Changed Clutch Fluid - There was none to drain!

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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    As I started this thread, thought I would update - re-filling the clutch with the correct amount of Hudsonite did the job. Have about 300 miles with no chattering. Guess I did not do more damage than the "wet clutch" could take. I am still amazed that a clutch would be able to stand the abuse of being run dry for a couple of years ( I am guessing that there was no fluid in it when I purchased it ) and still work as well as it is doing!



    THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUTS AND INFORMATION!



    BST RGDS

    GARY ( happychris )
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    6 volt starter solenoids with the by-pass button are still available new from your local parts stores. Car Quest # is SS544. Hudsonly---Cliff Minard.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    You're not kidding about this problem. I've had my '29 about a year and a half now, and right when I bought it the previous owner, who has been a friend of mine for many years, said he had JUST changed the clutch fluid, and I trust that he did. A couple of months ago I pulled the bottom end down to deal with babbitt problems and found the clutch DRY. Not low, not almost out of fluid, I mean, DRY. You could have gone after things in there with lacquer thinner and not gotten them that clean. I have the usual 80 year old car drips underneath and now I'm suspecting that one of those was clutch fluid. The thing is, in the past year I've put about 3,000 miles on it, and the transmission and clutch operated like absolute dreams. This one ain't synchronized but with those big gears and the clutch setup it shifts like a modern car. I wonder how it operated that well as dry as it was. Going to put things back together with new gaskets and check things after a good long drive.



    While it's out, Geoff and others in the know, how thick should the corks be? If it needs recorked I want to do it now.



    A couple of people have asked about a clutch fluid recipe, which I know there are a few of them out there, and I wanted to add this: My owner's manual for 29 advises 3/8 pint of light motor oil mixed with 3/8 pint Kerosene. I know that's what the previous owner used in the car. I think I'll either go with Hudsonite from the club or Dexron ATF, as clutches are what that stuff is designed for.



    Best Regards,
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The finished thickness of the corks is 1/16" protruding from each side. When I re-do a clutch I trim the corks off to 1/8", then soak the plate in clutch oil, fit in an old flywheel and pressure plate fitted up with a clamp assembly, heat the whole thing up to 100deg celsius, and clamp down until the corks are 1/16". You can measure this with a right angle wire gauge. Then leave it clamped together for at least three days to cool down. This increases the density of the corks, giving a much smoother take-up, and much increased life. You are best to use A.T.F., as the specification of oil and kerosene has changed greatly from what they had in 1929. Back then the oil had no firction modifier in it, and the kerosene was power kerosene. All you can buy in the shops these days is lighting kerosene, which is different, with nowhere the lubricating properties. I did mix up a batch a while ago though, which worked well. This was made up of lathe oil and aviation kerosene, both of which you can't just go to the local service station to purchase. Modern engine oils are too slippery, and cause the clutch to slip initially, and then grab.

    Geoff.
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