Tinning Trunk Edge
Comments
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Pacemaker500 wrote:I have found that a little of the trunk edge has rusted under the seal. And it is really only quarter size chunks.
Is Tinning a good process to use to fill in these small spots?
And is Tinning the correct term?
Can you post a picture?
I've done all sorts of things with rust over the years. Cutting out and replacing is best. Tinning is a process you do before using lead. This may work but depends on the repair area and ability to remove rust. Years ago from time to time I'd also use a torch and float some brass into the area.0 -
There's also a process where some form of zinc is "blown" onto the area, and somehow builds up a solid panel after several passes (don't know exactly how it bridges the gaps). Being zinc, of course, your corrosion problems are over for the material itself, but I don't know how clean you have to have the surrounding areas. I think its a franchise type deal- bet you can find someone by asking "the car guys" in your area.0
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Mike (WA) wrote:There's also a process where some form of zinc is "blown" onto the area, and somehow builds up a solid panel after several passes (don't know exactly how it bridges the gaps). Being zinc, of course, your corrosion problems are over for the material itself, but I don't know how clean you have to have the surrounding areas. I think its a franchise type deal- bet you can find someone by asking "the car guys" in your area.
Here is the web site for this process.
http://www.rustbusters.com/index.html0 -
mars55 wrote:
Interesting stuff - painting over galvanized metal is not for the light hearted though as it presents a whole new set of problems for adhesion.
I also note they don't bother to include a picture of the backside of the repair...and it pays to read the fine print......By using this process and then finishing hte surface correctly, we guarantee NO RUST FOR 5 YEARS! Shown in photo is the fender ready for paint!...Also this part of their claim of product lets them off the hook... "...finishing hte surface correctly..." (NOTE: Typo above was direct from their web page!) As I stated above painting a galvanized surface presents challenges for adhesion of substrates and topcoats.
I've welded in patches that have lasted over 20 years on cars...not sure I'm ready for a "quick fix"....makes you wonder about what people who use this process do when they sell a car...do the advertise as "all metal", "no-filler", "no-rust"... that would be misleading, un-ethical if you ask me...and you didn't!0 -
Thanks all for the links.
I have come to find out that the process I was trying to remember is Leading. Most good body shops already do this.0 -
I'd clean it up real good and get the rust removed as much as possible. Then I'd treat thh area with Ospho or some other phosphoric acid based solution. Once that was done reacting, I'd use some Metal-to-Metal or other metal based filler. I have some other stuff in the shop but can't remember the name right now. I think you'd be happy with the results.
Good Luck
Steve0 -
We use patchpanels everywhere we can then shoot it with epoxy/cat 2:1 then use a primer/filler coat,4:1 hardner , sand and the paint will stick."we" is the school solution, Amazing what youcan learn at my age0
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