I picked up my car trailer today...
rambos_ride
Senior Contributor
With the impending move it was either go and borrow a trailer or rent one again to move the Hudson...Well - I pulled the trigger and bought a nice car trailer from a guy that was semi-local (about 100 miles away) and got it home today.
It a Sloan Kwik Load Rollback Trailer 8,000lb, 18ft long 8'8" wide from inner fender to inner fender and both fenders are removeable. With this rollback design it's the lowest loading trailer on the market and NO messing with loading ramps! This should make just about any Hudson easy to load and haul.
It's 2 years old and I got it for 3300.00 - these trailers are 4500+ tax and license new! So even though I paid more for the trailer than a standard one with ramps et al. I feel I got a great price - and isn't that the most important thing at the end of the day?
I have to say it's one of the nicer open car trailers I have ever seen as it came with tie downs, deck lights, 2 built in tool boxes, winch mount, and diamond plating for the bed.
Although I towed it empty it tracked straight and true and even though its a rollback design it doesn't rattle much.
If anyone is in the market for a trailer and price isn't an issue - you should look these babies up!
It a Sloan Kwik Load Rollback Trailer 8,000lb, 18ft long 8'8" wide from inner fender to inner fender and both fenders are removeable. With this rollback design it's the lowest loading trailer on the market and NO messing with loading ramps! This should make just about any Hudson easy to load and haul.
It's 2 years old and I got it for 3300.00 - these trailers are 4500+ tax and license new! So even though I paid more for the trailer than a standard one with ramps et al. I feel I got a great price - and isn't that the most important thing at the end of the day?
I have to say it's one of the nicer open car trailers I have ever seen as it came with tie downs, deck lights, 2 built in tool boxes, winch mount, and diamond plating for the bed.
Although I towed it empty it tracked straight and true and even though its a rollback design it doesn't rattle much.
If anyone is in the market for a trailer and price isn't an issue - you should look these babies up!
The one with the most toys wins!
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Comments
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Sweet Dude!!!! Nice trailer, can I borrow it next weekend? lol0
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Rambo Have You Had A Step/down On The Trailer Yet I Have Always Found This Type Of Trailer Hard To Put A Step Down On Because It Sets So Low Mine Is Almost The Same As Yours I Have To Use 2x8 Under The Tires To Get The Car High Enouph To Keep The Rocker Pannel Moldings From Hitting The Fenders
The Trailer Looks Great I Hope Yours Is Better Than Mine
Hudsonly
Paul0 -
PAULARGETYPE wrote:Rambo Have You Had A Step/down On The Trailer Yet I Have Always Found This Type Of Trailer Hard To Put A Step Down On Because It Sets So Low Mine Is Almost The Same As Yours I Have To Use 2x8 Under The Tires To Get The Car High Enouph To Keep The Rocker Pannel Moldings From Hitting The Fenders
The Trailer Looks Great I Hope Yours Is Better Than Mine
Hudsonly
Paul
For now it will be a non-issue as the car is stripped down with no rocker panels - but I think I'm covered when the rockers are there!
These are not like a standard tilt bed trailer - they work exactly like the flatbed car haulers just without hydraulics.
You set and e-brake on the trailer, remove 4 pins, then back your tow vehicle up. The bed slides back a few feet then tilts the entire platform down so you can load the car without ramps and enabling low ground clearance cars to load easily.
I tried to do my homework first - as a stepdown is only 77" wide side to side - the width between the inner trailer fenders is 104" - plus both trailer fenders are easily removable so if it was a problem I can take the drivers side completely off while loading and unloading the car.
Of course I won't know for sure until I load the thing up so it's all hypothetical theroy right now - so I'll keep your 2x8 solution in the back of my head, just in case!0 -
So its 8'8" between the insides of the fenders? I thought 8'8" was the maximum legal width for the whole trailer, unless they've changed the rules recently. But it must be OK, if they're selling them and licensing them. My car trailer is 80" between fenders, and I can get my stepdown between the fenders, but can't open the doors. So you have to steer from outside, meaning you've gotta winch it on, even if it runs (very irritating). I think the problem would be solved with mine, if the fenders were removable- because I only lack about an inch of being able to open the door with the fender on.0
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Mike (WA) wrote:So its 8'8" between the insides of the fenders? I thought 8'8" was the maximum legal width for the whole trailer, unless they've changed the rules recently. But it must be OK, if they're selling them and licensing them. My car trailer is 80" between fenders, and I can get my stepdown between the fenders, but can't open the doors. So you have to steer from outside, meaning you've gotta winch it on, even if it runs (very irritating). I think the problem would be solved with mine, if the fenders were removable- because I only lack about an inch of being able to open the door with the fender on.
