Bad Light Switch??

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I turn the light switch to Parking, I have Parking on front and one really bright read bulb (other totally blown and 10 on order).



I turn the light switch to Headlight and I lose the parking lights on the front. Rear still burns brightly (like brake).



I know that that are multiple connection points to look at and clean. I have been doing one a week (taking a part, cleaning with wire brush, chemicals using new washers and nuts, reassembling).



That being said, since I lose the parking lights when I turn the switch to the next position, I think I have a bad switch to start with.



Am I thin\king correctly?

Comments

  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The park lamps are only on with the first position of the switch. Rear lamps are on with both positions. sounds like you have a blown bulb on one side at the rear, and the wrong one in the other side. do your brakes light work?

    Geoff.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Well, of course one way to ascertain whether the switch is the problem, is to "jump" the batt terminal on the switch, with various and sundry other terminals on the switch, using a double-alligator jumper cable. If the lights now come on correctly, you definitely have a bad switch



    If not, then you may have a bad wire from the switch to the lights, or you may have bad lamps themselves.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Hi,



    I had a similar problem on my '39 112 and it was it basically two problems.



    The first was that someone had put a wrong bulb in one of the rear lights (6v in a 12v system) and the second was that the switch was also faulty. I replaced both and the lights are now fine.



    Paul
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:
    The park lamps are only on with the first position of the switch. Rear lamps are on with both positions. sounds like you have a blown bulb on one side at the rear, and the wrong one in the other side. do your brakes light work?

    Geoff.



    I did not know that. I figured they operated the way most do today. So lights on front are good.:) Thank you for explaining the proper operation. It is not explained int he operators manual.



    I know one rear bulb is completly out (not installed). I have ten bulbs on order with the local parts store (1154). Then it would seem that I have an incorrect bulb or there is some issue with the wiring. I'll clean that block next.



    No, the brake lights do not work. Bulb, wiring, wiring block or switch issue.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    The brake light switch may be bad. It is on the rear of the master cylinder. One wire to it should be hot all the time.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    The brake light operation is completely separate from the headlight switch of course, and you'd want to troubleshoot the brakes independently. Go to the brakelight switch (it is attached to the master cylinder I believe; mine is an earlier model with a different type of brakelight switch). "Jump" the two terminals (one goes to the battery, the other to the brake lights). Do the lights come on now?



    If not, is the "batt' terminal at the switch, 'live'? You can buy a cheap circuit tester at your auto store -- it's well worth the small investment. Make sure it works on a 6-volt system. Touch the alligator clip to the battery terminal on the brakelight switch, and the prod of the tester to the frame or other ground. Does it light?



    If the batt terminal is live, but "jumping" the switch produces no taillights, you probably have one of two problems: bad taillight bulbs, or bad wiring.



    There is also another possibility. Does your car have turnsignals?



    If so, I believe the Pacemaker's turn signals operated through the brakelights, not their own bulb (someone with a Pacemaker can correct me, here!). If that's so, then the wire from the brakelight switch runs through the turn signal switch on its way to the lights. So the turnsignal switch itself could be at fault. You might want to test the signals before going any further.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    The turn signals have their own bulb. Unless they have been changed to later model.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Billy K.TN. wrote:
    The turn signals have their own bulb. Unless they have been changed to later model.



    My Pacemaker does have the turn signal unit installed (but no flasher under the dash - on order).



    So I guess that means there is more to the story. I'll start on it once the new bulbs and flasher get in.
  • kamzack
    kamzack Senior Contributor
    I'd go parts store and ask them for a hydralic brake light switch one eighth pipe thread with two male prongs. A good parts man will know what you're talking about and get out his old catalogue with pictures. I always go to Napa, as they are quite a bit more educated and experienced and not just clerks with little automtive knowledge.

    I wasted my time one Sunday afternoon and went to one of those big name mills and asked for a set of points for a delco window type distributator. The reaction: What are points and what's the application,I couldn't tell him it's for a 60 Studebaker V8. So I told him 66 chevy V8. He still had to ask someone for help. They handed me a cheap foreign made set, that didn't last a thousnad miles. When I told hime they are for a Studebaker, what's a Studebaker and this was a guy older than me and I'm 57, go figure. I'd go to Napa.

    T he trouble shoot info above is very correct. Itest the barke light switch after having used the test light as suggested above, and when I'm convinced I have juice there, I use a short piece of 10 gage wire, pull the female plugs off the switch on the end of the M/C and stick each end of the wire into each to the female ends of the wires you've pulled off the said switch. Then roll out from under and see if brake lights are on.

    Thanks for letting me share,

    Kim
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Pacemaker500 wrote:
    I turn the light switch to Parking, I have Parking on front and one really bright read bulb (other totally blown and 10 on order).



    I turn the light switch to Headlight and I lose the parking lights on the front. Rear still burns brightly (like brake).



    I know that that are multiple connection points to look at and clean. I have been doing one a week (taking a part, cleaning with wire brush, chemicals using new washers and nuts, reassembling).



