Vacuum Pump Testers

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Any recommendations of basic vacuum pump testers?



I am not getting the fuel to flow using the newly rebuilt pump. It is instlled correctly. I used threaded stud bolts to help line it up and a mirror to see that the lever was properly under the cam lobe before I tightened it.



Since the first owner installed a filter on the fender, I opened it, checked it (was clean), filled the pint tank and I have 10 gallons of new gas in the tank.



I want to verify where the problem is. I can get it to run by dripping gas into the carb.



I am just not getting fuel to the intake filter screen on the carb.

Comments

  • nick s
    nick s Senior Contributor
    if you have not addressed the tank and lines, it is advisable that you do so. Flushing and sealing the tank will prevent many headaches and clogged filters and possibly lines. having 20 feet of potential air leaks and/or obstructions in the 57 year old corroded lines is never advisable. isolate your problem by dipping a line from the pump to a can of gas to verify that the pump through carb is operational. if all is well there add the filter arrangement into the mix. assuming the engine bay components are up to snuff, you have a leak or obstruction in the line or pick-up tube at the tank a leak can prevent the pump from pulling a prime and therefore you won't necessarily detect gas from the leak. while addreessing the lines its a good idea to place an inline filter near the tank (besides being cheap, the plastic see through are quite helpful for trouble shooting later)
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    nick s wrote:
    if you have not addressed the tank and lines, it is advisable that you do so. Flushing and sealing the tank will prevent many headaches and clogged filters and possibly lines. having 20 feet of potential air leaks and/or obstructions in the 57 year old corroded lines is never advisable. isolate your problem by dipping a line from the pump to a can of gas to verify that the pump through carb is operational. if all is well there add the filter arrangement into the mix. assuming the engine bay components are up to snuff, you have a leak or obstruction in the line or pick-up tube at the tank a leak can prevent the pump from pulling a prime and therefore you won't necessarily detect gas from the leak. while addreessing the lines its a good idea to place an inline filter near the tank (besides being cheap, the plastic see through are quite helpful for trouble shooting later)



    I was afraid of that. I'll make a trip to the fuel line section and buy several feet to run the test.



    Could one also blow out the line using compressor from the engine compartment back to the tank? Starting with only a few PSI then move up to about 7? Just a thought.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    You can use compressed air and/or vacuum to check gas lines. Just be careful.
  • SuperDave
    SuperDave Senior Contributor
    You have been given some good advice. I would like to add the following. Make sure the gas cap is off when you pressureize and do it outside! Also check the connections under the car near the tank. Many have had rubber hoses spliced in and a small leak will cause the pump to draw air instead of gas. Please be careful with loose gasoline and the related combustible fumes.

    But have fun!

    Dave w
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thanks for all the advice. I removed the line from the carb and blew compressed air at 3 PSI back into the gas tank (with cap off). Got decent gurgling sound.



    I then used a marine squeeze pump to recharge the line. Next, I reattached the line to the carb and tried to turn it over.



    I now have fuel in the bowl so there was some line bloackage but nothing is seen spryaing out of the jet.



    It will run as long as I drip fuel strait into the barrel or srapy starting fluid in as well.



    So I am guessing I need a carb rebuild. With Dave K no longer rebuilding, who is a good Hudson rebuilder? I will need new gaskets above and below the heat shield when I reinstall.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    One thing at a time! You KNOW that there is fuel in the carburetor bowl, or you ASSUME there is, because the glass bowl at the fuel pump has gas in it?



    No sense in rebuilding the carb unless it really is malfunctioning!



    Another question: when you mounted the fuel pump to the block, did you use the correct spacer (that had come off the previous pump)?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Sounds like you may still have a clog somewhere in the lines. Try alternating between pressure and suction until you get a good flow. I had a simmilar problem this summer and wound up replacing the fuel line and pump as well as having my carbs rebuilt. All better now.
  • dwardo99
    dwardo99 Expert Adviser
    You might just as well make up a complete new fuel line and install it. It's not hard and that way you know it's good. The old one may be rusted to the point where it's about to leak even if you get it cleaned out.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Greetings from Colorado!



    Laquer thinner makes an excellent medium for cleaning out old fuel lines. It WILL destroy rubber. I filled the lines with laquer thinner and let them sit for several days. I then used a sacraficial suction gun [it took out the internal rubber seals] to move the fluid through the lines. It worked well with the exception of the pickup tube in the tank, which was blocked almost solid. For this, I took a short piece of welding rod, made a short bend in the end, chucked it in a cordless drill and worked moving it in and out, through the pipe. Once it was clear, I used laquer thinner to finish the job.