Mike you make a good point and you got me to thinking...I hadn't physically measured with a tape yet (got the width from a website) so I went out and measured to be sure - 82" from inside to inside and about 100" outter to outter on the fenders
Not quite as "roomy" width-wise as I thought - but still gives me enough room and hopefully with the removeable fenders this will allieviate any additional problems with clearances.0 -
The 108" (9' 0") is the absolute maximum legal width for trailers. That's measured from the outside of the fender/opposite fender. Your width BETWEEN the fenderwells on most of the open car haulers is 82", which is the industry standard. You should have little problem loading a Stepdown on this and be able to open the door. Like Paul stated, some of these require a 2x8 to drive up on for door opening clearance. The fender height depends on the manufacturer, and there are at least four places in north Texas building these. I sold car haulers for seven years, and know people that haul Corvettes and Vipers on these very same trailers.
Nice rig, BTW! I like the rollbacks. The one major drawback to them is if you want to haul any other than a car or truck. They are not a multi-use trailer, by any means (no farm tractors, tracked vehicles, etc.).0 -
66patrick66 wrote:The 108" (9' 0") is the absolute maximum legal width for trailers. That's measured from the outside of the fender/opposite fender. Your width BETWEEN the fenderwells on most of the open car haulers is 82", which is the industry standard. You should have little problem loading a Stepdown on this and be able to open the door. Like Paul stated, some of these require a 2x8 to drive up on for door opening clearance. The fender height depends on the manufacturer, and there are at least four places in north Texas building these. I sold car haulers for seven years, and know people that haul Corvettes and Vipers on these very same trailers.
Nice rig, BTW! I like the rollbacks. The one major drawback to them is if you want to haul any other than a car or truck. They are not a multi-use trailer, by any means (no farm tractors, tracked vehicles, etc.).
So what would you recommend for a trailer? I am going to have to pull the trigger too and have been looking for the all around trailer, but would like one to haul my 37 hudson, 89 corvette or other soon to own project!
thanks,0 -
66patrick66 wrote:...
... The one major drawback to them is if you want to haul any other than a car or truck. They are not a multi-use trailer, by any means (no farm tractors, tracked vehicles, etc.)...
Thanks! It's one of those rare occassions I feel like I got a decent deal on something and it looked nicer than I thought it would!
Yeah, you can't really haul anything that heavy as it's only rated at 8000lbs - You'd want an equipment trailer for something like that plus a better rig to tow with.
This is an all steel trailer and my 1/2 ton 90 Chev 4x4 w/stock 350 and 185k plus miles was 'groaning' ever so slightly on some of the bigger hills...ESPECIALLY when having to start from a dead stop on a hill on the freeway from an idiot in little rice burner car who cut right in front of me...crammed on his brakes at 60 mph...then left 10 car lengths in front of him forcing me to hit my brakes hard and have to steer onto the shoulder of the freeway w/trailer to avoid hitting the "@-hole (I had no plug in so NO trailer brakes - that was fun!:mad: )
Needless to say I gave the maroon (intentionally misspelled
) the international sign of the bird and "nicely" suggested some physical re-arraingments I would have been happy to help him out with! 0 -
looking for the all around trailer, but would like one to haul my 37 hudson, 89 corvette or other soon to own project!
Brian, if you're going for something more flexible in overall use, I'd recommend an 18'-20' open car hauler with the following options:
2'-3' dovetail. Wood deck. If oak is offered, get it! (lets you haul tractors and tracked vehicles (snowmachines, etc>) easier; ever tried to load a farm tractor on a steel-floor trailer?), but a steel floor is fine if you only plan to haul cars and/or trucks. Brakes on BOTH axles (this is the law in some states; ALL states require at least one brake axle). "ST" rated trailer radials OR six-ply 600-15 bias trailer tires (NEVER run "P"-code car radial tires on a trailer!).
