Starter bolt

Nevada Hudson
Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I found the culpret of the starter gear grinding against the Flywheel of my '50 Commodore 6. The lower bolt that holds the starter on is bent and stripped. I took the starter off, but after removing the nuts and washers, the bolt won't come off ! Does anyone know how to remove this bolt ? This might be a cause for many flywheel problems, as the starter must be lined up perfectly.

Comments

  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    Nevada Hudson wrote:
    I found the culpret of the starter gear grinding against the Flywheel of my '50 Commodore 6. The lower bolt that holds the starter on is bent and stripped. I took the starter off, but after removing the nuts and washers, the bolt won't come off ! Does anyone know how to remove this bolt ? This might be a cause for many flywheel problems, as the starter must be lined up perfectly.



    If it's the Hudson factory setup, then that's more of a double ended stud with a small hex section in the middle, that is captivated between your engine and transmission. You can't get it out without taking your tranny off....or at least unbolting it and moving it back an inch or two. Some people have had luck just using plain bolts here as replacements for these studs, but getting the old one out is probably your biggest problem.



    I recently bent a starter shaft because my starter nuts came loose while driving, and allowed to starter to sag a little. It doesn't have to move much to cause damage to either itself or the flywheel ring gear. Now I always use lock nuts on these, to prevent that from happening again.
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    Everything is factory original. I guess I'm screwed ! Can't drop the transmission on a dirt driveway, and can't move the vehicle ! (I'm doing this by myself. ) It's at a bad angle to drill out, and I see no way of straighting the bolt, or pounding it out. Can't see why the factory did it this way ! Don't want to ruin the flywheel or starter or it will be worse. Oh,well, thanks for the information.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Nevada Hudson wrote:
    Everything is factory original. I guess I'm screwed ! Can't drop the transmission on a dirt driveway, and can't move the vehicle ! (I'm doing this by myself. ) It's at a bad angle to drill out, and I see no way of straighting the bolt, or pounding it out. Can't see why the factory did it this way ! Don't want to ruin the flywheel or starter or it will be worse. Oh,well, thanks for the information.



    When I was servicing the old Burroughs mechanical office machines, we had a saying "If you can see it you can fix it". The same pretty much goes for Hudsons I reckon. The problem you have is with the collar on the stud, which butts against the engine plate, and fits in a recess in the bell housing. What you can do in the meantime is cut a smaller thread on the protruding end of the stud, coming down to a 5/16" size. Then get a small ring machined to fit over the reduced size stud that will locate inside the starter mounting plate, so that it locates the starter correctly, and use a heavy washer under the nut holding the starter on. It would be possible to get a right-angle drive for an electric drill, to enable you to get in and drill the stud out, but it would be difficult to do this accurately from under the car. You would have to drill right through the collar until the stud can be removed. This would be best done in 2 stages, drilling a 3/16 hole first, and then running a 3/8" drill through to finish. This would leave the collar still in there of course, but you could put a new bolt right through this. Good luck,

    Geoff.
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:
    When I was servicing the old Burroughs mechanical office machines, we had a saying "If you can see it you can fix it". The same pretty much goes for Hudsons I reckon. The problem you have is with the collar on the stud, which butts against the engine plate, and fits in a recess in the bell housing. What you can do in the meantime is cut a smaller thread on the protruding end of the stud, coming down to a 5/16" size. Then get a small ring machined to fit over the reduced size stud that will locate inside the starter mounting plate, so that it locates the starter correctly, and use a heavy washer under the nut holding the starter on. It would be possible to get a right-angle drive for an electric drill, to enable you to get in and drill the stud out, but it would be difficult to do this accurately from under the car. You would have to drill right through the collar until the stud can be removed. This would be best done in 2 stages, drilling a 3/16 hole first, and then running a 3/8" drill through to finish. This would leave the collar still in there of course, but you could put a new bolt right through this. Good luck,

    Geoff.

    Thanks Geoff, I'll try anything !;

    Oh, and thanks for your informative articles in the WTN!
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    for the correct fix, pull the trans and bellhousing from plate. let me send you two good orgi center collar bolts and your problems are overBILL ALBRIGHT
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    bill a wrote:
    for the correct fix, pull the trans and bellhousing from plate. let me send you two good orgi center collar bolts and your problems are overBILL ALBRIGHT



    Don't forget about the exclusive Hudson 'removable floor pan'. This makes transmission/clutch work a breeze. You still need access underneath, but most of the work is done from the top. It requires unbolting the front seat and scooting it back out of the way, or taking it out. Pull the front carpeting out. Then there are probably 15 screws to remove to get the pan off, and you can have complete access from the firewall to the tailshaft of the tranny. It really makes this job a piece of cake, at least when compared to the usual removal from underneath method on every other car.



    Good Luck,

    Doug
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Bill, I need a set of these, what do they cost and where do I send the check?



    bill a wrote:
    for the correct fix, pull the trans and bellhousing from plate. let me send you two good orgi center collar bolts and your problems are overBILL ALBRIGHT
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    bill a wrote:
    for the correct fix, pull the trans and bellhousing from plate. let me send you two good orgi center collar bolts and your problems are overBILL ALBRIGHT



    Thanks Bill, Just let me know how much $, and it will be in the mail !
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    After pulling apart my hudson super six [41] I noticed the edge of the flywheel teeth [ring gear] were ground off from the starter. Was going to weld them up and repair it but after looking closely I was able to take the ring gear off with a copper hammer and just flip it over and re install. It seats perfect because of the lip on the flywheel. Haven't tried it yet but I don't see why it won't work. So before you purchase a new ring gear, [hopefully you won't have to] check it out. There's ninety percent of teeth left which should work with no problem.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Sorry to be a joy-germ, but turning the ring gear around may not be satisfactory, as there is a chamfer on the teeth which acts to guide the bendix pinion in upon meshing. If you don't have this chamfer the chance of a point-to point mesh is greater, with the resultant jam, or else you may get the pinion going in the wrong side an jamming. If this happens you have to put the car in top gear and push backwards to spring the pinion back out. However, you may get away with it, so please let us all know how you get on. Good luck,

    Geoff.
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