Rear Main Seal

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I am about to tear into my 232 to fix the rear main seal leak. I did something wrong the first time, anyone got any tips? The last time, I put the rope in the lower unit and used the crankshaft to mash it down, then cut it off even with the top of the block. For the cap, I used the crankshaft and hit it with a plastic hammer to mash it down, cut it even and installed the crankshaft and cap. I used a little RTV to cover the ends where they were cut before I put tkhe cap on. I think the leak is in this area on one side. I do not think the leak is from the side of the cap. I used RTV in these slots, then hammered in cotton. I could see the RTV coming out as I put the cotton in. I sure would hate to take this baby down a third time for the same reason!

Comments

  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    I'm not sure you want to be putting RTV anywhere in the engine. If it got loose and into the general oil circulation, it could lodge in a passage somewhere and gum up the works!
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    This RTV is Permatex Ultra Copper. It is used for Oil Pan gaskets and such. I did the RTV with the cotton rope at Doug Wildrick's suggestion, he builds a lot of these engines.
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    Going back to Walt Mordenti's suggestions, and I know this works from experience, you should form the rope seal into the cap, using a large socket or pipe, and instead of cutting the rope off 'even' with the mating surface you should leave a little sticking up (about .030-.050"). Then you should torque the cap in place, then remove the cap and cut off any of the 'flattened' areas. Do this several times. Then carefully remove this rope and set it aside. Do the same for the other rope, but leave it in the cap when done. Then RTV at the junction of these rope seals when you install the cap.



    Good Luck
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Ok i may be out here but arent you supposed to soak the rope seal in oil first before putting them in?? Ok my dad has a a ford victoia with a 312 in it. Did the rope seal and it leaked. Did the rubber one and it leaked with the rtv silicone on the ends. So he talked to a friend that owns a mechanic shop by his shop and told him to get some sealer and try that on the ends of the caps. I dont remember what it is called right off hand he let on of his friends use it and never returnded it go figure its made i think but cadlliac or chrysler not sure but its some good stuff once its on this stuff is very hard to get off when it sets. One other thing back in the day they had a tool for putting in rope seals into cars hard to find i think or somebody has one for you to borrow these are hard to get in perfect when the motor is still in the car. Posted some pics of the victoria in the ford forum here

    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7627
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    stffy64,



    Well the 'rope' seal I used I got from Dale Cooper, and it's some sort of braided graphite-type stuff. Really good quality material. Wouldn't absorb a thing if you tried.



    Seems like if you had a 'soaked' rope seal installed, you've just started your leak. I've seen pictures of the tool you describe for forming this seal initially. I just used a large socket (don't remember the size) that was slightly smaller than the diameter of the crank journal.



    I don't have a lot of Hudson experience, but I've done this main seal repair a couple of times, following Walt's advice (I remember even calling him from under the car one time) and it's worked perfectly for me. Good Luck
  • kamzack
    kamzack Senior Contributor
    If you will contact a Matco Tool rep, they have a tool called"sneaky pete". That's what it's for. He'll have order it. You use it to push old out and pull new in.

    Kim
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thanks for the advice guys, I put the crank in last night. I hope the post on using the oil was not right! I smeared a little STP on the rope I got from Dale cooper and on the crank before I put it together. It all looks good, but who knows..... Will let you know in a few days when I get it together and start it up.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Alexa,

    The seal you are using is the new graphtite type from Dale. You do not soak this seal in oil as you stated the seal is impregnated with a black substance that under heat and spin of the crank is supposed to form a nice seal and it should if installed properly. Be sure to follow the instructions from Hudsonguy as you need to install this seal correctly to get a good seal. The most common mistake is installing the seal then tapping it in then cutting the seal flush then when you make both halves and torque down you actually have a gap. Follow Walts advice cut the seal leaving extra on both the block side and the cap torque down the cap then remove and trim after compression then if you want a little RTV at the junctions then replace and torque to spec.

    These new seals are very good and if installed properly will not leak and last way longer than the original type of seal material.
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