Hudson center point steering pin
I just purchased a center point steering pin repair kit and upon measuring the new pin found it to be .9985 diameter and the original pin checked out at .999 at the bearing surface areas. The new pin has to be drilled and tapped for a #5 taper pin, so you would need to have that done on a mill to get the hole straight, I would think. Surprised this wasn't done during manufacturing.
I also have the plastic material bushing that Gert Kristiansen makes and sells. I will use that bushing on this pin as I don't think I need to use the new one being as the original one specs out, plus I would need to send it off to the have the proper taper hole drilled by a machinist.
I fit Gerts bushing in the base and installed the pin assembly, feels really nice with no play that I could detect.
some more links for center pin work-
http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/comment/155570
http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/comment/20030
http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/comment/143156
I also have the plastic material bushing that Gert Kristiansen makes and sells. I will use that bushing on this pin as I don't think I need to use the new one being as the original one specs out, plus I would need to send it off to the have the proper taper hole drilled by a machinist.
I fit Gerts bushing in the base and installed the pin assembly, feels really nice with no play that I could detect.
some more links for center pin work-
http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/comment/155570
http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/comment/20030
http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/comment/143156
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Comments
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Kdancy
Our center steering kits are made to fit into the custom bronze bushing and clearance are met for that bronze bushing that came with the kit. Do not reuse the1020 roller bearings as they are junk.
"The new pin has to be drilled and tapped for a #5 taper pin, so you would need to have that done on a mill to get the hole straight, I would think. Surprised this wasn't done during manufacturing. " Do to variances in the outside casting. Each pin must be drilled specifically to the outside casting
We recommend that after you press the new pin in, leave it in the press secured with downward pressure and mig a weld across the top of the pin. This will create a tight up and done fit. Then there will be no need to drill a hole across the pin. Fill the hole in the casting with silicone. Although unlikely, if it ever has to be changed, grind weld off and push pin out most likely after 100K miles0 -
This was predictable. Unfortunately some people want everything done for them and blame the provider if it was not. (Anyone ever seen a pin pre-drilled?) /:) If one ever looks at the bushing we provide you will fine it is honed and allowance made for press fit for the diameter of the pin. So here is a prime example of someone being pissed because of the effort to remove the old pin-redrill and finish for the #5 Pin provided. So blame the provider :O and of course no call received for help. Oh well, glad 99 percent of our customers are satisfied.
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Sounds to me like you got up on the wrong side of the bed and are in an hallucinogenic state.
No one was pissed, just stating what I found. I e-mailed you about the timing chain last week and have yet to receive an answer.
No need to use the new pin kit as it is just not needed. It would have been very easy to include your added instructions on the sheet you sent with the kit.
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Nope-got on the right side of bed. No email received. Whats your question about the timing chain? Question-if new pin kit not needed--why ordered?
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I went back to my sent files, I mailed you on the 13th. I just forwarded it back to you.
I noticed two different e-mail addresses for your mail- are both good for contact info?
The bearings were shot on the original pin. After miking the pin as noted above I put the bushing from Gert Kristiansen on. Fits and feels good now. Will save the new kit for future use.
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I've had my morning coffee.
Taper pins are one of those things that just have to be drilled and reamed after the parts are assembled. No problem for a car maker but a PITA for many at home.0 -
A bandaid fix on a center point steering is to cut a washer out of a piece of thin sheet metal and put it above the casting with the needle bearings. This moves the bearings on the pin slightly and seems to tighten the steering. I did this a lot of times in the old days and it last a while until you find a new kit.0
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Several years ago, when I had my Pacemaker inspected, the mechanic found too much play in the steering. He told me I would have to fix it. I bought a kit, and as I was taking a machinist course at the local Vo-Tech school at the time, I was able, with the instructor's help, to drill it for the taper pin and put it back together. When I returned to the garage for the inspection, the mechanic still found just as much play ( which I could not see as he moved the front wheel), and he said that he didn't really know Hudsons and maybe that was normal play for them.
If I hadn't been taking that machinist course, I don't know where or how I would have been able to get the work done.
Geoff Blake0
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