Wipers
It appears my diaphram is bad in my wiper motor. I saw something on Ken Cates site that mentioned electric converions. Has anyone tried this or should I stay with the vacuum. If so who can rebuild them? I switched my 55 Ford F-100 to an electric conversion and it worked perfectly.
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Comments
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If you should need a new wiper motor - we have a few on the HET parts store.
http://store.avaloncity.com/index.php
If we can be of help.0 -
Thanks Mike, doesn't look like you have what I need if I am reading it right. I have a 54 Hornet with the motor in the middle and cables going to pulleys at each wiper. Strange setup that I have never seen before, but then it is my first Hudson.0
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Ficken will rebuild your motor for $69 + shipping http://www.wiperman.com/ . Or, you can try pumping some neat's foot oil into it and letting it sit for a few days...that often softens the leather seal inside, for a tighter seal and better operation.0
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Make sure the air intake filter is not blocked too. Cleaning mine made a big difference in performance. May want to add a can/tank for hills. Walt0
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Walt-LA wrote:Make sure the air intake filter is not blocked too. Cleaning mine made a big difference in performance. May want to add a can/tank for hills. Walt
Walt,
Can you enlarge a bit on the benefits of a can/tank & how they can be acheived. Would they work on a '28 Essex that is still running a vacuum tank to suck the gas from the tank?
Dave Young0 -
Not sure what intake filter he is talking about. Mine starts with vacuum from the base of the carb which goes to the vaccum pump side of the fuel pump. Then it goes up to the vacuum wiper motor. There is plenty of vacuum there, the motor just doesn't appear to do anything with it. probably will just have it rebuilt. Going electric may be a problem since I want to eventually convert to 12v0
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The intake filter is in the wiper unit itself. If you don't understand the internals of this unit, I would strongly suggest you just get a rebuilt, or a good working one, or an electric from one of those trying to help you, that have been in the club for years and understand the Hudson a little better. You will gain knowledge of these cars over time and probably do most of your own work soon there after. All the above will reduce your headache and make your first Hudson less stressful. Just pick the one that you can afford, and go for it.0
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464 Saloon
The vacuum is used to pull air into the wiper motor. There is a little filter at the air intake on the wiper motor which needs to allow air to move in freely. It doesn't have to have to move a large volume, but it does have to let air move through it.
Essex 28-1
Dunno about the Essex. I'd suppose you could use a can if you had an adequate vacuum source. but would think it had to be plumbed separately of the fuel system. Most tanks I see on later cars are about the size of a large grapefruit juice can... quart, maybe a bit more. Creating a vacuum in the can provides a vacuum reservoir for times when the engine is not pulling enough vacuum to operate the wipers, as in going up hill or accelerating. Size of the can determines how much air can be pulled though in reserve capacity.
All you need is a tee in the line, one arm of which is connected to the can, one to the wiper motor and one, usually the stem to the vacuum line from the pump. Hudson made one of these, whcih as I recall was glass. Can has to be strong enough to stand the vacuum without being crushed.
Borrowed from the from the : The Kempner Power Wagon Museum: their text.
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
"QUESTION: The vacuum wipers slow down or quit whenever I accelerate.
What can I do to have decent performance with vacuum wipers?
First, check to see all available vacuum is getting to the motors. Vacuum gauge readings should be the same at the intake manifold and at the motors. Replace pinched, clogged, or leaking vacuum hoses.
Next, check to see if the motors are clean and lubricated. Outside air at atmospheric pressure enters the valving system through an air inlet that usually has a felt filter. The filter may be dirty or missing. Not all wipers have a filter. The air inlet may be under the valving system cover. If you can get to it without taking anything apart, be sure it is clean. Put a few drops of sewing machine (light weight) oil in the air inlet with a vacuum source and the wiper motor turned on. You can help the motor but do not apply any amount of force. Many times the fiber part that actuates the flipper valve to reverse the motor is broken and you are applying force against the motor's normal direction. It would be a good idea to have a "catch" jar in the vacuum line so any "crud" (technical term) can be observed and prevented from going to the truck motor. This may clean and lubricate the motor and restore it to normal operation. I have heard of mechanics doing this by holding the vacuum motor in a tub of kerosene and just letting the kerosene be sucked into the engine. Keep in mind, I'm older than any Power Wagon and have seen and heard many things....
The last thing is the simple fact that there is just enough vacuum for running the wipers on a level road at a steady speed. You are fine until you accelerate. My 1950 Plymouth had a double action fuel pump. Both sides of the diaphragm were sealed - one side moved fuel and the other created vacuum. The wipers had full vacuum at all engine loads.... From the late '50's, cars have had vacuum reservoirs to sustain the average vacuum in a system. Mostly this was a requirement for vacuum boosted power brakes. The reservoirs often looked like a Number 10 can from a food market with a single tube inlet/outlet. It was "tee'd" into the vacuum line. This might help during short periods of increased engine load."
http://www.texaspowerwagon.com/wiper.htm
See also Rob Ficken's wbsite.
Walt0 -
E-mailed the wiper man and he can rebuild them for 69.00 plus 7.00 shipping. 3-4 week turnaround.0
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464Saloon, If you want to keep the vacuum wipers,Try this, remove the wiper motor and take the top off. (I used a pair of regular pliers to loosen the studs on top, then unscrewed them by hand. The motors originally had beeswax or something like it, to seal the paddle inside the motor housing. Mine had hardened and stopped sealing. I cleaned the housing with laquer thinner then placed a little slick 50 chassis grease on both sides of the paddle, (it doesn't take much, just a small gob on each side) so that it will seal the paddle to the housing. My wipers now work 100% better. If you are changing over to 12 volt I would go with the electric conversion like Clay Hannah made before he passsed on. I understand that some one in Clays chapter has taken over where Clay left off, and there will soon be more electric conversions forthcoming.
Bob0 -
I wouldn't try the can on your Essex. It wouldn't make much if any difference in the preformance of the wiper motor. A good rebuild and it will work OK. YOu will have problems on long uphills. Fortanatly the car won't be going quick and the windshield is under a visor so it won't be a big deal.. Just let off the throttle a little bit and the wiper will make a quick path across the windshield. One swipe and you will be good to go. The flat windshield does not create the problem you would have had with the curved windshield on your FOrd. HEck my 22 Durant doesn't have a wiper and I have driven it in the rain with Rain-x on it with no problem. Try the Rain-x and you won't need the wiper0
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