A 7K# 2" Bulldog coupler or a 10K# 2-5/16" Bulldog coupler with 3,500# or 5,000# axles. An electric winch (come-alongs are the most dangerous POS to load something ever designed!). "D"-ring tiedown rings or a "bumprail" along the entire length of the trailer, allowing for easy and flexible tie-down points. Ideally, your trailer wiring should be run through conduit, as opposed to being run through ungrommeted holes cut or drilled through the frame crossmembers. Get the best lighting the manufacturer offers. The newer LED lights are unbeatable in visability and longevity. Get the heaviest tongue jack and safety chains offered, plus a breakaway kit, which activates the trailer brakes in case of separation. Extra lighting is good, too, whether built into the floor or up front, pointing back, for loading.
FRAME SPECS: Minumum 5" C-channel with 5" C-channel crossmembers (or 4"x3" angle iron crossmembers) Crossmembers should be NO FARTHER than 24" apart (ideally 18"). NEVER go with angle for the perimeter frame! "Wraparound" tongue (goes all the way from the front of the trailer to the front of the axle mounts). Teardrop fenders with a reinforcement bar welded at the middle of the fender to the frame (keeps the fender from bending when you step on it). Ramps that stow from the rear or the side are good (rear is better - less carrying) and LOCK your ramps! Oh, and a toolbox and a spare tire are nice to have, too!
Always be mindful that the rated GVW is the least of your various systems; axle capacity, hitch rating, and tire load capacity. So, if you have a 7K# coupler, two 3,500# axles and four tires rated at 2,100# each (8,400# total), your max capacity is still only 7,000 pounds.
Last thing - if buying a trailer from a person in a state in which a) car haulers and utilities are not required a registration or title, or b) a trailer in a state that requires paperwork, but the owner has none, be careful! Could be a stolen rig! Lots of stolen trailers leave Oklahoma for parts East (especially Arkansas and Tennessee).
Hope this helps. I built my trailer in '00 and it's been over 40K miles without any issues, hauling every kind of vehicle from a Metropolitan to a 2-ton '50 Dodge B-2-HHA flatbed truck.
Buy the best trailer you can afford, think of every conceivable use you're going to have for it, and go from there.0 -
WOW! Great information and I really appreciate it. Do any dealers/manufactures fit the bill? I am on the Nebr/Iowa boarder if that helps.
Thanks again!!0 -
a buddy of mine bought one of these when that trailer is lowered you could get a car that sits 2 inches off the ground on it.0
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frankmn wrote:a buddy of mine bought one of these when that trailer is lowered you could get a car that sits 2 inches off the ground on it.
2" :eek: Might as well have drug it up on the belly pan! My Hudson won't be that low but that's good to know!0 -
If your trailer has torsion axles, instead of the more common (on open trailers) straight, sprung axle, that'll get you nearly six inches lower to the ground. I don't want to be TOO low, or else someone could use your trailer as a ramp if you had to stop suddenly and he drove up your trailer and hit your truck!:eek:
Most enclosed car haulers use torsion axles.0 -
66patrick66 wrote:If your trailer has torsion axles, instead of the more common (on open trailers) straight, sprung axle, that'll get you nearly six inches lower to the ground. I don't want to be TOO low, or else someone could use your trailer as a ramp if you had to stop suddenly and he drove up your trailer and hit your truck!:eek:
Most enclosed car haulers use torsion axles.
Dual 3500lb Torxflex axles is what the manufacturer says it has...0 -
rambos_ride wrote:Dual 3500lb Torxflex axles is what the manufacturer says it has...
A'right you guys didn't tell me I would need to buy accessories for the trailer! (These things are more like boats...beware the hidden costs
)
I went to Harbor Freight today and got
4 - 5/16 x 20ft 4700lb chains with hooks
4 - Non-Ratcheting Load Binders 5400 lb
4 - 2" x 27 ft 10000lb Ratchet tie downs
1 - 12v Electric Winch (3000 lbs. pulling force, 8500 lbs. marine, 9500 lbs. rolling stock)
$$ 350 and change
Weeee! Now I can tow my Hudson hulk to the sandblasters!0 -
That's a nice rig Dan. What does Rambo think?
