Welder ?

Ron P wrote:

I am not a welder but I want to get a good one that is easy to learn with. I have melted some metal in my time (melted not welded) with a older lncolon stick welder but have watched people use the wire feed mig welders and it looks like fun and easy. A friend said I should look into a tig but I heard it is alot harder to learn but can weld anything that will weld. I would like something that at a later date I wont be saying I wish I would have gotten a bigger one. Some of you like Dan sound like you know about these things. Thanks for any advise, Ron

Hi Ron!

A lot depends on proposed use, and budget...

If you're just going to be doing sheet metal and mild steel up to 3/16" thick a 110v Shielded Gas MIG is a good bet. You can do stainless, and aluminum - but MIG creates splatter so doesnt work as well with softer alloys like stainless and aluminum if you need clean work.

I've never used a TIG yet, but they are the best when it comes to aluminum or stainless welding as there is no welding splatter. Again 110v shielded gas units are available for these as well - probably want to get the non-scratch start model...

If you're going to be doing major frame work or heavy welding a 220v is pretty much needed whether it is MIG or TIG

Dollar for dollar I think you're better off to go with a Miller welder.

I bought a Millermatic 110v mig welder a couple of years ago and have been using it extensively on my Hudson repairs with my only problem being I had to replace a liner. It was around 750.00 out the door with a good size argon/co2 bottle filled and in tow - a comparible Miller 110v TIG will start around 1100.00 and up new.

I've also heard TIG is harder to pick up - I belive this to be true because welding with a MIG is literally like "pouring" the weld on where the TIG you have to control the feed, current and placement.

IF you're just learning and want a good all purpose the Miller 135 is a good bet. If you've got the extra cash and patience to learn a TIG is ultimately more versatile.

Something to consider. Check with your local Jr. College to see if they have a basic welding course. A little experience using someone elses equipment will give you some insight as to what you will like. Sometimes you can make some good contacts in the welder sales departments through this outlet. Probbly be money well spent.

Dave w.

Some of the simple basics is the thicker the metal the bigger diameter wire. I have a friend that has a 110 unit and when he tries to go 035 it trips the breaker. I also vote for the Miller 220V.. It will eliminate the "wish I hadda".

I sell welding alloys and have an ideal wire for dirty, rusty greasy and painted metals. It's copper free mig wire that will weld through all of the situations above. The copper clad s70 wire has around 50 to 55thous. psi tensil strength, while the copper free has 91thous. psi tensile strenght. The copper clad wire is ideal for new steel fabrication is an ideal environment. The copper free will also go through oily greasy metals. I takes most of the prep out of making a repair. My product line is made for maintenance repairs. Having said this, it really works well on clean metals. It makes a welder who isn't very good or just starting look like he knows what he's doing. It's pentrates very, very well. I have rods that do the same thing as well. All of the product line is made in USA, that's important for me and should be for all Americans.

I'm not trying sell ya my product, couldn't resist telling there's more out there than what the local welding supply house has.

Two more issues: copper fumes are a health hazard and does not have the copper particulates that will clog the liner as Dan has mentioned. There's hardly any spatter and lays down a nice even, pretty weld. Everyone that has purchased it says they'll never go back to copper wire as long as they can get this wire.

I can ship it right to your door. If you want to see the spec sheet, send email address to: hudsonbaker@myexcel.com and a fax# and I'll send it to ya. I've not figured out how to use the scan to email yet, push me into it and I might try. I hope no one is offended by telling about my product line, but it seems to me that investing money in a good quality welder, then buying the lowest AWS speced wire doesn't make sense. I also have it in 10lb rolls. We have stainless, aluminum and tig wire as well.

Kim

alexa wrote:

Like others who have made posts, I took the community college course before buying a welder. I now own a good 220 volt lincoln sp 175 plus mig welder and have never regretted my choice. I made a extension cord for it that will plug into a dryer connector so I can plug into house current when necessary. I also have a set of oxy-ace bottles and victor Journeyman gauges. Add a cheap cracker box stick welder and I can do most jobs. I recently acquired an ancient miller dc welder with a gasoline engine to run it. Works pretty well for nasty repair jobs. Go with 220 volts if you want to avoid future regrets. I know a couple friends who bought 115 then traded up.

While I'll agree a 220V welder is more versatile in welding application - I'd argue that for general welding of sheet metal and occaisonal heavier stuff the 110V is a better fit size and pricewise for the hobbiest and you can literally roll it anywhere you can get a 110V plug (I can see some of you thinking of welding while watching TV in the living room sitting on the couch drinking a beer )

Of course the dream shop someday would have the gammut of welders, 110V, 220V, TIG, Stick, Oxy-Act, Plasma Cutter, Stitch Welder, Spot Welders...you get the point!