Stepdown Starter Bendix
I have recently joined my transmission to my engine block and am finishing the install of my starter ect.
Trouble I have run into is the starter Bendix will not clear the flywheel to lock onto the two barrel bolts that join it to the block/bell housing seam. I have had this starter on and off the car multiple times in the past so I know it at least was correct at one time. I think that the Bendix gear must have reset at halfmast somehow, or could the flywheel have been incorrectly installed?
I measured the flywheel to block gap at 1.185 in. (which I think is correct), and have included pics If anyone has had a similar situation I would appreciated some guidance.
Comments
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The bendix is in the engaged position, or near it. When it is "in the ready" there should be little or no space between the spring assembly and the bendix.
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54coupe, thanks for the info. Seems like some gunk or other is preventing the retraction path. It sat for about a year while engine work was being completed.
Looks like I will be getting into the bendix. Any tips on disassembly? Others may have had a similar issue.
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I would try to spray the shaft where the bendix slides, and get it moving freely before I take it apart. I never lubricate them with anything other than Kroil or PB Blaster (WD 40, if I don't have anything else). I don't like any kind of oil or grease, because it just seems to get gummed up and stiff.
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LOL, that is a sprag clutch type Bendix......it will NOT retract by hand! It WILL retract after the motor starts.....What is weird is it has the old style spring cushion on it, not the thick rubber block like all of the newer sprag clutch type Bendixes I have seen. I can tell it is sprag clutch type due to the much finer spiral grooves that the Bendix extends out and retracts on. The sprag clutch will lock in the extended position until the engine starts, then once it start spinning very fast due to the engine starting, the cenrifugal force makes the sprag ratchets release and the Bendix retracts away from the flywheel. The old style, non locking Bendixes have a much coarser pitch of the spiral grooves. You should be able to finagle it onto the motor, making sure the Bendix pinion teeth are engaged on the ring gear. Try angling the Bendix end UP over the ring gear as you slide it back, and then angle down so the pnion teeth nestle into the ring gear teeth, not shoving it straight back. Alternately you can try turning the pinon a bit at a time while pushing it back until the teeth mesh.......Then start the car.....the Bendix should retract once the car starts. Picture below shows the original style non locking Bendix, see the much wider spiral groove?
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Thanks for the info on my poor bendix, sprag type. I learned something new. It's been a month or more since I checked my thread, so I've already replaced the unit and have it installed. I kept the old one to study the design and issues. Will report back when I have better understanding.
Thanks, everybody, for all the good info and suggestions.
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Topic revisited;
- Is the starter bendix of this type on all of the stepdown Hudsons? Mine is '54 Hornet 308cid engine.
- It sometimes "throws off" too soon, leaving the starter motor to high revs, bendix disencaged engine not starting
- It's not too frequent problem, let's say, once every 6th time to start, but I'm uneasy if the issue will increase and began to happen more frequently...?
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Are you still on 6 volts? Gert
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Yes I am and aim to stay. See no reason to modify to 12V.
That's not the issue. Starter runs the engine fair and fast enough, engine starts Ok, only sometimes the bendix is thrown out and starter runs in high revs without moving the engine.
It's mechanical problem in the bendix, not electric issue. Have not yet taken the starter out, thus only asking, what mechanical design the bendix is in a 1954 Hornet 308 engine.
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Manual or automatic?
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Had same issue got to point where bendix would not engage at all. Replaced bendix replacement was from a ford tractor I think. Works perfectly now
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