Witch oil??

At that mileage you need a good multigrade oil detergent oil to keep the engine well lubricated and clean. Don't economise by using the the cheap stuff. This is a pressure fed engine, apart from the tappets and valves. You could even go to a synthetic or semi-synthetic for maximum protection.

Geoff.

Geoff,

I thought the convention on motor oil for cars of this vintage would be to run non synthetic straight 30 wt. You mention a semi synthetic and full synthetic. Wouldn't that effect the engine gasket's ? I thought that the absorbtion of conventional oil in older engine gaskets was a must. Doesn't the synthetic allow the gaskets to lose the swelling capacity ?

Waddaya get when you ask 10 Hudson guys what oil to use? 11 different opinions...

You're all right, everyone has an opinion. Our creator doesn't use a cookie to create us and it's one of the things that makes life interesting. Having said that, I'll stick my neck in the noose of differing ideas and opinions. Syn. oils are made to generate a larger margins of profit. The mineral base oil market is very competitive, so every one looks for a way to make themselves unique. There are only 2 sources for the poly alfa olefin synthesized base used by all who blend a syn. oil or a blend. It costs more money, so not all the blenders want to use it, although you may see a new player get into the syn oil busness as a result of competition converting their customer to thier syn. oil as a result of insulting TV adds. We're convinced that if it's on TV, its gotta be good, or as a result of His buddy's haveing changed and it'll work for him,too.

As most of us motorheads know, oil technology has improved by leaps and bounds since our pride and joys were produced and that to me warrants a little time spent researching what is best to use in the enviroment we live(geograrhically) in. All brands will tell us thiers' is the best. Years ago I stumbled across a manufacturer quietly, with no hype, no brag, no in your face insulting ads,no outrageous statemnets of being the best, that's making a lubricant line that will perform and exceed all of anyones expectations. Website- www.le-inc.com

Now another sore spot is oil additives. October 98 issue of Consumer Report has an article that everyone who has or is using oil additives should pull up and read.

The bottom line is: if it's what they hype it to be,ALL of the folk that make engine oil would be using it. Why should we pay 2 to 3 bucks a quart for a good quality oil and then 5 to 20 bucks for a pint or quart of magic to make it better? Most folk that have used it won't tell ya it didn't work,pride tells em not to.

You'll see in the above mentioned article that everyone of em have been taken to court by FTC, now that's the stuff that can be catergorized as "snake oil".

I'm very greatful for the freedoms we have, I praise the Lord and our men and women who are willing to give thier lives so we can keep it. Don't let the politcally correct crowd, the small radical groups that our government panders to, and the American civil liars union that's managed to steal some of our freedoms,and they aint done yet, take more from us. Did ya know that my 2 children don't say The Pledge Of Allegiance? Nuff said

I thank all for letting me share and not be sensored.

Kim

harry54 wrote:

Geoff, I appologize if your think I'm being critical. That was not my intention. On the contrary, I have tremendous respect for your opinions and that's why I asked. I really was looking forward to your answer. Thanks. I also want to say that your one of the reasons that the HET club is so enjoyable to me...... Happy Hudsoning.....

Harry, please rest assured that was not implying that you were being critical, and no apology necessary. I appreciate your thoughts, and I should couch my words in a less confrontational manner. It's just such a contentious topic, that I recognize that there will be myriad opinions on the matter! Best wishes,

Geoff.

I'm gonna stick my neck in the noose once more. I believe that most consumers don't understand base stocks for oils. Most all the brands buy from low bidder that just barely pass the API specs. Most of the oil companies are in the lube business as result of haveing taken the cash cow off the top and what's left over is used to blend oils and greases. Most of the brands basestock comes from a highly carbon inhibited base, such as Pennsylvania crudes, and is also coal country hence high carbon. Now, foriegn born crudes are much the same way, that being Suadi and South American crudes. A blender is only gonna clean up and use thier unique additive package enough to, again, pass API specs.

The thick material that forms in the sump and valve covers on ohvs' is that emulsified carbon. You'll also see this in ring groves,burnt carbon, not from fuel. Another item that helps to create this thick material, is oil seperating and that part dropping out. So the part of the oil that drops out combined with carbon coats and builds up in the sump and most flat areas. I'm sure you've heard of someone that found an old vehicle with low miles, everything looking good, pull the dipstick and wow, the oil is clean. Not so, seperation has occurred and likely submerged the pickup and a short distance after startup a rattle has begun. The common brands separate if it sits for very long.

The issue of oil turning dark is more the result of heat, exhaust blowby and raw fuel contamination. Only 5 to 7% is dirt.

Quality Detergent oils should carry contamintents in suspension until passing through a filtering system. The detergent combined with the other additives clean and emulsify the buildup inside of an old engine. I've heard guys say that detergent oils should not be used until rebuild,casue it'll break loose chunks and lodge in and plug oiling orfices. not true. Remember, we're in 21st century of oils. One of the drawbacks is, our engines' filtering system is not full flow, but partial flow.

Another item to consider is, straight or multi-viscosity. When our cars were produced, multi-vis technology was in its' infancy. It's come a long way since then and I'm convinced our engines can benefit from the multi-vis oils, rebuilt or not. It's easier on moving parts, bearings and such to cold start at a 10 or 15W, than having to start at a straight 30 or 40 wieght. It's harder on everthing.

Al this to say, my vote is for multi-viscosity, detergent oils with oem drain intervals,3 to5k or beginning of season and end, unless you live where winters are mild and ya get to drive your cars year round.(lucky dogs)

In my last post I meant to say my kids don't recite the Pledge in school, sad isn't it?

Once again, thanks for letting me share,

Kim