Hudson Rod Bolts

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I'm finished with the crankshaft portion of my project. One thing that came out of this that I thought beneficial to most Hudnuts was the rod bolt choice.



After looking at several ARP rod bolts up close and personal at the crankshop, the rod bolts for a 351 Cleveland Ford work best.



Same length as the originals and the portion that secures in the rod is the same. The only modification needed is to polish the knurling on the rod bolt just a tad. These rod bolts are .004" larger in diameter in the shank portion that presses into the rod body, and that is a matter of lightly deburring the knurles on the bolt. An easy press-in fit after the light deburring.



No reaming the rod bolt holes in the rod body, no undercutting the cap spot faces for the chevrolet varieties. These fit with light work and are readily available. Now when rebuilding your favorite Super Six, you can freshen up those rod bolts with minimal trouble and parts availability to take your rod bolt torque up to 50 ft/lbs for a bit more confidence.



Mark Hudson

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Mark, thanks; could you post a photo?



    What about main bolts? Going to use the originals?



    I'm in the process of preparing my engine specs/parts, etc.



    Apparently my Super Wasp had a 308 (original) from the factory - it arrives on M or T; told Jim to bring me a 308 head for the engine.



    I'll get rid of the AL one. H-145; anyone want to buy it?
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Alot of work went into the crank for this engine. That seems to be the weak link in a Hudson build and I suspected needed the most attention. I'll try to get my pictures collected up and get something to look at after the weekend.



    Main Bolts, I want to replace them with studs - I'm working on that right now.



    The whole reciprocating assembly is finished, I'm moving along to the block work and flow testing.



    Pulling your Uncommon engine? I'm sure somebody here would like to have it.



    Mark
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Mark,

    I used the ARP wave-lock 351 cleveland rod bolts in my Hornet engine but I had

    to ream the rod bolt holes .003 to achieve the proper fit. I actually cracked a

    rod when I tried to press in the wave-lock bolts without reaming.



    I used the factory main bolts but went with ARP head studs. The main studs for a

    460 Ford worked for all but the back row and for those I used 454 Chevy main studs

    so they would clear the firewall in my Pacemaker. I have a Clifford cylinder head and

    the Ford 460 main studs only work with the 1" taller head and would be too long for

    a stock head. The Chevy 454 main studs may be the correct length for

    a stock Hudson head but I would double check this.



    Do not use the ARP head nuts and washers as they do not give enough clamping

    foot print to secure the head properly. I used 1/2" large diameter stock or dirt track

    car 1-sided lug nuts for a 1" socket and some 1.250" diameter hardened washers.

    This gives a much larger clamping footprint to help keep the gasket retained which

    is a problem with these engines.



    Have you thought about upgrading the oil pump on this project? I went with a stock

    one that was in very good shape. I am going to look at adapting a big block Mopar

    unit since it had the oil filter built right into it but thats down the road a ways.

    Good luck and keep us informed.

    PaceRacer50
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