Help! my wasp is down!
My fuel pump quit on me so I tried putting a rebuild kit in it with no success. The kit just doesn't allow the diaphragm enough travel to actually pump. So I give up with it. Some one mentioned a pinto pump will fit but is it off of a 4 or 6 cylinder pinto. Does any one have a number? I also have a rebuilt dual action fuel pump, it is an AC 4057. Will it fit on my car? The arm is shorter than the original pump. I plan on installing a 6 volt electric pump as well but will use it for starting and hot days etc. The output pressure of my electric pump says 4-8 psi, is that too much pressure for my carb? I am running the car on 8 volts as well. Will that affect the performance of the elctric fuel pump? Lots of questions I know but I really do need the answers. I want to drive my car!
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Hey Jim,
I saw this question a while back on the forum and saved the answer. A 78-83 AMC Concord 4.2 L L6 engine mechanical pump will fit. The Napa part number is NFPM6737 here is the link
Napa part location
Some debate about using a spacer gasket to get proper clearance so that is something you will have to play with.
For the electric pump the psi rating is fine. I don't think the 8volt battery will affect the pump, I may be wrong.0 -
I am running this pump, and it works well. Might have to space it for your specific car, one or two gaskets....
$15.00 for a fuel pump, can't beat that...0 -
I used to run a 6 volt electric fuel pump with my 8 volt battery. It worked fine. I currently run an AMC Concord fuel pump as well. No problems here.0
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Then of course you could always buy the original-type pump, as rebuilt by Dave Kostansek, 7902 Route 7, Williamsfield, Ohio 44093 (440) 293-4079. He offers both the single and double action (provides additional vacuum for wipers). Not gonna be any $15, but I'm not sure the AMC pump is a double-action, either!0
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The AMC pump is not double action.0
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That is what I was going to say, no boost for your wipers.0
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Just an update, I bought the concord fuel pump today and put it in. I left the spacers out and the car started and ran for about 1 minute and quit. I took off the pump and the lever had disconneted from the diaphragm and was loose so no go. I left the spacers off because the thread I found on a past post on the forum indicated so. Maybe wrong info?0
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At this point I don't know what to do. Maybe try pulling the old 52 year old dual pump off my parts Hornet and try it.
Ordering a pump from the U. S. is a possibility but a last resort because of shipping, duty ,etc.0 -
I'm still at a loss trying to figure out why the rebuild kit I got from The Big Sky chapter didn't work. I must have taken it apart and checked things a dozen times. As far as I can see the new diaphragm doesn't allow enough travel to actually pump anything.0
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Jim
All double action and single action fuel pumps can be installed with the arm not engaging the cam excentric which causes the pump to operate. One of the functions of the stack of gaskets that usually sits between the pump and the engine is to space the pump arm to the right distance from block edge to the cam. You can also install the pump in a way that the arm goes over the top rather than properly aligning with the cam... if need be take the inner fender out, remove the tire and using a trouble light look into the opening where the pump installs... this will give you a full understanding of what the pump arm distance must be as well as the location of the ecentric.
Good Luck0 -
Hi Ken, I did tale my front wheel and inner fender off. I figured I might as well adjust the valve clearances while the car was down. Had to make very few adjustments I might add. Anyways I have been working on the fuel pump from under the fender and yes I can see the cam and am being very careful to make sure the pump is installed correctly. I wonder if by removing the stack of gaskets I got the Napa pump in too far and it got damaged that way. Either that or its a defective pump.0
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Jim... measure the length of the arm and the distance from the cam excentric when it is in the pump stroke position... then make sure there is sufficent spacer between the pump body and the block.. only use the amount of spacer that will put the pump strike point on the pump are in the correct postion.
Good Luck0 -
Jim,
I was talking to Darren of Vintage Ignition who has a shop in your home town. He said he may have a fuel pump for your Hudson. Give em a call at 403-328-4184.
I saw him at the Red Deer Swap Meet and he had them for 40-47 Hudsons. Said he thought he had them for 48-54 as well at the shop.0 -
Thanks every one for your input. I decided to try the AC pump that I wasn't sure was for a hudson. After comparing it to the one from my hornet which by the way did not work, I found the lever was the same shape and size so I installed and it worked. It is a dual action pump so I can hook up my wiper to it but I'm not sure what to hook the top out connection to. Now I will install my electric pump and have a trouble free summer...I hope.0
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I think you got the pump in too far. Shuld have used at least one, if not two stacks of gaskets. Best way to guage this would have been to pull the original set-up out, measure how far in the arm went from the gasket stack, and put as much gasket layer in as needed with the AMC pump so as to achieve proper arm actuation.
