1952 Hornet Restoration
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During the long hot summer I didn't do anything to my car, I also was in Europe (Croatia/Slovenia/Italy & Greece) for one month and just recently returned to once again get started on '52 Hornet restoration. All sheet metal removed, blasted with most of the body work required completed and car has been primed in Dupont yellow. I would like to post some more pictures, however, having a problem; maybe at a later date.
Ray
Ray
0
Comments
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Hello Ray! The progress looks great! Hope to see you in Laughlin this Week End.
VicTor Z0 -
Ray- Funny you should post today- I was just about to PM you, as we hadn't heard from you in awhile. Great to see the progress on the Mighty Hornet! Keep us "posted". I had some fun with the '48 this summer, but now time to get it on blocks and give a few things some needed attention this winter. As Rosanne Rosannadana used to say, "Its always something!" Regards, Mike0
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Good Morning Victor,
Yesterday, I shipped both '53 & '52 Hornets to Phoenix, AZ so I am Hudsonless, however I am going to try and drive up to Laughlin to see again some nice club members and great American Historical Hudson collection of cars.
Ray0 -
Good Morning Mike,
See self explanatory message to Victor...Thanks for thinking about me...Well I'm back and committed to restoration of '52 Hornet I purchased from you...Don't know if this is correct forum, but I'll mention anyway...I don't have the expertise to do the following however, with recommendations and help from another good soul, we're going with Prestige complete crated rebuilt 350/391 Chevy engine, rebuilt Bowties Overdrive 700R4 level transmission, Fatmanfabs set-up, haven't decided on rear end yet, waiting recommendations, we'll be installing power disc brakes on all four wheels and with my pain in shoulder (only reason I sold Rudy Bennett's Black Beauty) another must is power steering...Will keep you posted; by the way I still have pictures of your car on hauler and in Vegas street earlier this summer.
Stay well,
Ray0 -
Hello Ray! Hope to see you in Laughlin. I also have the rebuilt Bowties Overdrive 700R4 level transmission. a Dany Springs Adapter to a 308, in a '54 club coupe. I hope to have the '54 ready for the W'stn Reg in Arizona in April.
VicTor0 -
Ray wrote:Good Morning Mike,
See self explanatory message to Victor...Thanks for thinking about me...Well I'm back and committed to restoration of '52 Hornet I purchased from you...Don't know if this is correct forum, but I'll mention anyway...I don't have the expertise to do the following however, with recommendations and help from another good soul, we're going with Prestige complete crated rebuilt 350/391 Chevy engine, rebuilt Bowties Overdrive 700R4 level transmission, Fatmanfabs set-up, haven't decided on rear end yet, waiting recommendations, we'll be installing power disc brakes on all four wheels and with my pain in shoulder (only reason I sold Rudy Bennett's Black Beauty) another must is power steering...Will keep you posted; by the way I still have pictures of your car on hauler and in Vegas street earlier this summer.
Stay well,
Ray
Kudos Ray, going to be a nice set-up. I'm just sorry I didn't order the Fatman airbag Stage II originally, now I'm going to have to weld on shock brackets and order the bags. Live and learn.
I have been struggling with the rear suspension issue for some time now. But an article in the recent Custom Rodder mag showed the installation of Airride Tech's triangulated 4 link set-up on a lowered Pontiac. It doesn't look that difficult at all and I'm now pretty sure that is the way I'm going with probably a Ford 9" (since my neighbor has a newly rebuilt center section for free!) with discs brakes. I am going to c-notch the rear frame, which is probably more radical for some folks here, but I want the extreme lowering ability. The article shows this procedure and I've talked with a couple guys around here that say its not a big deal at all, so long as you remember to be patient and do all your measuring and remeasuring before final welding. The article also shows using a Ford Mustang gas tank that doubles as a trunk floor (with only some perimeter filling in required)....very interesting idea. Not sure if they have one or make one to work with the EFI set-ups though. But this would allow me to place the air tank behind the rear seat in the trunk and still have plenty of trunk space. Might be cheaper than having a custom tank built from my old tank specs. With triangulated links you don't need a panhard bar to keep the axle centered and since I'm going to have to cut the inside of the wheel wells, I'll widen them a bit and give myself some extra room under there.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Jay :-)0 -
jsrail wrote:Kudos Ray, going to be a nice set-up. I'm just sorry I didn't order the Fatman airbag Stage II originally, now I'm going to have to weld on shock brackets and order the bags. Live and learn.
I have been struggling with the rear suspension issue for some time now. But an article in the recent Custom Rodder mag showed the installation of Airride Tech's triangulated 4 link set-up on a lowered Pontiac. It doesn't look that difficult at all and I'm now pretty sure that is the way I'm going with probably a Ford 9" (since my neighbor has a newly rebuilt center section for free!) with discs brakes. I am going to c-notch the rear frame, which is probably more radical for some folks here, but I want the extreme lowering ability. The article shows this procedure and I've talked with a couple guys around here that say its not a big deal at all, so long as you remember to be patient and do all your measuring and remeasuring before final welding. The article also shows using a Ford Mustang gas tank that doubles as a trunk floor (with only some perimeter filling in required)....very interesting idea. Not sure if they have one or make one to work with the EFI set-ups though. But this would allow me to place the air tank behind the rear seat in the trunk and still have plenty of trunk space. Might be cheaper than having a custom tank built from my old tank specs. With triangulated links you don't need a panhard bar to keep the axle centered and since I'm going to have to cut the inside of the wheel wells, I'll widen them a bit and give myself some extra room under there.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Jay :-)
If you're going to C-Notch the rear frame you should think about replacing the entire rear inner rail on both sides.
