TURN SIGNALS
HAVE "53" HORNET AND THE TURN SIGNALS DO NOT WORK PROPERLY. I AM TOLD THAT THE INNERS OF THE TURN SIGNAL ARM IS "BURNT". DOES SOMEBODY SELL THE INNER WORKINGS OF THE TURN SIGNALS. THE ARM IS CONNECTED TO THE GEAR SHIFT INDICATOR, SO I THINK THAT IT IS ORIGENAL.
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I don't know about the '53, but on my '54, we were able to disassmeble the steering-column mounted device and cleaned the points and insides and got mine working again. The wires are very tight and hard to get to, but they might need replacing as well....5 wires or may 7 run up in there through a connector under the dash on the '54. The wires on that connector can become very frayed and could touch each other and cause problems.0
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Here's another question regarding turn signals on the '53 Hornet. Mine work OK on my car, but they don't "cancel" when you get around the corner, like the new cars do. Are they supposed to? Or did you cancel them manually in the "old days"?
silverone0 -
MINE USE TO WORK, AND THEY WOULD CANCELL AFTER MAKING TURN0
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First, let us determine whether the switch itself is at fault. Have you checked the bulbs, front and back? How about the flasher, under the dash -- have you pulled that out and run some electricity through it to see if it clicks? The next step would be to unbolt the switch, remove it from the column, and unscrew the cover plate; visually check the inside for this 'burning' you're told has happened.
Maybe the first thing is for you to explain precisely what the problem is. When you pull the lever down does it stay down? If so, does the light blink? Same thing when you lift it? What-all have you troubleshot so far?0 -
Other possiblilities RE. not cancelling. There are two pins in the steering wheel hub which trip the spring loaded signal switches as the steering wheel comes out of the turn. They could be broken, or fail to make contact in the right place.0
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You may also want to check the black plastic female plug connection that goes from the turn signal switch wiring to the main harness. I have had recent problems with moisture and condensation getting into the connections in wiring. I use contact spray cleaner from Radio Shack and that seems to solve the problem. I just had a convertible top that wouldn't budge and the connection was the problem. Two shots of cleaner and the top dropped. Hope this suggestion helps.0
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WELL, HERES THE WHOLE STORY. HAD TROUBLE WITH BRAKE LIGHTS NOT GOING OUT, THOUGH MAYBE THERE WAS A SHORT, SO STARTED CHECKING WIRES IN TRUNK. THEN CHANGED THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, HAHA, OK NOW. THEN WENT BACK TO STRAIGHTEN OUT LIGHTS AND WIRES IN TRUNK, HAD HEAD LIGHTS BLINKING AT ONE TIME. THEN SHORTED OUT THE TURN SIGNALS, NOTHING BLINKS NOW. ONLY ONE BRAKE LIGHT WORKS. TOOK CAR TO AUTO ELECTRIC, WHO WORKS ON OLD CARS. EVERYTHING WORKS EXCEPT TURN SIGNALS. WHEN YOU PUT LEFT ONE ON, THE FRONT AND REAR LEFT LIGHTS BLINK, AND ALSO THE RIGHT REAR. WHEN YOU PUT THE RIGHT ONE ON, ONLY THE RIGHT REAR WORKS. AND ALSO THE SMALL LIGHT ON DASH DOES NOT WORK.0
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Okay, that's helpful. Now, do you have a wiring diagram for the turn signals? ALSO, is there just one light bulb in the taillight? (If so, then that means that the 'bright' filament is doing double duty, as a brake light and as a turn signal light. It also means the wires from the turn signal switch are going through the brake light switch.) My guess is a short in the wires, also there is some question whether ANY juice is getting to the front right signal light. Do you have a continuity tester? You need to have the wiring diagram and a continuity tester, and then start checking each wire to see if it's 'making it through' to its destination without shorting.0
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If you don't have a turn signal wiring diagram I have one that I would be happy to send to you if you will give me a e-mail address.0
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YES I HAVE A COPY OF THE WIRING DIAGRAM FROM THE MECHANICAL PROCEDURE MANUAL. I WAS JUST TOLD THAT THE WIRING IN THE CASE WAS FRIED, I HAVE NOT LOOKED AT IT YET. THAT WILL BE MY NEXT STEP. THANKS FOR THE HELP AND SUGGESTIONS, I HAVE A PLACE TO START.0
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