Also, I can second the motion on "P" rated tires- Don't do it. I once borrowed a trailer from a business partner of mine to tow my 64 Chevy PU from Birmingham, AL to Asheville, NC, and unwound a BRAND NEW Michelin P-rated tire off the right rear on I-85 outside Greenville, SC. Go figure, I didn't have a spare. And it was the middle of the night, like 2 AM. I had to drop & lock the trailer, drive 100 miles to my destination and pick up a spare tire and wheel I had, drive back to the trailer, change the tire, load back up, and drive back. Added an extra 200 miles to the trip. The next day I bought an ST tire to replace the Michelin blowout and returned the trailer with it. The other three tires are still "P"s. I haven't borrowed that trailer since. And when I do use one, I'm damn sure that I've got a spare to fit it. Even my little 4x8 lawn mower trailer now has a spare on the side of it, which I bought wheel and tire and all from Lowe's.
As far as farm equipment goes, I suppose it's a moot point if you don't have access to it, but my 90hp 4WD Kubota M9000 closed cab only weighs in at 6600 pounds. Looking at that thing with it's 7' rear tires you'd think it weighs over 10,000. I haven't looked in a while, but I believe our Ford 555 backhoe is about the same. I'm getting ready to buy a trailer and I'm going to make sure I can fit that on there. Although I won't be towing it with my usual F-150.
"A Man and his tractor, is a beautiful thing..."
Let me know how that Harbor Freight winch works out, if it does a good job I'll go get one.
Best Regards,0 -
jamcoats wrote:That's a nice rig Dan. What does Rambo think?
Also, I can second the motion on "P" rated tires- Don't do it. I once borrowed a trailer from a business partner of mine to tow my 64 Chevy PU from Birmingham, AL to Asheville, NC, and unwound a BRAND NEW Michelin P-rated tire off the right rear on I-85 outside Greenville, SC. Go figure, I didn't have a spare. And it was the middle of the night, like 2 AM. I had to drop & lock the trailer, drive 100 miles to my destination and pick up a spare tire and wheel I had, drive back to the trailer, change the tire, load back up, and drive back. Added an extra 200 miles to the trip. The next day I bought an ST tire to replace the Michelin blowout and returned the trailer with it. The other three tires are still "P"s. I haven't borrowed that trailer since. And when I do use one, I'm damn sure that I've got a spare to fit it. Even my little 4x8 lawn mower trailer now has a spare on the side of it, which I bought wheel and tire and all from Lowe's.
As far as farm equipment goes, I suppose it's a moot point if you don't have access to it, but my 90hp 4WD Kubota M9000 closed cab only weighs in at 6600 pounds. Looking at that thing with it's 7' rear tires you'd think it weighs over 10,000. I haven't looked in a while, but I believe our Ford 555 backhoe is about the same. I'm getting ready to buy a trailer and I'm going to make sure I can fit that on there. Although I won't be towing it with my usual F-150.
"A Man and his tractor, is a beautiful thing..."
Let me know how that Harbor Freight winch works out, if it does a good job I'll go get one.
Best Regards,
Rambo loves the new trailer because 1) he can jump up on it and 2) It makes me happy! When I'm happy Rambo is happy!
I checked the tires and they are Goodyear ST rated 205/75 r14 Radial trailer tires - they still have the nubs on the sides of the tires!
This trailer is all steel with steel diamond plating so I don't see why I couldn't haul something "heftier" as long as it fits within the weight limits.
Heres a picture of the portable 12v winch I bought from Harbor Frieght. Nothing special (129 on sale for 99) - about the only thing I couldn't do is drag the body tub on the trailer - but I could put a block and tackle on it and double the pulling power - yes, I should be able to even drag the body tub up with this little winch!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3882
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All of the rollback-style trailers have the torsion (Torflex) axles. Nice axles, very little bouncing when the trailer is empty, and very dependable. You got a good rig there!0
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these are amazing there aren't any ramps involved. when in the load position the back of trailer sits on the ground and the front is maybe 8 inches off the ground. its like driving down the street.0
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