The inner "frame" rail is nothing more than 14/16 gauge sheet metal stamped and pinch-welded together. Note the picture - this is not solid frame material like newer cars and this will not hold up to a C-notch cut like that and still be structurally sound and take any abuse.
I'd go with a thick wall box tubing and completely replace the inner rail - and if you're going to to that you may want to think about narrowing the inner channel and tubbing the pan to get some knarly meats under there...0 -
Ray wrote:Good Morning Mike,
See self explanatory message to Victor...Thanks for thinking about me...Well I'm back and committed to restoration of '52 Hornet I purchased from you...Don't know if this is correct forum, but I'll mention anyway...I don't have the expertise to do the following however, with recommendations and help from another good soul, we're going with Prestige complete crated rebuilt 350/391 Chevy engine, rebuilt Bowties Overdrive 700R4 level transmission, Fatmanfabs set-up, haven't decided on rear end yet, waiting recommendations, we'll be installing power disc brakes on all four wheels and with my pain in shoulder (only reason I sold Rudy Bennett's Black Beauty) another must is power steering...Will keep you posted; by the way I still have pictures of your car on hauler and in Vegas street earlier this summer.
Stay well,
Ray
Ray, Black-Beauty, that was one hard Steering Hudson,BUT.
Check with Walt M. He has Rack-pinion on his 53,I saw it at the H.E.T. meet and it looks good.
I may go with this one on the 51-super-6. Pal Rudy.0 -
Good Morning to my fine Southern Gentleman friend, Mr. Rudy Bennett,
As I mentioned, the best Hudson I ever owned was the one you built and I finish comesticly...Boy do I mess that car, in fact if I didn't foolishly sell I still be driving it, my only problem was hard steering wich I believe was caused by oversize tires and mag wheel rims. I am thinking of attending Laughlin run and sure Walt (who always attends) will be there also, I'll then look at his rack & pinion; I am going to use Fatmanfab for '52 front.
May we all take a mintue (these guys are sure worth more than a mintue) a Happy Veterns Day to them and you all,
Ray0 -
rambos_ride wrote:If you're going to C-Notch the rear frame you should think about replacing the entire rear inner rail on both sides.
The inner "frame" rail is nothing more than 14/16 gauge sheet metal stamped and pinch-welded together. Note the picture - this is not solid frame material like newer cars and this will not hold up to a C-notch cut like that and still be structurally sound and take any abuse.
I'd go with a thick wall box tubing and completely replace the inner rail - and if you're going to to that you may want to think about narrowing the inner channel and tubbing the pan to get some knarly meats under there...
Rambo,
As always, your input is appreciated.
Ray0 -
VicTor Z wrote:Hello Ray! Hope to see you in Laughlin. I also have the rebuilt Bowties Overdrive 700R4 level transmission. a Dany Springs Adapter to a 308, in a '54 club coupe. I hope to have the '54 ready for the W'stn Reg in Arizona in April.
VicTor
Hi Vic,
May see you tomorrow morning and your '54 project next year, I'm hoping my '52 will be finished and I can also attend Arizona April meet, showing the results of restoration (not by me, as you can see from pictures I only did the dirty easy work) by highly qualified young man.
Ray0 -
jsrail wrote:Kudos Ray, going to be a nice set-up. I'm just sorry I didn't order the Fatman airbag Stage II originally, now I'm going to have to weld on shock brackets and order the bags. Live and learn.
I have been struggling with the rear suspension issue for some time now. But an article in the recent Custom Rodder mag showed the installation of Airride Tech's triangulated 4 link set-up on a lowered Pontiac. It doesn't look that difficult at all and I'm now pretty sure that is the way I'm going with probably a Ford 9" (since my neighbor has a newly rebuilt center section for free!) with discs brakes. I am going to c-notch the rear frame, which is probably more radical for some folks here, but I want the extreme lowering ability. The article shows this procedure and I've talked with a couple guys around here that say its not a big deal at all, so long as you remember to be patient and do all your measuring and remeasuring before final welding. The article also shows using a Ford Mustang gas tank that doubles as a trunk floor (with only some perimeter filling in required)....very interesting idea. Not sure if they have one or make one to work with the EFI set-ups though. But this would allow me to place the air tank behind the rear seat in the trunk and still have plenty of trunk space. Might be cheaper than having a custom tank built from my old tank specs. With triangulated links you don't need a panhard bar to keep the axle centered and since I'm going to have to cut the inside of the wheel wells, I'll widen them a bit and give myself some extra room under there.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Jay :-)
Thanks Jay ,
I sure will keep you advised of progress and will also post pictures as time passes. Presently the only part of restoration tha isn't confirmed is differntial, will be making final decision shortly.
Ray0 -
Dan, thanks for the tip, I'll incorporate that into my plans. You are a wealth of knowledge!0
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