brake pads and brake drums....they no fit
I just put new brake shoes from Kanter on my 46 Hudson super six and I cannot get the brake drums on. I had the brake drums turned, The drums measure 10" and the brake pads, mounted measure just under 10". The adjusting screw is in all the way and the shoes are tight on and properly centered but there is no way to get the drums on without forcing them.I had no problems getting the drums or the old pads off. I realize that I could grind out clearance on the mounting points of the shoes and where the adjusting screw intersects the shoes but before I alter the shoes has anyone had a similar problem?? Kanter claims the old shoes I sent back measure the same as the shoes they sent me and that Hudson was known for having very tight tolerences in this area until the 48 models which may just be hot air. Again by grinding the shoes I can probaly get out of this problem but just wondered if others have had this problem. Thanks JR new guy
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JR, the most common reason for this problem is getting Ford shoes mixed up with Hudson ones. They seem identical but the semi-circular notch at the top of the shoe, which settles onto the top "locator pin," is in a slightly different position, which causes the shoe to ride higher and thus interfere with the drum at the top (fellow Hudnuts, if I've mis-described this, please correct me here). My recommendation would be to return the shoes to Kanter and get some from our primary "within-the-club" source, Dave Kostansek & Tim Cheney, in Ohio. Phone 440 994-9173 or 440 293-4079, 'til 8 Eastern.0
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HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MINE. found that the local shop that re-lined them used standard lining..... the hudson lining was suppose to be 1/32" thinner or so to start with(check the spec;s in the book).
he re-ark' d them to the diameter of the drum and they fit great.
that could also be the problem.0 -
No diagreement with anyone who has offered advise... all good.jr38special wrote:I just put new brake shoes from Kanter on my 46 Hudson super six and I cannot get the brake drums on. I had the brake drums turned, The drums measure 10" and the brake pads, mounted measure just under 10". The adjusting screw is in all the way and the shoes are tight on and properly centered but there is no way to get the drums on without forcing them.I had no problems getting the drums or the old pads off. I realize that I could grind out clearance on the mounting points of the shoes and where the adjusting screw intersects the shoes but before I alter the shoes has anyone had a similar problem?? Kanter claims the old shoes I sent back measure the same as the shoes they sent me and that Hudson was known for having very tight tolerences in this area until the 48 models which may just be hot air. Again by grinding the shoes I can probaly get out of this problem but just wondered if others have had this problem. Thanks JR new guy
On my website I advise that the best deal in the world is to reline your original shoes and have them arc-ed to fit the drum you are using. No matter who provides your Hudson relined brake shoes... even appropriate clearance between the relined shoes and "the specific drum" being used is an essential element of a successful brake job. It takes a bit of searching, but a good brake and clutch reline shop can reline your shoes and set the arc on each set to the proper clearance on YOUR Drum...
Good Luck and Happy Hudson'in0 -
I'm curious: suppose you remove the original shoes from your StepDown and purchase some NOS linings specifically made for that car. Wouldn't you be able to simple rivet the new linings to the old shoes and put them back on? Has anyone had experience where doing so did not work, and required re-arcing? Or are we only speaking of arcing them when some modern, or 'universal' lining material is installed on old shoes?0
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Jon
Brake shoe arcing is a common practice for any type of brake shoe material. Our do it your self industry along with the commonality of disc brakes has relegated arcing to the ... urban legend status due to lack of use today. Any good brake shop doing shoe rehab or a automotive shop doing a lot of drum brakes will arc shoes as part of the "standard brake job". It has little to do with the original shoes albeit those shoes are the most likely to have the "correct" mechanical fit to the backing plate anchor pin.
Hope this helps...0 -
Maybe this is just something particular to my area, but as far as I know nobody around here arc's shoes anymore. The guy at the local brake shop said that OSHA did away with that process and/or machines long ago. They just rely on the accuracy of the replacement shoes they're putting on.0
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When we put my hudson (50 commodore) back together for the first time aroud 1993~ we used NOS lining and hudsondad rivited it to the old shoes, for the back, I think it was... seems to work fine. it's been on there for good many years...
For some reason, I could only find lining (NOS) for one axle, but was able to get relined shoes for the other...0 -
I am in the market for brake shoe arcing tools. if anyone finds a set ..let me know.0
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Jon B wrote:I'm curious: suppose you remove the original shoes from your StepDown and purchase some NOS linings specifically made for that car. Wouldn't you be able to simple rivet the new linings to the old shoes and put them back on? Has anyone had experience where doing so did not work, and required re-arcing? Or are we only speaking of arcing them when some modern, or 'universal' lining material is installed on old shoes?
We've riveted on NOS lining on old shoes and never had a problem. The old boxes of lining "only" are still common and cheap at the large shows like Carlisle and Hershey here in Pennsylvania. You can even find the old riviting tools cheap. The boxes I'm familiar with are well identified with Brake shoe # and cars and years they fit. Save your old shoes and they can be relined for a couple dollars for the whole set.0 -
Did you adjust the mounting lugs to the narrow position? I'm not talking about the hokey adjuster thingies on either side of the backing plate, I'm talking about the fixed lug that goes through the end of the brake shoe. Look on the back of the backing plate and you should see a big nut which holds this lug. Loosen the nut then rotate the lug to adjust the bottom of the shoe.
Good Luck
Steve0 -
Auto Zone and Advance Auto have them for 41-47 in their computer and usually in stock. I drilled holes for the secondary cam adjusters and have run them in my 36 Terraplane for 4 years. I think they were $12 an axle or something.0
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