clutch solution
What type of solution should I use to flush out a clutch on a 46 Hudson super six?? Also I have a very old can of Hudsonite (some on gave it to me ....still in an old metal can)....... can I still use it or does it lose its magic power over time.?? Thanks JR new guy
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Dave Sollon gives the following information (courtesy of Ken Schulte) on his helpful Hudson website:
Flushing cork clutches: make solution 4 parts tri-chlor-ethane and one part acetone, available at drug stores. To flush-drain clutch, refill with flushing solution, start engine, with transmission in neutral, depress and release clutch about 100 times at various engine speeds, drain and refill with clutch fluid mixture.
If your clutch is behaving, of course, it isn't necessary to do this.
As the the old can of Hudsonite, save it as a collector's item; you can get the new stuff from the H-E-T Club Store (in the "original" brew) or from Doug Wildrick (a "new, improved" recipe). Doug advertises in the WTN.0 -
I think I saw where people were using Automatic transmisson fluid instead of Hudsonite and doing fine.0
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Why Try something That Might Work When You Can Get The Right Stuff From The Club Store For $3.50 It Is Item 170 And You Can Call And Get It At 316-744-13630
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I was reading my service manuals I just got on my 54 and I have never seen a clutch like this. Why not just change it out and put a regular dry disc like most all other cars have?0
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This answer is going to surprise you.. The reason is..If you want your clutch to feel like a Ford..put a Ford clutch in it. The Hudson clutch can be changed but with a very small amount of service, The oil clutch will be a smoother longer lasting device. Hudson didn't put it in to save money. it is an engineering marvel. it was not cheap to manufacture as in those disposable cars. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Grinnn..0
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Here is a thread that gives a discussion on replacing a wet clutch. Also anyone who owned a British motercycle from the fifties or sixties is familiar with this type of clutch as they also used the oil and cork clutch. They didn't use Hudsonite and maybe they should have as part of the starting drill was to pull the clutch in and kick it through a few times to break the clutch plates loose.
http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4111&highlight=dry+clutch0 -
I think it was Bill A that told me they weren't very strong which is why the manual transmission cars have such low rearend ratios. According to my service manual, mine is a 4.59 and it feels like it. By 45 mph that puppy is screaming unless you kick in the OD. Without the OD on 1st gear feels like it is done by 10 mph 2nd is good for 20 or 25. Too short for enjoyable driving. I am think something like a 3.70 would be nice, but don't know if the clutch can take it.0
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464, I've heard of people putting in dry clutches in rare instances, such as in racing. But for most uses the cork clutches are fine. You should definitely consider installing either an overdrive, or different rear end gears. (There's a good discussion currently on the Forum on overdrive which you may want to read.) Or just change the ring and pinion gears for something a bit better than what you have -- some of the automatic transmission-equipped Hudsons even had ratio's down in the 3's, I believe, but you would need a pretty powerful engine to handle that sort of gearing.
I retro-fitted an overdrive into my 1937, 25 years ago. I even retained the 4.11 rear end (4.55 was normally used with overdrive). And, on top of that, I ran it with a 9" clutch for 20 years before installing the recommended 10" clutch. Never had any problems with the cork clutch under these circumstances. And the car purrs along quietly at 60 mph with plenty of pedal left.0 -
I can DEFINATELY attest to that statement, mars55......my first bike was a chopped/rigid framed 1965 BSA 650 Twin! Gotta love the British electronics too.........45 minutes later, your dying at every stop light! (BSA=Bastard Stalled Again)mars55 wrote:Also anyone who owned a British motercycle from the fifties or sixties is familiar with this type of clutch as they also used the oil and cork clutch. They didn't use Hudsonite and maybe they should have as part of the starting drill was to pull the clutch in and kick it through a few times to break the clutch plates loose.
