the link I will check it out asap. P.S. the article you sent earlier was great and something I will need to do!
TOM............I was really considering the 308 due to parts availability and better platform but there is something really unique about the straight 8. Needless to say I like the unusual and have chosen the hudson vs main brands and thus I thought keeping with the unusal theme would really be neet!
DWARDO99.......I didnt know there was something on the hudson and I really like the sounds of it! I will get my copy & raid my dads old stock of magazines from the time. He's been keeping them for all these years for something............me.
Again, many thanks to everyone for your help, ideas and direction...KEEP IT COMING!0 -
Brian:
Here is a copy of an email from Fren Lorentz who has a pressurized H8 in his '49 I believe. You will also find the name and contact info of the guy who did Fred's 8. The factory did a couple of pressurized 8s but there were scrapped. I will send you a copy of the article tonight:
It wasn't easy, but as I said the guy is good. Builds
race engines for the likes of Earnhart Jr. et al.
Drilled out the crank from mains to rods for
lubrication, (1/2 degree off and he would have ruined
the crank) machined engine for Massey Ferguson main
inserts and Chrysler Rod inserts. Welded crank and
reground all mains to one size (for line boring)
installed .040 over pistons. Machined block to accept
Chevy small block rear main seal. Ran internal oil
lines to all main bearings and external lines to all
camshaft bearings. Installed segmented racing oil pump
off front pulley with cogged belt. Installed external
lines to full flow oil filter and dry sump oil pickup
in crankcase. Installed stellite valve seats and new
valves.
The person that did the work is:
Dale Francis Engineering
14233 Route 86
Leroy Twp. Ohio 44077
Phone # 440-254-4046
He can be slow as if there is a race somewhere that he
has a car or engine in all effort goes to that job.
At the same time he figured out how to do all the work
mentioned above, so he's not all bad.
I don't want to discourage you but it did take a
couple of years to get it done. I have no idea what he
would charge as he did mine about 8 years ago. It's
still going strong.
Sincerely
Fred Lorenz0 -
Everyone has provided great feedback and I truely thank you all!!!!
Terraplane8's plan to build a 8cyl is exactly what I would have loved to do, but as Tom mentioned it would be very costly. Dans message from Fred Lorenz is just amazing......talent, time and money, Oh the things I could do! I am fortunate that it runs good now, so I can play with it for now and rebuild later if needed.
Aaron is right on the money in my mind. While the sbChevy is a great platform and cheap, its just way too common. Yes, I will pay more for my straight 8 set up but it will really be unique and surely draw a crowd! Last fall with the old muffler rusted out it really had a nice rumble to it and truefully made quite a few wonder just what was under the hood!!?? Needless to say they were supprised to see the straight 8 in there and not a V8!
This leads me to ask as well.............What muffler(s) would anyone recommend? I want tone and just as above I want to make them wonder whats under the hood? I also plan on building a set of headers for it and then run duals out the back if possible.0 -
You are absolutly 100% right about the sound. I really like the sound of my Terraplane 8. You asked about what could be used to update the car. Well my car has a dana 44 /3.07 rear from a 54, stepdown brakes, and column shift. All using stock Hudson parts So about anything can be used to update the car mechanically.I also have 15" motor wheel wire wheels on it with radial tires and it will run with the best of them on the open road.0
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tombpa wrote:YEA. That all sounds well and good and is certainly true. But remember that was with new parts and almost 70 years ago, so considering what it would cost to modify one, Good luck.
Tom, I know it won't be particularly cheap but it will be an interesting project and well worthwhile (for me at least if no-one else!!). There are still a lot of people around who know about straight eight Hudsons but haven't seen one for decades and probably have never seen let alone heard a nicely tuned one. It would be prudent to crack test and stress relieve all rotating parts I would think, given the passing of time and possible previous abuses.
Husker good luck with your project, you could modify it in stages as parts become available and that way you can keep it on the road. Assuming a sound bottom end, pistons & rings etc I would look at optimising compression and exhaust manifolding firstly.0 -
You are absolutly right about magnafluxing all the parts. What I have found over the years is that most people did not even know Hudson built a 8 cylinder engine, when I start it up,you can hardly either hear or feel it as it is so smooth. I have been accused of having a V8 in it many times. Blows people minds.0
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Tomba is right, a finely tuned inline 8 is so quiet you may hear the distributor more than the cylinders when its running and you could probably balance a nickle on it without it vibrating off. It's the strong silent type you might say. But with the right set exhuast pipes I bet you could get some intimidating sound out of it. I'm told from other owners that the 8 is a whole different driving experience form the step-down 6's. I was also told that with splash lubrication sometimes the #1 cyl doesn't get enough lubrication as it should if you only drive it around town and never open it up on the highways. They told me that one way to solve this short of frequent highway trips is to get a marvel mystery oil top cylinder lubricator which is alledged to still be available at swap meets. I do not have personal experience with this though and I have never heard any accounts of the #1 cyl siezing up. Eldon Hostetler had a WTN article recently in which he talks about running the step-down inline 8 at its' RPM limits and nothing bad happened (of course this was when the engine was new) Some guys will swear pushing the 8's are better for them than gentle driving. I guess these are things you're going to have to decide for yourself when you really get into the engine.0
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!!!!!hudson Eights Rule!!!!!0
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50C8DAN wrote:Brian:
Here is a copy of an email from Fren Lorentz who has a pressurized H8 in his '49 I believe. You will also find the name and contact info of the guy who did Fred's 8. The factory did a couple of pressurized 8s but there were scrapped. I will send you a copy of the article tonight:
It wasn't easy, but as I said the guy is good. Builds
race engines for the likes of Earnhart Jr. et al.
