dual exhaust for 52 262 6 cylinder, 3 options?
Otherwise there's a video here where the guy splits the manifold by welding a plate inside and a extra outlet on the bottom.
Or I could run a Y pipe at the front but , I think it would not sound the same, any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Would I better to run a H pipe or X pipe or just leave it straight?
Comments
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Fenton headers, x pipe, h pipe0
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I don't know anyone that runs an H or X pipe with the flathead 6. Most just run two straight pipes. I don't like the BAP-BAP-BAP rundown when you let off the gas. I'm running a Y-pipe with a collector. Doesn't sound as good on idle IMO but the ugly rundown isn't there.I've often wondered if the pipes had a simple crossover (X or H), if it would eliminate the funky rundown.0
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So you didn't split the manifold , your just running a y pipe?0
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I used a Clifford header (still available?), a pipe over and a pipe under the trans. X-member, both into a Walker 2 in, 2 out dynomax, no cross-over pipe and out the Pass. side.
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Ken-Yes, I could.Sam-Using a 7X splitter (splits the manifold into two pipes). Both pipes go into one muffler and then back out into two, which smooths out the exhaust. Wasn't exactly my first choice but the exhaust guy made an executive decision without my input. It's not terrible and it breathes well.0
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What do you think about the way the guy in the video split his?0
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I like it. Like headers better.0
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"Splitting" of the Chev (or whatever) manifold shown in the video is far simpler than doing so on a Hudson 232-262-308 engine unless you are OK with a 2/4 split. I have done both......once with a 3/3 split (a real project, I might add), just for the hell of it and once because the original manifold had suffered a crack that nearly split the manifold by itself between the #4 and #5 port....a common point I'm sure. Photos show some of the work to create a 2/4 split.
The fun part was reversing the sweep of the #5 port toward the rear instead of forward as is the original flow path. The #6 was also modified (not shown) to direct exhaust flow out of the new outlet (also not shown......yet).
F
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Very creative , can't wait to see more0
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Then you have to have someone to weld that stuff (unless you know how) and from my understanding, it's not easy.0
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My uncles went to school for welding, they build and race in strip and brush run, I'm pretty good at welding , but wouldn't trust myself doing this, would send it on over to my uncle, otherwise I've got a older type hermit car guru , crazy creative guy , just starts allot of projects0
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It seems that the Siamese nature of the Hudson #s 3 and 4 exhaust ports would make splits impossible. Anyway, the design shown above reminds me of the '41-42 Graham Hollywood split exhaust.
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Bingo! The Siamese 3-4 port configuration is why it's nearly impossible to do a 3/3 split manifold on a Hudson. Doing one on a manifold such as that in the video is fairly simple, in fact I did a couple when I was about 15.
I have photos of the 3/3 I did but can't put my hands on them right away. It was a bastard, all right and I almost threw in the towel, but did get it done. It retains the original heat-riser valve which handles only gasses from the front three cyls. I didn't do it for power gain (of which there is probably none) but just to see how thoroughly I could waste 3 days. Success!
F
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So when you do the 2/4 , how is it sound wise , and when you can, would be neat to see the 3/3 , did you run straight pipe on them?0
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I want to do dual exhaust, but I'm not wanting to spend a fortune, that's why looking at the other options and appreciate your guys inputs allot, thank you0
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I should correct myself to say that the 3-4 exh. ports are not Siamese, they're just side-by-side with a fairly generous web between them. They are still individual ports but it's a difficult job to get the manifold to fit right at that point.
The 3/3 has never been run on an engine so I can't speak to its "voice", but it should be the typical, very cool in-line six w/duals sound. The 4/2 is one that I'll be using on our Hornet when the rest of it gets done but it will be plumbed back into one before it leaves the engine bay so I don't expect any sound change.
Again, I'm not going for performance or even sound (as cool as it would be)....I'm just saving an otherwise broken manifold and hopefully making it so it won't break again or tear up the manifold gaskets as they are famous for doing. That's a long hunk of iron.
