Stepdown Restoration Help

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I need help with a few things such as the brake drum removal, the vehicle has been in a barn for the past 30 yrs but im not sure if im suppose to adjust it from the back i really dont want to risk forcing it..yet. Also in the future i might need a master cylinder rebuild kit(its all apart right now) possibly two wheel cylinder rebuild kits(i already have two i found in the barn where i got the car) and sadly the thing thats been holding my up from getting it running the water pump i might need a new one or ill take it off the 1950 hudson parts car i have but thats taking a risk. so any help with a new old stock supplier would be very much appreciated



Heres a few pics ive only been working on it for a few months

hudson4.jpg

hudson2.jpg

hudson3.jpg

i rebuilt alot on that on motor carb, fuel pump, generator, starter and all new old stock tune up parts

hudson5.jpg

the interior looks alot nicer in the pic than in person

Comments

  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Heavymetal350 wrote:
    ...
    the interior looks alot nicer in the pic than in person

    I'm not sure if this quote was a typo - but I love it either way!
  • nick s
    nick s Senior Contributor
    here's a thread on rear brake drum removal. check out the instructions provided by paul schuster.

    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5921&highlight=brake+drum

    most brake parts are still NAPA type items searching the forum will provide part numbers

    Dave Kostansic rebuilds water and fuel pumps, also stocks brake parts and tune-up parts (440) 293-4079, before 8 p.m. EST
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Front brake drums come right off after taking off the nut....Rear drums require a puller and some heat, preferably in the form of a oxy/acet torch with a rosebud tip. First, adjust brakes out as far as they can go. Next, tighten down the puller as far as it will go, putting the max amount of pulling power on the drum (I use an impact for this, but you can do it with a breaker bar) ....... now apply heat to the area around the hub, getting it nice and hot......keep the torch moving in a circular motion around the and stand back. Entire assembly will almost always pop off (and I mean pop, makes a loud popping noise and can really hurt you if you are not careful). Be sure to put some towels or someting under the area to ease the fall of the drum and puller. Sometimes it will not pop right off and you can try tightening the puller some more and or applying more heat. Eventually it will come.



    As for the master, I dont think it is worth the hassle rebuilding them. Get it, along with the wheel cyls, water pump, from Dave and Ken as suggested. My 2 cents for the day.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Dennis in NY wrote:
    As for the master, I dont think it is worth the hassle rebuilding them. Get it, along with the wheel cyls, water pump, from Dave and Ken as suggested. My 2 cents for the day.



    While the water pump is more difficult to locate parts for, the master and wheel cylinders rebuild kits can all be gotten from any auto parts store. Only problem would be if your parts are worn reaal bad or pitted. For the $40 investment in parts and hour or so of time to hone and rebuild 5 units, I think it is a lot cheaper and easier to do it yourself. It is not rocket science, and the money saved can be put into other areas of the restoration.



    Oh yeah, don't use the old stuff, since new rubber is available, use the new rebuild kits from Autozone, Napa, etc...



    You can also get all brake hose from any parts store, all of the wheel seals, and all of the springs. I think hoses are like $15 each, and the seals were like $5 a piece last time I bought any...



    One last thing, you can also get away with using a 83 AMC Pacer 6cylinder fule pump, should bolt right up, need to figure out the plumbing though.... make sure you have the proper amount of gaskets on the unit...
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    Brake Part Numbers.



    Front Brake Hose: Wagner F24070, Raybestos BH19015, NAPA UP 36794

    This hose is 14.1 inches long.



    Master Cylinder: Wagner 3081, Raybestos MC3081, NAPA UP 3081

    Master Cylinder Repair Kit: NAPA UP 138



    Right Front Wheel Cylinder(1 1/8 inch bore): Wagner 18291, Coni-Seal WC13221, Bendix 33221, NAPA UP 18291



    Left Front Wheel Cylinder(1 1/8 inch bore): Wagner 18290, Coni-Seal WC13220, Bendix 33220, NAPA UP 18290



    Right Rear Wheel Cylinder(11/16 inch bore): Wagner 59241, Coni-Seal WC13601, Bendix 33601, NAPA UP 17509



    Left Front Wheel Cylinder(1 1/8 inch bore): Wagner 59240, Coni-Seal WC13600, Bendix 33220, NAPA UP 17510



    Front Axle Seal: Chicago Rawhide CR15960, National 482253, NAPA NOS 15960



    Outer Rear Axle Seal: Chicago Rawhide CR17310, NAPA NOS 17310, Victor 62010



    I hope this helps.
  • dwardo99
    dwardo99 Expert Adviser
    Replace all of the steel brake lines. You can buy them in assorted sizes at any auto parts store and put them together.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Hey, if the shoes and adjuster are rusted tight, take the large anchor pin nut off behind and on top of the backer plate. That will release the shoes so the drum and shoes will come off together. Then deal with the shoes on the ground with a vise grip and pry bar.



    If this is the case, you'll need the 3-legged puller on the front as well.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    thanks for all the info itll help, right now ive taken a break from the brakes and focusing on the engine



    with a lil elbow i finally got the front wheel off and rebuilt the wheel cylinder whcih was seized pretty good. Everything is free and works good now. I also took the water pump off the 1950 hudson to see if it works



    Does anyone know any numbers for the radiator hoses?



    also numbers for the lines to the oil filter?



    for the next two weeks im gonna be busting my a$$ trying to get it ready for Das Awkscht Fescht car show so help would be great



    thanks, Sean
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