Novice... Now starts the Rebuild!

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Hey Guys,

Since last post the engine and trans. are both out of the car and on stands in my garage. I've started the breakdown of the engine and I'm finding a very poorly kept motor seems that it has it fair share of rusty sludge. The pistons are still in... their next on the pull list.



Here's where I really could use everyones input. What should my next steps be to make a truly road worthy engine...



(1) I'm going to tank the block, head, intake, exhaust

(2) Machining block and head (Anyone have a word on this?)

(3) Good set of gaskets (Dave cooper ... Right?)

(4) Water pumps shot ... any thoughts?

(5) Piston rings (Dave? any other resources I might check?)



Really anything you guys may have to say I'm really willing to listen to.

I'll post pictures of the whole thing as soon as I figure it out.



Is this the largest we can post pictures on here?

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    have rebuilt water pumps for 8s and possibly other parts, ALBRIGHTS VINTAGE COACH, FONTANA, CA albrighthudsons@msn.com
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    First thing I would do is soak down the engine with a degreaser and pressure wash most of the crap off it. Strip everything out and then take the bare block and have it magnafluxed for cracks. If the block passes that then have them hot tank it to completely clean it. No use spending money to tank if the block has cracks. Also take head and have it magnafluxed. Remember before hot tanking knock out all the frost plugs. I am sure your machine shop will do that so you clean the water jackets nicely.



    After that if it passes take one of the pistons in and have your machinist mic it and the bores for size and you can look at what overbore to go to. Take your engine specs with you so your machinist can figure out what to do. Once you have the actual measurements you can compare them to the factory spec and make decisions about how to procede.



    If you decide to overbore you will need new pistons and rings and of course a complete gasket kit and all the babbited bearings have to be checked or replaced and I don't know if hot tanking will destroy the babbited mains(I am assuming the eight in this still has babitted bearings). You can take the crank and get it checked as well and see if it needs work as well.



    Bottom line to do it right is going to cost bucks. That being said if you do it right you will never have to do it again.



    Hope that helps.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    You can start your own photo album at the Hudson photo album website and add to it as you proceed on your project. http://groups.msn.com/HudsonEssexTerraplaneBulletinBoard/_whatsnew.msnw
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hot tanking the block will destroy the babbit main bearings thereby requiring new ones to be made & then line bored with clearances to Hudson specs. Only way to do it right.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Based on your description, I would consider buying a running 262 or 308 6 cylinder engine. They can be found in pretty good condition for less than you are going to pay on the 8. You can tear it down and put new seals in it. Even if you have to do a rebuild, you will come out ahead on dollars and you will find parts easier in future.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    The main bearing are not poured on the block. They are slip ins so tanking the block will not harm the mains. The cam bearings will have to be replaced. Rebuild your 8 cyl engine for a good engine.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Billy K.TN. wrote:
    The main bearing are not poured on the block. They are slip ins so tanking the block will not harm the mains. The cam bearings will have to be replaced. Rebuild your 8 cyl engine for a good engine.

    Agreed. The 8 is one of the smoothest engines around and has plenty of power for your Hudson. Rebuild it once and you'll be happy. :D
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Well Guys... there it is, I'm going at a snails pace (want to make sure it'll get done right). It has sat with water in it for some time now... but I think it'll clean up real nice...



    I'm looking for a shop to machine, tank, etc... does anyone have a good reasonable with price shop in the Los Angeles area? (Van Nuys)



    Any and all comments are welcome, I'm new and want to bring back a car the will last another 50+ years.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Look, this thing is an 8 cylinder lawn mower engine. Take it apart. Don't forget to ream the ridge before you take the pistons out. Check everything, clean it with kero and a brush, then mineral spirits. Maybe you'll get as lucky as I've been.



    I've redone 2 splasher 212s, a 262 and a 308. Haven't magna-fluxed anything or tanked them. I Took the aluminum head off a 254 eight, checked things and cleaned some nut shucks out, re-torqued with the old head gasket painted alum both sides, and have just taken it out of the Hornet after a 2-year run still running great, and it's headed for my pickup.



    I haven't had to bore any of them. I had to replace the front upper main in one splasher because a loose balancer had pounded the babbit out, and the upper center in the other, because the rear half of the babbit came loose from not being tinned properly, with used bearings. The 262 has all it's original parts except for rings and water pump, and the 308 needed valve guides, seat and valve grinding, rings and water pump.



    All except the spare 212 are running strong and being driven daily. No blocks were decked and no heads planed. Hey, it's worth a try.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The mains are bronze shells, held in by a countersunk head brass screw. I would check these for wear, and the crank. You may well get away without replacing or re-metalling these. They are much more robust than the 212 6 cyl engines in the main bearing department. The cam bearings are steel-backed shells, and hot tanking may ruin these.

    Geoff.
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