moulding at bottom of doors on a stepdown
at the bottom of the door on my 53 super wasp (black in color) there was a piece of trim mounted. i am trying to figure out if this was stainless and had been painted on a former paint job or if it was factory painted originally. i do have enough stainless to do it and leave it as stainless. hope some one can enlighten me on this. or have an original photo showing the paint chrome scheme used,and also the color and and stainless used on rocker panels. thanks for help, parts book i have only list these items as mouldings .
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bartibog, When Hudson first produced the stepdown in 1948, the moulding at the bottom of the fenders and doors was made of stainless steel regardless of the model.In 1950 this stainless steel recieved a character line on it to match the mid door "eyebrow" moulding. While they looked the same the door bottom moulding was slightly narrower. Sometime toward the end of the 1950 model run, a new moulding was put into use. Where previously there had been use of stainless moulding , now came painted moulding to match the color of the car. What also changed was that this new material was made from standard steel-no more stainless. It also went back to the "oval" profile of the 48-9 design. This was the situation up until 1953. In 1954 it was discontinued altogether. Stainless pieces will work on cars that did not origionally come with them but if your goal is origionality, then they could be painted. Big advantage with stainless is the resistance to rust,but the retainer strips are another story!0
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I have a 52 Wasp convertible. My moulding is also painted. You are referring to the piece just above the rocker panel? However< I have a Hudson publicity photo of a 52 Wasp convertible and that moulding is not painted. I also have additional moulding pieces and they appear to be stainless.0
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Larry, I don't doubt for a minute that your picture shows what you say it does. However, customers could ask a dealer to replace the piece or they themselves could do the same. 50-60 years is a long time and things do happen. If you look in the Master Parts 48-54 catalog on pg 466 you will note all that I explained previously is supported by what Hudson published. On convertible stepdowns many times the restorer opts to put stainless moulding on it to dress it up. The reality of it is that since it's your car you can do anything you want to.0
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all 48 to 50s were stainless. ALL 51 TO 53 WERE PAINTED BODY COLOR. THEY ARE ENTERCHANGEABLE IF YOU HAVE A FULL SET OF STAINLESS, OR THE STAINLESS CAN BE PAINTED IF ROUGH SANDED TO HOLD PAINT. RETAINERS ARE ALL THE SAME. GOOD LUCK, BILL ALBRIGHT0
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i have all the stainless to do the doors and fenders but wonder it there is not too much together with the two rows on the rocker panels and adding another on bottom of doors but it will be shinny. any info will certainly be helpfull.0
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The answer is simple ... if you want it to look original, paint it. Otherwise, do what you think looks better.0
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i now find myself short of moulding at bottom of rear fender on my 53 4 dr supe wasp.does anyone have a spare for sale or no someone who has a excellent conditon piece either stainless or painted hudson part #225254
u can e mail me at bartibog1@hotmail.com thanks steve0 -
Didn't the door bottom weather strip and molding in question attach together? If so, what are people doing to secure replacement weather stripping since it doesn't have the internal steel strip originally used to secure them.0
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Dave ,You are certainly correct in your observation . K-Gap sells the rubber strips and reccoments using 3M adhesive or using perhaps small,short screws to do the same job. I cheated and went and bought black closed cell foam rubber and cut it into strips . Then applied weatherstrip adhesive from 3M and shut the doors. The foam closes the gap and contours itself where it ought to be sealing . Works great and I think seals better than the repop K=Gap sells. No knock on Danny ,but foam rubber really seals better than a rubber strip. Danny's repops are exact replicas minus the steel reinforcement strip but I think Hudson could have done a bit better here.0
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Hudzilla,
Thanks for the info. I removed the original weather stripping but have yet to install the repro ones I have. I need to find the time to come up with a slick solution. Hudson was probably trying to speed production (or save a few pennies) with their original design. However, that doesn't make life easy for us now.0
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