Drilled out the crank from mains to rods for
lubrication, (1/2 degree off and he would have ruined
the crank) machined engine for Massey Ferguson main
inserts and Chrysler Rod inserts. Welded crank and
reground all mains to one size (for line boring)
installed .040 over pistons. Machined block to accept
Chevy small block rear main seal. Ran internal oil
lines to all main bearings and external lines to all
camshaft bearings. Installed segmented racing oil pump
off front pulley with cogged belt. Installed external
lines to full flow oil filter and dry sump oil pickup
in crankcase. Installed stellite valve seats and new
valves.
The person that did the work is:
Dale Francis Engineering
14233 Route 86
Leroy Twp. Ohio 44077
Phone # 440-254-4046
He can be slow as if there is a race somewhere that he
has a car or engine in all effort goes to that job.
At the same time he figured out how to do all the work
mentioned above, so he's not all bad.
I don't want to discourage you but it did take a
couple of years to get it done. I have no idea what he
would charge as he did mine about 8 years ago. It's
still going strong.
Sincerely
Fred Lorenz
Thanks 50C8DAN, I knew it was possible and had heard that it had been accomplished - just didn't know who or exactly how.
I imagine the person used the chrysler rods in lieu of the Hudson rods as well. Those chrysler rods come in two bearing sizes, 2.00" and 2.125". Here is what will bite you regarding Chrysler flathead rods, they are different lengths. The rod from a 230 flatty is shorter than a rod from a 217. The same goes for the bigger flatheads, the common 251 and the crown marine of 265 CID.
Never having been into the Hudson 8 I had no idea what the main bearings would come out to. There are alot of Massey Ferguson tractors out there with very different engines - I can't pin down the main bearings original applicaition for reference.
If I had to choose, budget wise, between an all Edmunds topside and the pressure oiling - I'd go with the pressure oiling. You could bolt on the Edmunds stuff down the road, the chance to do a bulletproof bottom end you only get to do once - without another major mechanical teardown.
Which brings me to a question for you H8 enthusiasts - how interchangable are the heads on these engines? Hudson really did some fancy script on the 8's that the 6's never enjoyed. I'd much rather see the original head with "Terraplane" highlighted or the gothic letters "HUDSON" than the Edmunds aftermarket. I'm also thinking that the performance of some original Hudson head was perhaps better than the Edmunds - Dwardo99's article may have the answer to that.
Also, how interchangable are the intake manifolds? The ones I've seen have been aluminum - highly modifyable - to either a single 4 barrel or even dual 2's.
I'm a Hornet 6 fan, but I would walk away from a hot Hornet to see a hot Hudson 8. I hope to build one someday - but that's a long way down the highway at present. If I'm not badly mistaken, some Hudson 8's also had roller tappet camshafts?
Mark Hudson0 -
Mark:
I don't think Fred is using Chrysler Rods, just reworking the H8 Rods to accept the Chrysler Rod inserts, getting rid of the babbitted bearings0 -
50C8DAN wrote:Mark:
I don't think Fred is using Chrysler Rods, just reworking the H8 Rods to accept the Chrysler Rod inserts, getting rid of the babbitted bearings
I can see how that might be accomplished. Especially with rods. The mains still have me kind of buffaloed.
Are the crank specs for these engines the same throughout the years? Pretty wild as they go up in diameter .030" at each main journal from the front to the rear. Looking at stepdown era 8 specs.
Also interesting about these engines. Removable tappet guides, and a "roller cam". In the Stepdown 8 specs.