    Please bear in mind, I removed the fuel lines/tank from the car and did all of this OUTSIDE the shop! Safety!



    As was mentioned, new lines would not be that difficult and would go far with your piece of mind....



    George T.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Jon B wrote:
    One thing at a time! You KNOW that there is fuel in the carburetor bowl, or you ASSUME there is, because the glass bowl at the fuel pump has gas in it?



    No sense in rebuilding the carb unless it really is malfunctioning!



    Another question: when you mounted the fuel pump to the block, did you use the correct spacer (that had come off the previous pump)?



    Yes, used spacer (new one actually) when I reinstalled the pump.



    I am getting fuel from the pump to the carb. I left off one test where I turn it over with the pump line off the carb and pump fuel to a catch bottle.



    I know I am getting fuel in the carb because I took the filter screen, pushed the linkage and saw the opening in the bowl top open and there was fuel inside.



    Since I see nothing spray when the linkage is pushed (while trying to crank or with key off), this is what lead me to think I have clogged jets thus a rebuild is needed.



    If I can get it narrowed down better I would. I honestly do not mind getting it rebuilt so I know everyhting has been checked and is OK.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    dwardo99 wrote:
    You might just as well make up a complete new fuel line and install it. It's not hard and that way you know it's good. The old one may be rusted to the point where it's about to leak even if you get it cleaned out.



    I do not own steel tube benders. The local brake shop is scheduled to do this for me once I can drive it there. They are also going to pull the brakes, replace all the srpings, install new cylinders, resurface drums and put in new shoes (yet to be ordered).



    If I can only get fuel to spray from the jet in the carb......
  • kamzack
    kamzack Senior Contributor
    There is a a rebuilder that only does vintage carb and especially Carters.

    Daytona Parts in New smyrna Beach, Fla. When you send it specify show quality or not, cause they will make it look and perform at near perfection. Even the lady who answers the phone can rattle off what you have and what is correct for your specific engine, they are Hudnuts too. It's a father and son business. The turn around is usually 2 weeks and will warrant thier work. My opinion, it's the only place to send it.

    Hope this helps and encourages,

    Kim
  • kamzack
    kamzack Senior Contributor
    I'm curious to know how you made out with your headliner issues. Were you able to get the pieces needed to tuck the edges into?

    I'm not nosy, I really enjoy reading the progress folk share with thier Hudsons and is of some encouagement to me.

    I've a 50 Commodore 8with the engine at the machine shop waiting in line to get rods repoured, tappets resurfaced, seats fitted with stelite seats, bring it home and finish and install. Meanwhile I work a little at a time on the engine compartment cleaning and getting read to paint. I can't afford to paint the whole car this winter, maybe next.

    Thanks for letting me share,

    Kim
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    kamzack wrote:
    There is a a rebuilder that only does vintage carb and especially Carters.

    Daytona Parts in New smyrna Beach, Fla. When you send it specify show quality or not, cause they will make it look and perform at near perfection. Even the lady who answers the phone can rattle off what you have and what is correct for your specific engine, they are Hudnuts too. It's a father and son business. The turn around is usually 2 weeks and will warrant thier work. My opinion, it's the only place to send it.

    Hope this helps and encourages,

    Kim



    Thank you for the source lead. They will get a call after Turkey Day.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Have you removed the top of the carb to be sure fuel is in the carb bowl or just removed the brass cap over the filter screen. The needle could be stuck and not leting fuel into the carb. Or the check balls may be stuck not letting fuel from acc. pump into carb throat.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Sounds like the problem is in the carb. I would do as Billy K suggests. I pulled the top off the carb on my 54 coupe and found the Leather on the accelerator pump was hard as a rock. Took one out of another carb and cleaned the crud out of the float bowl, now it runs fine. If you are careful you can usually get away with taking the top off without needing a new gasket.
    Bob
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Billy K.TN. wrote:
    Have you removed the top of the carb to be sure fuel is in the carb bowl or just removed the brass cap over the filter screen. The needle could be stuck and not leting fuel into the carb. Or the check balls may be stuck not letting fuel from acc. pump into carb throat.



    Yes, I was able to take the top off the carb bowl (gasket intact). I cleaned carefully. Pump parts were not dried out (but what do I know). Fuel is getting into the bowl and I have seen the needle work when I took the brass cap off the filter screen.



    I do not know how to verify the function of the check balls. That step has reached my limited understanding of carburated engines.
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