Stepdown Discs?

RG53Hornet
RG53Hornet Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Hello…

I’m looking to do a front disc brake update on my 53 Hornet. I found references to a 91 Lincoln rear disc setup being used in the archives. I will use one of the universal street-rod type firewall mounts for the master and the booster. I’ve had this car 3 years and I think its time to “get’r done”. I don’t think I will mind the manual steering, but I remember the stock brakes my 1950 Chevy truck had before I upgraded to disc, scary around today’s “hurry up and then stop” drivers. If anybody has more details on the Lincoln swap they could post or e-mail to me, it would help out.

Thanks.

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    :) Hi:


    This question has been asked several times. From the responses shown on this formum, there are several folks who install the disc brake conversions. I am not sure if there are other sources, but I know from discussion with Wes Kitchens and others Bil Labud's kit is a bolt in operation that can be reversed back to stock by unbolting and replacing stock parts. BTW Wes is running a Hi Horsepower V8 in his Stepdown.
    Stepdown_Disc_Brake_Kit.jpg
    What you get from Bill Labud in his conversion Kit
    DiscbrakeInstalled
    Installed on Wes' Hudson Sedan

    Contact Bill Labud, 38049 Rolling Acres Rd., Lady Lake, FL 32159 Ph: 352-753-7229. He has it perfected! Uses stock Hudson Master Cylinder, Easily reversible back to drum brakes


    Good Luck
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    That looks like a really nice setup. When I do my conversion I will be giving Bill a call.



    Thanks
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    On my 54 Super Wasp Hollywood, currently under restoration; removed the PS and PB. Acquired a '91 Lincoln Town Car rear end complete (remove the axles first, then the brackets, calipers, rotors, shoes, etc.). Remove (from drums) and machine the Hudson hubs just slightly so the stock rotors will fit over them. Turn/cut the old rotors or replace w/new. Clean and paint everything to look cool. Begin the reassembly, including new, used or rebuilt calipers (we used the old ones-not leaking). You'll need longer brake lines; part number _______ is in an old issue of WTN, maybe 18-24 months back. We used a new Cherokee master cylinder and proportioning valve from the junk yard - no booster! Brakes are great. Not a difficult project. Good luck! John
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Hi Robert! I am totally pleased with my "LaBuds" conversion. He supplies all the parts you'll need, and supplies easy to follow instructions. It took me 2 hours, start to finish, to install both sides. Of course, since it was my first time with it, it took longer because I was checking EVERY part, and EVERY clearance as I went. Now, that I've done it, and see that Mr. LaBud really has "got it right", I could easily install both sides in under an hour. If I was at the racetrack, where you have to do everything in "warp-speed", I could probably complete it in under 15 minutes, excluding bleeding!

    If you haven't already gotten your mastercylinder, and booster, here's another idea you might want to consider..... I made a bracket, and mounted a new mastercylinder, in the same location as the original. This way, I could still use all the original Hudson stuff, the brake pedal, pushrod,etc. I went one step further, and installed disc brakes on the rear too. If you go the 4 wheel disc way, you'll need to make sure you get a mastercylinder that has a 1 and 1/8 in. bore, instead of the traditional 1in.to move more fluid. I got this from "Master Power Brake". Attached is a picture of the installed mastercylinder. Notice, I still used the original "Hudson" brake pedal assembly. I made all new, stainless steel brakelines for the entire system.(optional) The 2 blue things, are residual valves. For disc brakes, you need a 2lb. residual valve(blue) located as close to the mastercylinder as possible. On drum brakes, a 10lb. (red)is required. The only thing I don't like about this picture, is the (WHITE) piece of coathanger that's holding the pedal onto the shaft. "DO NOT DO THIS AS A PERMANENT PART". I used the coathanger as a "temporary fix" while I was taking the pedal on and off several times, checking all the clearances. I used the coathanger wire because the snap-ring is a real booger to be taking on and off several times, and I didn't want to damage it. The fun that I've had with "MODIFYING" my car, is to install Brand "X" stuff, but use as much "HUDSON" stuff as I can to make the Brand "X" stuff work. One other suggestion......get a 3 ring binder, with A-Z dividers. EVERY change you make to your car, DOCUMENT IT! On any part change, put down the "HUDSON" part # you took off, and the new part # you install. Keep this book with the car whereever you go. It will be priceless if you need to repair something, and don't remember what you used. And besides, if you ever want to sell the car to somebody, that book ought to get you a few "extra bucks" for the car! I've tried to take as many "before and after" pictures of everything I've done as possible. I you want any pictures, or info..... wkitchens@midsouth.rr.com
  • RG53Hornet
    RG53Hornet Senior Contributor
    Wow!