Mark0 -
I can confirm the comments on benefits of a more open exhaust system. I ran a home-made split (dual) exhaust manifold on my '38 H8 back in '53, starting from when I first got the engine from the rebuilder (who ran a splasher 6 '38T coupe and a splasher 8 37H coach on our local track). In the 3300 lb. '38 sedan I had, it ran 17 second quarters at 84 mph and would beat any new Olds 88 from a traffic light or on the strip. I never realized how much of its performance was from the dual exhaust setup until I had an occasion to temporarily replace it with a single. The difference was dramatic. I've not seen any mention of "re-profiling" the coutour of the bottom of the lifters. That was a trick known by Jack Clifford as well as my engine builder in '53. The idea is that you flatten out the curvature quite a bit. Makes a notable improvement in power. Of course a 3/4 grind of the camshaft would be even better. By the way, at the drag strip (near Chicago) we disconnected the regular exhaust pipes at the manifold outlets and connected a couple of short flex sections that emerged under the RF fender, just behind the wheel. Sounded damned fierce, I'll tell you!0
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Park W wrote:I can confirm the comments on benefits of a more open exhaust system. I ran a home-made split (dual) exhaust manifold on my '38 H8 back in '53, starting from when I first got the engine from the rebuilder (who ran a splasher 6 '38T coupe and a splasher 8 37H coach on our local track). In the 3300 lb. '38 sedan I had, it ran 17 second quarters at 84 mph and would beat any new Olds 88 from a traffic light or on the strip. I never realized how much of its performance was from the dual exhaust setup until I had an occasion to temporarily replace it with a single. The difference was dramatic. I've not seen any mention of "re-profiling" the coutour of the bottom of the lifters. That was a trick known by Jack Clifford as well as my engine builder in '53. The idea is that you flatten out the curvature quite a bit. Makes a notable improvement in power. Of course a 3/4 grind of the camshaft would be even better. By the way, at the drag strip (near Chicago) we disconnected the regular exhaust pipes at the manifold outlets and connected a couple of short flex sections that emerged under the RF fender, just behind the wheel. Sounded damned fierce, I'll tell you!
Park was that a fairly stock engine apart from the exhaust, ie single carb, low compression? Considering the stock '38 H8 sedan would do the quarter in very close to 21 secs and 0-60 in 15 secs (figures from The Motor roadtest in 1938), that is an incredible improvement.
The horsepower that engine was putting out could be calculated by working out the 3,300 lbs (plus driver?) weight-shifted over the quarter mile at 84 mph, to give rear wheel HP and then allowing say 25%?? driveline losses to give the engine horsepower. That would be interesting and when I get a moment I will look for a drag racing internet site where you can do the calcs.
Personally I don't like the look of the fabricated headers that come over the top of the head as they spoil the very clean looking appearance of the engine especially from the driver's side. So for me using a kind of original looking but freer flowing cast iron manifold is the only way to go.0 -
Brian here is an idea for you. Why not make a 4x2 side draft manifold for the 8. Side draft manifolds are pretty simple in construction compared to most of the other designs, basically one throat per intake. Weber even makes a kit to use the DCOE bodies as fuel injection throttle bodies! Boy that would look cool!0
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You can interchange Hudson 8 heads from 30 thru 52, Same bolt pattern. 30 and 31 had split heads. Roller cams were used in 33 and changed to flat tappets in 34, more HP. Cranks were i/4 longer in the stepdown(wide blocks) in the back. Accually there is hardly any diff. in a 33 Terp 8 block and later till 48 except for the breather location and the 48 up were wider in the back, larger valve stems from 38 up. I have a 34/47 NOS replacement block in my car and you can see on the left front where the 33 breather boss is still there. An intake manifold would be pure gravy to fabricate, Exaust you got to go up and over to have minimum restrictions. As far a Edmunds heads, People seem to forget that the real reason behind a lot of Alum. heads was heat transfer any real efficienty increase is in the combustion chamber design and they look good. I think that you could build a real runner by porting, valve seat angles,and such.0
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50C8DAN wrote:Brian here is an idea for you. Why not make a 4x2 side draft manifold for the 8. Side draft manifolds are pretty simple in construction compared to most of the other designs, basically one throat per intake. Weber even makes a kit to use the DCOE bodies as fuel injection throttle bodies! Boy that would look cool!
The aluminum manifolds would be easy to modify. I watched a '51 commodore 8 literally rust away in the barnyard. I was always amazed at the aluminum intake and the various modifications that could be done. The dual side draft webers are possible.
I tried to buy that car several times,then the owner sold it and never said a word to me about it. Just think, if I had obtained that car before I got a Hornet 6 - I'd be a Hudson 8 fanatic ( I kinda am anyhow).
Mark0 -
Split heads? Wouldn't that look cool - don't think I've ever seen that before.
thanks for your info Tom!
The 8 was definately Hudson's flagship engine until the arrival of the Hornet. Great run of success that kinda gets overshadowed. I'm kinda revved that somebody is interested in it as a performance build.
Can you imagine a Hot Rod Terraplane 8 with the exhaust pipes vertical? Tell me that wouldn't be cool.
Mark0 -
A few open wheel race cars used Hudson's straight 8 closer to '30. I've seen what a '33 Terraplane 8 coupe will do on accelleration! Left my almost 20-years newer '50 Pacemaker in the dust!0
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