Photos exist but I'll just have to take more 'cause I don't know where in the computer they are.
F
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It seems that the Siamese nature of the Hudson #s 3 and 4 exhaust ports would make splits impossible. Anyway, the design shown above reminds me of the '41-42 Graham Hollywood split exhaust.
I want to do dual exhaust, but I'm not wanting to spend a fortune, that's why looking at the other options and appreciate your guys inputs allot, thank you
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Anybody make headers for the Hudson with twin h ?0
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Anybody make headers for the Hudson with twin h ?
The Twin-H or Triple-H or Single-H is irrelevant when it comes to the headers. The headers simply take the place of the exhaust manifold and the intake remains whatever it started out to be. Clifford used to make them and occasionally still has Hudson stuff (not much). I would check with them first.Then again, this is one of those endeavors in which you or someone you know would take the time to engineer some, you could probably sell 6-10 sets. Hint-Hint.0 -
Found 'em.
627) Bad shot but sorta shows the separation of front/rear halves.
631, 632) Not many progress shots but this is the result. If I had it to do over again, (I guess I could) I'd put the outlet at the rear corner and reshape the manifold passages so they sweep rearward as in the other (2/4) version. There's a curved baffle inside to direct flow from #6 down and out the outlet as it comes forward on this one.
Not very practical, I'd agree, since it's so time consuming. I could create a better set and see what it would take to have "my" casting company (the one that casts the VFF adapters for me) do them in C/I. Steel tube headers don't have a connection to the intake (as with a stock set-up) so it would be much less complicated to make that type, similar to the Fenton iron headers for other makes.......something tot think about.
F
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Rl , was thinking the same thing you could probably make a set0
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Frankvintagefullflowcom
Your a very creative guy0 -
When my uncle raced his Hornet-powered Jet back in the 60s, he had three exhaust outlets on the manifold. I have no clue how he ran the exhausts. Later, he put the same engine in a '51 Hornet that was his every day car for the whole time I was in high school, and before. He blocked off the front outlet for the Hornet, so it was running a 4/2. I remember one of the exhausts came out in front of the rear wheel. That car had a real lopey cam and I always thought it sounded terrific. I wouldn't hesitate to go 4/2 if better sound is all you want. He told me he bought the cam from a moonshiner. I still have the engine, all rebuilt, but I want to check the cam specs at some point because I'm curious. I am fresh out of Hudsons right now so that will have to wait.0
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Frank
Talent is obvious, great pictures thanks for sharing. Maybe a writeup explaining the welding and fitting guidance is available?
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I guess I asked for that. I'll put it on the list but I must emphasize that it's not very practical and not for the faint-at-heart. I have the luxury of being fairly well equipped to do such a project but, unless you are adept at such things, it's probably not something the 'back-yarder" would want to tackle.
Unfortunately, I took few photos as I went so documentation is sketchy.
F
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The 3/3 split above looks good and you could still use the one-piece gasket, however, my concern would be that where the splits meet in the middle, because they are now separate, you would lose integrity. For a complete manifold, the four bolts around the center ports provide a complete seal but once cut (the manifold) the two free ends have their abutting surfaces without sealing bolts and it might leak. I've had to replace three exhaust gaskets already because the front flange on my Clifford is slightly warped and keeps breaking the seal. Pain in the butt and pops like crazy. Leaks a little now but only under heavy load.
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Dougson-I understand your flange is warped and really needs to be fixed, but a band-aid in the meantime is sometimes you can eliminate the seal break by double stacking gaskets. The extra compression you can gain will eliminate the leak, as long as your flange is not TOO far out.0
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Double stacking header gaskets has worked for me in the past on my Chevy headers. Also, the bolts need to be retightened periodically as the gasket compresses.
Lee O'Dell0
https://youtu.be/cIYaCBvqr08
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