Jay
"Bikes or Cars........the lower...the better!"0 -
I Never Said They Were Not Strong Enough, I Have Seen Them Twist The Main Shaft In A Trans So Far The Clutch Disc Would Not Slide On. For Drag Raceing You Might Want A Dry Clutch As The Wet One Will Twist Chaft In Trans And Will Not Live As Long. Bill Albright0
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Sorry Bill, I guess I misunderstood you. I do have an overdrive thankfully or my top speed would be about 45. I spun the driveshaft yesterday and counted the wheel turns and it comes out to be right about 4.5 and the book says 4.59. Ridiculously short considering the power of a 308 and it's lower rpm power. I think something around a 3.70 would be good. Then I would just use the OD on the freeway. The way it is now, I have to use it all the time or it feels like I am going to wind the motor right out of it.0
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Jon B wrote:Dave Sollon gives the following information (courtesy of Ken Schulte) on his helpful Hudson website:
Flushing cork clutches: make solution 4 parts tri-chlor-ethane and one part acetone, available at drug stores. To flush-drain clutch, refill with flushing solution, start engine, with transmission in neutral, depress and release clutch about 100 times at various engine speeds, drain and refill with clutch fluid mixture.
If your clutch is behaving, of course, it isn't necessary to do this.
As the the old can of Hudsonite, save it as a collector's item; you can get the new stuff from the H-E-T Club Store (in the "original" brew) or from Doug Wildrick (a "new, improved" recipe). Doug advertises in the WTN.
Jon B. mentioned it was not necessary to flush the clutch if it were "behaving". My clutch "chatters" as it engages. Once engaged, there is no slippage and it shifts excellently. Will flushing help the "chattering" or should I be considering clutch replacement? As the clutch functions with the exception of the "chattering" is this something to be concerned about, or should I just drive it till it starts slipping or shifting hard?0 -
I have a 3.08 rear end in my 1951 Hornet with twin H stick and overdrive.,no problems with my clutch. You have to only engage the overdrive where its flat!0
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Happychris---To smooth out a chattering clutch, just add additional clutch fluid over the recommended 6 ozs., but be careful as too much fluid will cause the clutch to slip. Most of the time I just use automatic transmission fluid & you can use Kerosene for flushing purposes which is what most of the old garages used to use.0
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I am the one that posted the original home made formula for the replacement of Hudosnite, many years ago. Now I recommend the new stuff from the club store as it has better lubricity than my formula, and is less detergent than the ATF. All Will work, but the best is the original. My formula was derived from an chemist back in the 60's working for the military and a customer of my Fathers Gas Station. He broke it down to a mixture of 2 parts K-1 Kerosene to 8 parts 20 Wt. Non-detergent motor oil to equal the original Hudsonite.
On the clutch life; I raced many Hudsons, both oval and drag, and several were sticks. I used a 10 in, clutch and never tore one up. I did rip out center drive-shaft bearing mounts out, so we chained them. The clutches were drained and flushed with Kero after each day of racing and the fluid replaced with the Permatex version of the Hudsonite clutch compound. It worked fine, and the wet clutch is a better positive grab in drag racing than the dry clutches of those day. Heck, Motor cycles have successfully used them for years. Plus our original is very unique and should be preserved.0 -
An older gentleman at the Portland National in 1989 told me that he knew someone that had a University lab analyze Hudsonite clutch compound. The results said it was essentially Neatsfoot Oil which is used to restore the natural oils in leather. Although I don't claim to be a tech expert, I have used it for a few years now and can't say I've had a problem.0
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Well I am just a beginner here, but in this day and age, wouldn't it be easier to just put a good quality dry clutch in? Mine seems to slip a little if I leave it in OD since the rear end is so short, it drives nicer if I leave it in OD all the time. I am taking it to my buddys trans shop tomorrow to check it out. If the clutch is tired I am thinking it would be easier to just put a new dry clutch in and not fuss with it anymore.0
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Has anyone ever made 4 volt headlights bulbs? It seems that would solve all the poor headlight situations on 6 volt cars, similar to what an 8 volt battery does, only easier, in that the regulator does not have to be adjusted.0
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In answer to the last two postings, you can't successfully transplant a dry plate into a Hudson clutch, unless you use a complete flywheel, plate, and pressure unit for a similar size dry plate. Perhaps the set-up from a '55-'56 could be used I don't know, but the pressure is all wrong to try and use the original pressure plate with a dry disc. The dry clutch in the Hash and Jet used a different diameter flywheel and starter, so you have immediate problems there as well.
4 volt headlamp bulbs? I doubt it. Far easier to just fit a relay, and make sure you have a good earth. There is no difference between a 50W 6 volt light and a 50W 12 volt light, providing you have the full voltage available, and a properly fitted relay will deliver this. All my cars have excellent lights with 6 volts. If you were to try fitting 4 volt bulbs they would not last long, as the generator is regulated at 7.2-7.4 volts.
Geoff.0
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