Really have to pull the trans out through the car?

With the front seat out of the way it is possible to get an OD gearbox out and back in through the hole in the floor. Bit of a struggle because of the length of the unit, and needs 2 people because of the weight, but it is do-able.

Have you been able to find where seepage is coming from? there are two plugs to put gear oil in as I'm sure you've seen. Rear seal doesn't require trans removal, driveshaft,yes. Front seal may be able to replace by sliding back enough to gain access. check the drain plugs for seepage. Don't be concerned about your questions,I know enough to be dangerous. As you've seen by the responses to your questions, Hudson folks are kind, gentle, respectful folks that want the same thing you do, a drivable Hudson and fellowship with others like you.

I visit another forum and I can tell you they are a critical bunch, Ya have to watch what ya say, or they'll tell ya that ain't right,you have to do this way. The short time I've been on this forum and been allowed to participate, I've never read one critical word or statement, and that's the nature of Hudson people. I've driven my beater 49 Commodore to a number of meets and folks be just glad to have my car there as a prsitine restored Hudson. That makes for a great club supported by great people. One of the things I enjoy about Hudson meets and people is the fact, there's no judging. Everybody's come to enjoy themselves with others that have the same afflication.

Thanks for letting me share,

Kim

I thought it was a disscussion! No argument here..

Don't take this DISCUSSION personal. I know Bill well enough to know he wouldn't trying to make anyone look bad or hurt anyones feelings. That is certainly not MY intent. As with most people on the frum, we want to learn more about our favorite car. I make mistakes all the time and have been told about it here on the forum. I just take it in stride. I ain't perfect. I was berated for mentioning the use of Teflon tape on a fuel line. The berator didn't understand that I was talking about THREADED portion of a FLARE fitting to allow the fitting to be tightened enough to prevent leakage,.The threads don't come into contact with fuel as with a pipe fitting, (unless it's leaking). I didn't think it was important enough to further the discussion. I was right. He didn't fully understand what I said,,So what?..Exchanging ideas and OPINIONS is why this is called a FORUM.

In this case, just a matter of us both trying to understand the situation. Obviously your Hudson is modified from the original factory configuration. It's not hard to imagine that these cars have had a few modifications over he past 50+ years. Later Stepdowns do have a removeable crossmember due to the size of the Hydramatic. I'm sure many have been cut, torched etc. By the way, the parking brake cable passes through and is anc****d to this crossmember as well. Where does you cable attach under the car? Perhaps a stub of the crossmember that has been cut out? I can't picture how the rear of the engine and transmission are supported without this crossmember under the tranny. A picture would be worth a thousand words.

The original cross member Bill speaks of is situated in a position that the FACTORY says prohibits the transmission and bellhousing from being removed from below the car. That has been my and Bill's experience. So your contention that it can be removed piques our natural curiousity. You can understand our wondering what we are missing? Yes, the transmission can be slid back a ways if you use some long studs on the top. As others have mentioned, even some clutch work can be done. Go ahead and do it your way. I don't think Bill or I said you can't. We just want to know HOW. Report back.. Maybe a picture of your cars configuration?

What ever you do...Make it fun and safe. Dave W

LJ,

Great pictures. Looks like you are expecting a cold winter (Firewood stack).. Do you have heat in the garage?

Your pictures show the factory configuration. No modifications that I can see. Now, Measure the diameter of the bell housing and check the distance between the crossmember and the floor board. The bellhousing is larger than the space between them. The bellhousing cannot go backwards over the crossmember without the floorboard being removed. The engine can't be raised enough to drop the transmission forward.(By the way, the fan radiator clearance is close so be careful jacking the engine.) So the floorboard must come out and the transmission brought up and rearward. It will be inside the car at this point. Why not just drag it out and be done with it? My transmission looked like that until I pressure cleaned it, replaced the rear seal ,resealed the governor, and reverse lockout switch. Did that just a couple weeks ago along with a pinion seal.. No more driveway stains!

If it ain't fun..don't do it! Dave w.

LJ ,

I owe you an apology. All along, I thought you were trying to avoid taking the inside of the car apart. Don't know where I got that idea, perhaps from someone elses post. but that was the thinking on this side. I stand corrected.



You will still have to remove the rod that supports the brake mechanism.



Having a transmission jack is a luxury I never had. I'm just now getting used to a roll around jack thanks to Harbor freight. "Back in the day" I only had a bottle jack and a lot of random size pieces of wood. I do have a two post lift in the shop now. The older I get, the less heavy work I do and the better tools I can afford. Life ain't fair!

Now get out in the garage and "drop" the tranny.

Dave W.

I heartily agree that taking the tranny out the bottom is a whole lot easier on the body (of the owner/mechanic!) You do have to take some of the brake support structure out of the way, but that effort is easily worth it. I just use a shop jack also ... it's a bit of a balancing act, but it works. Be sure to have the car up off the floor quite a way, or you'll not be able to get the tranny/bellhousing assembly out from under once you've got it down to the floor. And using the guide studs at the two topmost bolt positions is crucial, for removal without damage, and especially for getting the assembly back in place.