Painting a motor

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Would like any thoughts on painting a motor. I have done this before but only with spray cans. When I talk to folks at shows that have the motor done the same color as the car they cant realy tell me about it because it seems that after ya talk to them it truns out they didnt realy do the car.After rebuilding it and while it s on the stand is it just regular enamel or base coat?And if so is there a high temp clear? Would it have to be primed or sealed?Any ideas?Thanks

Comments

  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Mark,



    On Powerblock TV, I had seen an episode where they painted an engine. Of course the web site doesnt have the show listed but it was something like this:

    Tape off, grind down the engine with a grinder to get a smooth finish then they said one could do it in paint cans or with better paint in a paint gun.



    I would check with a local paint shop and ask them what will hold up to the heat, etc.



    good luck,
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Most of the time when the engines are color coded the engine is painted with standard auto paints.

    Yes, you would need to prime any bare metal to get this type of paint to stick.

    For a show car I think using automotive paint is ok but I seriously doubt it would hold up well on an daily driver.

    Eastwood tools sells several different colors of high heat engine paint you may want to check them out.
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Nicely done Rick!!!!
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    There's several suppliers of either exact original color match or original formula engine paints available. Eastwood and Bill Hirsch both sell at the larger shows. You can find other suppliers in Hemmings. These are formulated to hold up to heat, grease and oils, etc. Best way is to have the engine out of the car and spray with a gun. Next best is to take all the accessories off, clean, and mask everything off. The more care you take, the better the job.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    What year did Hudson start painting the engines red? My '53 Jet has the motor painted red, but I didn't know if it was authentic.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Stepdown engines were painted silver except for Hornet engines. These were painted gold with the exception of the 1954 model year in which they were painted red. Don't know if Jets followed suit.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    It really depends on what kind of results you are looking for and whether or not it is out of the car really. Regardless of that, the most important thing is to get it clean of ANY and all dirt first (pressure wash and elbow grease). Then remove any or all of the old paint wherever possible (stripping, wire brush or whatever). I like to use a good primer as Rambo said, but some of the paints from eastwood or Bill Hirsch advertise that their paints can be applied without primer. Up to you. I bought a quart of stuff from Bill Hirsch that was a good match for my 49's silver motor. Mine was out of the car and I had plenty to do the motor, trans etc. Laid down 3 coats. It was out of the car and I rebuilt it, so everything was bare before I primed etc. I dont think it would be very practical trying to spray the motor in the car using a gun.....Besides, I think you can get pretty good results using 3 or four spray cans if is still in the car. There are a number of things you can use for the exhaust manifold, I chose to powder coat using Eastwoods new High Temp powders. Great match and it will not burn off.



    IMG_8283.jpg
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I concur with the other responders. I have painted lots of antique and custom car engines. Number 1 importance is HAVE THE BLOCK PERFECTLY CLEAN, you can mask the bolt ons with green automotive masking tape( more expensive but bleeds less and holds up better under automotive lacquers and enamels than regular masking tape) but removing the bolt ons gives a much more professional job. I have used Hirschs engine paint with excellent results but have also achieved excellent results with Napa high temperature engine enamels. They come in 500, 1200, and 1500 degree types depending on the heat developed in your engine compartment. Modern engines tend to develop much more heat due to higher combustion chamber and cooling system temperatures than engines from the 50's or earlier. I hope this helps if you need further information, please feel free to e-mail me.

