Rear wheel hub?

jmin
jmin Member
edited March 2018 in Vehicles
how to remove rear wheel hub without wheel puller

Comments

  • hudsonsplasher1
    hudsonsplasher1 Senior Contributor
    It would help if we knew what year Hudson and part of the country you're in. Most likely you will need a puller. Maybe someone in your area has one to help you out. 
  • jmin
    jmin Member
    1930 Essex upper michigan
  • hudsonsplasher1
    hudsonsplasher1 Senior Contributor
    Upper Michigan covers a large area. What town are you near? Are you in the UP?
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    edited March 2018
    This would be a specialty puller, I believe, for the early cars.  Not the universal pullers (rather common) for the mid 1930's and up.  I think it might look like this:
     

    The large part is threaded and must match the threads on your hub.  Often, a particular puller will match several years and makes of automobile.  Watch Ebay, the ones up for auction will say what diameter thread, and the number of threads per inch, that they will fit.


  • Glowplug
    Glowplug Expert Adviser
    Contact the Essex Advisor of the HET Club
  • jmin
    jmin Member
    Thank for the info the town is Gwinn mi
  • hudsonsplasher1
    hudsonsplasher1 Senior Contributor
    jmin,  try Don Hendrickson, he is in Gladstone, maybe he can help. His # is 906-428-9435. Good luck.

  • jmin
    jmin Member
    Thanks for the number
  • ChopperJoe
    ChopperJoe Member

    On my '26 2 Dr. Sedan I unscrew the grease cap, remove cotter pin & unscrew the axle king nut out 2 or 3 full turns, then replace the cotter pin, drive around the block, purposely hitting bumps or drive over 2 x 4 wood helps pop loose the tapered rear axle shaft to drum. Fully wheel chock both front wheels before bottle jack raising car, vigorously wiggle & pull on outer wheel/tire with both hands at 9 & 3 o'clock position, should eventually pop it loose. When replacing wheel, tighten king nut only 1 full turn, then replace cotter pin.

    Drive car around the block to check if king nut needs tightened another 1 full turn at a time. Over tightening the king nut will make it difficult to remove drum immediately soon again afterwards, as to get use to getting this just tight enough without the drum being too loose or too tight on the key way tapered axle shaft. This always worked fine for me, [check periodically] simply by removing grease cap to in & out rock the wheel.

  • Hans
    Hans Senior Contributor
    image.png

    If this is your car, it looks like a 1929.

    different puller for 29 than 30.

    Are you in HET Club?

    Hans

  • Hans
    Hans Senior Contributor


  • Hans
    Hans Senior Contributor

    just found this post by Jon Battle.

    /Replied by Jon Battle on topic engine serial number location

    I believe it is stamped on the top surface of the engine block, driver's side, front, just next to the cylinder head. Alex Burr says that up to mid-1938 the engine and body serial numbers were different - after mid-1938 they were the same.


    In the photo below, the serial number would be behind the rubber connector hose coming from the water pump.

    image.png
    image.png


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