New to Hudsons

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Greetings! I am a newbie to this Forum, and new to Hudsons as well. I have an acquaintence who wants me to look at a pair of 1951 Hudsons for possible purchase. I did a quick study, found them to be interesting, bought the Photo Archive 1934-1957 by Byron D. Olsen so I could see what they looked like, and am planning to visit these vehicles this week. I am familiar with assessing the status of a car project, but am seeking information regarding value of said objects. I know things are "priceless" but I am a collector on a budget, and cannot afford to spend more than the final value of a car upon completion.



If I am restoring an ealry 60s Chevy musclecar, I know how much I can spend in restoration and not "get hurt" should I pass on and my estate decides to liquidate (not planning that any time soon!). I am interested in learning where those value points might be for 1951 Hudsons (my birth year!).



The pair of cars in question are a reportedly complete 1951 Hudson Hornet with the twin "H" setup, and a companion 1951 "Pacer?" also with twin carbs (probably a transplant for that one). The engine for the second vehicle is in parts. The Hornet 308 twin carb is reportedly functional, but hasn't been started in a few years.



What do I look for in terms of critical locations for corrosion? Where can I find VIN tags and engine identification info on the vehicles? For those of you out there that have restored such vehicles, what are the large hurdles in terms of locating parts and such? What else do I need to look out for?



I can do most mechanical work (brakes, suspension, engine and transmission rebuilds, aided by manuals), can fabricate simple things (linkages to body patch panels), and some cosmetic work (but I outsource the painting to save my lungs). Most of my restoration projects take 2-3-4 years to complete.



I look forward to hearing from owners and enthusiasts who know and love these vehicles, want to see them back on the road (I drive them, not trailer them, to local shows and such), and are willing to get another enthusiast started on a journey that ends in a driveable Hudson classic. Thanks in advance for your consideration :).



Cheers,

Tom Kochtanek

Columbia, Missouri

Comments

  • 50C8DAN
    50C8DAN Senior Contributor
    Tom welcome to the world of Hudsons. I would recomend that you join the HET club and even the local chapter in your area (Which appears to the Gateway Chapter: Gateway Chapter RPBurgdorf@sprintmail.com). The Hudson folk are a friendly and helpful bunch and I think you will find it a rewarding experience. The HET club is a great place to find information about Hudsons and also the classifieds are helpful in finding parts. The group here can help with almost any question you may have and will also be a source of parts and equipment. The link to the HET website is: http://www.hudsonclub.org/



    VIN tags are on the passenger door post.. A lot of parts believe it or not are still available and various sources here, the White Triangle News, and Hemmings, etc. are good starters. Frame corrosion is the biggy with stepdown Hudsons, others here can give you more specific areas. Luckily my Commodore is a rust free example.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    I second the motion to join the national H-E-T plus the nearest local group. However, if you want to dip your toe in the water gradually, just find out when the nearest Hudson get-together is (phone the president of the local chapter), come out and meet the people, and ask lots of questions. You'll have a chance to see these cars upclose & personal, and meet some friendly, helpful people in the process.



    The critical area for rust, in a Hudson Step-Down (1948-54), is the perimeter frame from the rear wheel wells on back. As you may know, Hudsons of this era had a unit-body and in Hudson's case it was prone to rust in this location.



    Get under the car with an ice pick and plenty of light, and start poking. (There are other areas as well, so look everywhere underneath; but the perimeter frame is the first to go.) Even if the car appears to be in very good shape otherwise, rustout of the perimeter frame can sink you financially. I've seen Hudsons that appear to be strong #3s, with rustout that relegates them to 'parts car status' to a Hudsonite. (Unfortunately those ignorant of this condition will happily buy such a car, to their eventual sorrow.)



    Carefully read all the posts in this thread, and look at the photos, for an education. When you look at the car itself, it is difficult to believe that it could look so bad, beneath:

    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6798

    On the other hand, if the car has a solid frame you need not worry that it will eventually rust away. So long as a car is properly garaged, not driven on salted roads, and the underside kept clean, one can expect the frame to last indefinitely.
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Welcome Tom Answers Inline...
    Tom Kochtanek wrote:

    What do I look for in terms of critical locations for corrosion? [Dan] If possible get the car up on jack stands or take it somewhere that has a lift to look for rust problems. Take a look at my website for pictures of my rust issues it can give you an idea where to look www.49C8.com -> Custom How To-> Trunk OR www.49C8.com -> Restoration -> Trunk [/Dan]

    Where can I find VIN tags and engine identification info on the vehicles? [Dan] Passenger Front Side Door Jamb [/Dan]

    For those of you out there that have restored such vehicles, what are the large hurdles in terms of locating parts and such? [Dan] There is a limited supply of reproduction parts but enough to do the job. Very little reproduction sheet metal so most repairs will need to be done as custom work. Stainless Trim is extremely difficult to find and no reproduction pieces (but not impossible...) [/Dan]

    What else do I need to look out for?[Dan] Rust is the most prevelent issue with the stepdowns. I would look for the amount of "completeness" to the car - ie how many parts and pieces are missing, does the motor turn over even if only by hand. A complete or near complete car gives you a much better starting point - especially when you don't know the car yet...[/Dan]

    I can do most mechanical work (brakes, suspension, engine and transmission rebuilds, aided by manuals), can fabricate simple things (linkages to body patch panels), and some cosmetic work (but I outsource the painting to save my lungs). Most of my restoration projects take 2-3-4 years to complete.

    I look forward to hearing from owners and enthusiasts who know and love these vehicles, want to see them back on the road (I drive them, not trailer them, to local shows and such), and are willing to get another enthusiast started on a journey that ends in a driveable Hudson classic. Thanks in advance for your consideration :).

    Cheers,
    Tom Kochtanek
    Columbia, Missouri
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