    John
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I sell automotive paint for a living. Nothing that comes out of a spray can will hold up to the chemicals and temperatures present on an engine. Also, any single component paint will not have the durability we desire. On a clean and completely bare engine, you should apply a quality two part epoxy. Follow that with a urethane basecoat of the color needed. Finally, spray a urethane clear on top. You should use a "speed clear". One quart of clear will do an engine. A speed clear will dry in as little as two hours. These clears are extremely durable and because of the quickness, are less likely to collect dirt and dust while curing. It would be next to impossible to buff imperfections in the many surface features of an engine. I have seen engines done this way last even after severe use.

    eric
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    Has anybody tried the POR engine paints?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Before priming, use a good wax/oil remover such as prep-sol. This removes any oils from hands, rags, etc. even after cleaning. I've used good quality engine enamels, and the paint has always held up well, except for exhaust parts which need hi-temp paint. Personally, I'd pull the engine to do a decent job of cleaning etc., and thus avoiding overspray(which looks tacky).
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    TwinH,



    I've had great luck with POR engine paints. They're a little more expensive, but for me they're the perfect paint. I'm working in a very small garage space, and spraying (especially in the winter) is out of the question, so I'm applying everything with brushes, and if it's done properly per instructions, which is saying something, it comes out beautiful. I'll try to post a picture of my 262 I'm just getting back together. I apologize for the garrish colors I'm using, but what the heck, I'm not driving a museum piece anyway.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    the last i checked por 15 is not uv protected unless you us the top coat they sell. just a thought
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    frankmn,



    You're right, the actual POR-15 base coat is not uv stable, and will fade if exposed to sunlight. The engine paint is one of the many topcoats they have available that eliminates this problem. I've put about 12,000 miles on another POR painted Hudson engine, and it still looks great. This stuff is extremely durable.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    and nothing sticks to it! like oil grease, it all cleans off real good. can hit it with a hammer and not leave marks(maybe a dent). i painted a rear end housing with por once then wanted to change the color. tried sand blasting, acid nothing would remove it ended up grinding it off.
  • russmaas
    russmaas Senior Contributor
    Always done well with a enamel with a hardner
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hudsonguy that is a nice clean looking rebuild. Attention to detail is excellent.
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    51hornetA wrote:
    Hudsonguy that is a nice clean looking rebuild. Attention to detail is excellent.





    Ditto that for me,and with a brush to boot. Great job!
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Dennis in NY wrote:


    IMG_8283.jpg
    Man that looks nice!

    Great work Dennis - you're gonna have a 6-digit Hudson ($$$,$$$. ;);) ) when you get done!

    How about a new post on any current progress and some more pics to wet my appetite?

    :D
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Regarding the removal of POR 15, try using Girling brake fluid. I painted the floorboards of my 1959 Triumph TR3a with Por 15. It developed a clutch master cylinder leak which blistered the POR 15 just like paint stripper. I don't know if it was the alcohol or what but I used it again to remove the POR that someone had painted a Firebird engine compartment with. Beats grinding everytime, but takes several days to completely blister.

    John
  • EssexAdv
    EssexAdv Expert Adviser, Member
    I have painted a good number of motors using quality automotive paint... yes even 2 stage paint. I learned the trick s from a guy who paints Mud Bog trucks and driver rods.. HE is also my PPG paint rep. Modern paint is capable of handeling 500 degrees. If your motor gets hotter than that, you have a real big problem.



    So here are the tricks.



    Real simple... you MUST use epoxy prime. NOthing else will hold to bare cast for any lenth of time.



    Then spray 3 coats of thin color; either base or single stage



    If you use base, spray 3 thin coats of clear. LEt sit for a day and you are good to go... The paint will last longer than any spray bomb made. It will have the added benifit of being easier to clean.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I agree Lewis on the primer part. I used PPG DP-90 Epoxy primer for my base. I love that stuff and it has held up fine on the other motors I have done. I don't clear mine as the Hirsch enamels are easy enough to clean and I dont want that much of a gloss on the motor anyway. As for the pictures Rambo, I will post a bunch next week on a new web link. Cant do it this weekend as I am working. I have the dash in, wiring complete and will be putting the doors and fenders on next week provided all goes well. The thing should be much further along, but I rarely work on it now with my new job. If I am lucky, I get on it 6 or 8 hours a week. This week another big zero hours. But, no work, no play money.
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