Beleive me, the pump works, and works well.
My rebuilt pump didn't last very long at all, not sure if it was caused by me, but not even getting the car on the road with a fresh rebuilt pump, then switching to the AMC unit, and being able to drive it for over a year now without repeat of my problems kind of points to a faulty pump....
The one drawback with the AMC pump is getting a fuel line on it. I went and had a hydraulic line made for mine, with proper fittings, and angles, cost about $25.
Hudsondad was able to bend a line, but he is more skilled than I am when it comes to that kind of stuff.0 -
I broke a new fuel pump by leaving the stack o' gaskets off. It caused the arm to move too far and it broke the housing. You have to have the original stack height, at least on the OEM fuel pump.0
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Dwardo, I think that's what happened to me. I should have tried it with the stack first but believed the post on the forum and took it off. Oh well, Napa took it back no problem and I will carry the new one as a spare as the dual action pump seems to be working fine. I figured out that the top fitting on the fuel pump goes to the intake manifold and the suction side goes to the wipers. Had a bit of struggle reinstalling the inner fender. You have to hold your tongue out just right, squint and swear a little and then it pops into place.0
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You don't really have to remove the inner fender to do the fuel pump, although it does make the fuel pump part easier. It can be a real stretch, like many things on Hudsons. Damn, they're big! Glad you got your pump straightened out.0
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I took my inner fender off so I could adjust my valves. thought I might as well while the car was being worked on.0
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Used the AMC pump on my '54 for a few thousand miles now with no probs. Did use the thick spacer that came with the original AC pump to position the pump arm correctly, as advised by Walt Mordenti. Strangely enough, we use the electric pumps out here for the heat, to overcome vapor lock......Good Luck.0
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Well, I have been following this thread carefully, I tried to put in my new fuel pump last night. I bought it as a direct replacement for my fuel pump for a 1950 232 engine. It does not seem to work. The arm is a different shape, Thicker and bent more. I have the oil pan off and the engine on a stand so it is easy to see how things mate. In order to get this arm to ride on the cam correctly, I would have to add spacers to move it off the block a good inch. That cannot be the right thing to do! My rebuild gasket set had a set of gaskets stapled together that would not fit this pump, I suspect they are for a double pumper, the slot for the arm is not long enough, I could cut the slot longer, but even then I would have to add gaskets to get the required distance. The gasket that came in the set for this pump was a single. I will go buy the AMC pump and see how it seems to do. Anyone else run into this?0
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Alexa, the amc pump is still going to need a stack of gaskets approx. 1/2 inch thick or it will break. I made the mistake of taking the stack off when I put the new fuel pump on and it went in too far and the arm came off the plunger rod in the pump as a result. From what I can see the cam on the cam shaft should ride on the flat part of the outer arm, mine was riding right at the bend which was too far in and making the arm go too far down on its stroke.0
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I cut up my "gasket stack" to where it would fit the pump and added a couple other gaskets last night. It seems to work OK, but I am a little concerned. Will probably start this engine over the weekend. Will know more then.0
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Jimalberta wrote:
You must use the original thick spacer with the AMC pump. Walt.My fuel pump quit on me so I tried putting a rebuild kit in it with no success. The kit just doesn't allow the diaphragm enough travel to actually pump. So I give up with it. Some one mentioned a pinto pump will fit but is it off of a 4 or 6 cylinder pinto. Does any one have a number? I also have a rebuilt dual action fuel pump, it is an AC 4057. Will it fit on my car? The arm is shorter than the original pump. I plan on installing a 6 volt electric pump as well but will use it for starting and hot days etc. The output pressure of my electric pump says 4-8 psi, is that too much pressure for my carb? I am running the car on 8 volts as well. Will that affect the performance of the elctric fuel pump? Lots of questions I know but I really do need the answers. I want to drive my car!0 -
Jim,
One more word of warning. If you use an electric fuel pump back at the tank furnishing pressure to the mechanical pump, you need to watch out for a leaky diaphram. If the mechanical pump has a bad diaphram, fuel will be pumped directly into your oil. Some old stock pumps have diaphrams that are ready to burst due to the age and the new gasolines. I saw a pefectly good Oldsmobile engine loose it's bearings due to just that. Not a good thing... I know the oil gets thick up there in the winter, but that's not a good way to thin it out. LOL..0
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