    Lots of information to digest. Being somewhat “frugal” I was leaning toward the Lincoln swap but the “LaBuds” kit looks very complete in the pictures. If I factor in the cost of rebuilding the junkyard parts and the machine work, it may be a wash. Unless I can find a Lincoln in the salvage yard that had a gentle life. Sounds like both ways work well, so it may come down to a price vs. availability of parts. Thanks for the quick responses and pictures. Glad I discovered this forum!
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Wes and Ken thanks for the detailed answer. It really helps those of us who want to tackle the conversion get an idea of whats involved before we rip everything out and then say ooops what now.



    I am pulling my motor for a rebuild so while everything is exposed and easy to get to I would like to do this conversion. Wes, I will send my email address as I would really like to get a set of those before and after shots.



    I am also thinking of maybe going 4 wheel disc does the same kit work on the back or does Bill have a kit for the rear. Finding a lincoln rear end is pretty hard and I would prefer new parts when stopping my car is involved. Does the kit come with the residual valves or do you have to supply them? Do you also need a front to rear proportioning valve?



    Thanks,



    Sean
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I don't believe the kit had the residual valve. But it did come with EVERYTHING you will need for the conversion at the wheels. I also prefer new parts, so I had a "NEW" Ford, 9in rear made, by Currie Enterprises in Ca. This way is NOT for the "frugal" or someone trying to cut corners. I figured by the time I found what rear would fit,found one with the right gear ratio, put in new bearings and seals, welded up the spring perches and panhard bar bracket....I would have a lot more time and money in it than it was worth to me. I sent my "original" rearend to "Currie", explained the "quirks" that the Hudson rear has, and had them built me one, with exactly the stuff I wanted......Posi-track, 3.25 ratio,Explorer disc brakes. It's a tight fit for the tires between the framerail, and the fenderskirts, and I wanted to make sure it fit right. I "donated" the original rearend to the Ca. Hudson guys. The "quirks" I'm talking about are....the spring perches are "NOT" at a 90 degree angle with the axle, and the panhard bar bracket has to be welded on so that the u-bolt can fit between the bracket, and the axle housing. While the rearend was being made, I stripped the underside, undercoated, and ordered all new bushings from K-Gap. Attached is the finished "NEW" rearend. The price of the rearend was $2500. I know, that's too pricey for a lot of people, BUT, it fit exactly right, the first time. All parts are new, and easily accessible "over the counter" at any parts store. The fact that the entire transformation went off without a hitch, saved me well over $2500 in cuss-words and aggravation alone!(ha) Attached is a picture of the finished project.

    About the brakes...I ordered a "proportioning valve" along with the mastercylinder.



    I need to get with Ken Cates, and come up with a "one stop shop" of all the changes I've made, to give people an idea on their projects. My changes may not be for everybody, but, like Frank Sanatra sang........." I Did It My Way"!
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Where did you get the rearend? Who do I contact to have one made?

    What did the $2500 buy? Thanks alot, I am rodding a 49 commodore coupe.

    I will be glad to share what I do along the way.
  • essexcoupe3131
    essexcoupe3131 Senior Contributor
    this looks like anice rear end, I know what you are talking about buying something of the rack as when it goes pear shape alot aof the time people just dont want to know

    Mike
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