    That being said, since I lose the parking lights when I turn the switch to the next position, I think I have a bad switch to start with.



    Am I thin\king correctly?



    Bud Light Switch ?? I have always drank Bud Light, Good Beer. :) Ron
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Billy K.TN. wrote:
    The turn signals have their own bulb. Unless they have been changed to later model.



    Front or rear? I can only find one mounting clip for a bulb in the rear housing.



    Should there be two bulbs here? One for turn signal, one for running lights and the other for brake lights (one bulb being a dual element).



    If so, then something was changed on this car and I will now need to find the brackets and wire.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    If the turn signals were factory installed you should have 2 bulbs in each tail light. One of the bulbs double contact for brake and tail. The other a single contact for turn.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    After-market turn signals incorporated a set of contacts in the switch which utilized the brake lights, instead of having to install an extra bulb in the rear. These diverted the brake light circuit through the turn signal switch, so that when the brakes were applied, and the turn signal operated, it effectively switched off the brake light, but allowed the flasher to send it's signal down the brake light wire. You will need to ascertain what sort of turn signal switch you have. Generally, if it has a whole heap of wires coming from it, it works as above. If you had seperate lights for indicators, you only need three wires to the turn signal usually. Good luck,

    Geoff.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    The 52 Hudsons had the type switch Geoff is speaking of. 7 wires from the switch I believe.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    One of the most obvious problems with lights not working is bad grounds. You gotta make sure that you have very good grounds at each light and from battery to chassis.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Billy K.TN. wrote:
    If the turn signals were factory installed you should have 2 bulbs in each tail light. One of the bulbs double contact for brake and tail. The other a single contact for turn.



    There is only one bulb and braket in each taillight assembly. My mother-in-law does not remember if her father had it added later or if it came with them installed.



    I'll go check all the wires later today.
  • Hudsy Wudsy
    Hudsy Wudsy Senior Contributor
    Back breifly to the headlights for a moment - before I'd even test the light switch or remove a headlight bulb, I'd turn the headlights to the on position and depress the high beam switch (on floor) repeatedly. I know from experience that the contacts within these switches can get very corroded. If the headlights suddenly light while depressing the switch, replace the switch. They're cheap and plentiful. Do you know how to test circuits and switches for continuity? You'll want to eventualy. A multi-meter (or volt meter) is an inexpensive and nearly indispensible tool. Get one from Radio Shack (or many other places) and learn how to use it for testing resistance and continuity. It will also test volts and amps, but you don't have to know everything there is to know about electricity to get a lot of use out it.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    James P. wrote:
    Back breifly to the headlights for a moment - before I'd even test the light switch or remove a headlight bulb, I'd turn the headlights to the on position and depress the high beam switch (on floor) repeatedly. I know from experience that the contacts within these switches can get very corroded. If the headlights suddenly light while depressing the switch, replace the switch. They're cheap and plentiful. Do you know how to test circuits and switches for continuity? You'll want to eventualy. A multi-meter (or volt meter) is an inexpensive and nearly indispensible tool. Get one from Radio Shack (or many other places) and learn how to use it for testing resistance and continuity. It will also test volts and amps, but you don't have to know everything there is to know about electricity to get a lot of use out it.



    OK. Yes, I understand the basics of circuitry and can use a tester. I have a spare dimmer switch and headlights are working fine.



    New bulbs now installed on rear units. I have running/tail lights. A short does exist somewhere as the left will light even when the bracket is not in the unit.



    No brake lights when brake pedal is pressed. So that job is now on the list.
  • Hudsy Wudsy
    Hudsy Wudsy Senior Contributor
    Please forgive me. I just reread your first post and realize now that I mistakenly thought that you were having a headlight problem in addition to your tail light/brake light difficulties.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    No problem. They do require a third press sometimes to go from high to low. Sometimes tehy go out when the switch is pressed. So I have a NOS to install. I am looking for a second to keep as a spare.



    I will be upgrading to 6V Halogen's later. But right now they work are a decently aligned.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:
    After-market turn signals incorporated a set of contacts in the switch which utilized the brake lights, instead of having to install an extra bulb in the rear. These diverted the brake light circuit through the turn signal switch, so that when the brakes were applied, and the turn signal operated, it effectively switched off the brake light, but allowed the flasher to send it's signal down the brake light wire. You will need to ascertain what sort of turn signal switch you have. Generally, if it has a whole heap of wires coming from it, it works as above. If you had seperate lights for indicators, you only need three wires to the turn signal usually. Good luck,

    Geoff.



    The turn signals are the seven wire after market.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    ...In that case, the output wire from brakelight switch leads to the turnsignal switch, not directly to the brakelights themselves. So...



    A. If the turnsignal switch is NOT engaged, and you hit the brakes, the power travels directly to BOTH left and right taillight 'brake' filaments (the brighter of the two taillight filaments).



    B. If the turnsignal lever is in the 'left' or 'right' position when the brakes are applied, the power from the brakelight switch feeds the appropriate left or right tailight brake filament THROUGH THE FLASHER (so that the light blinks on and off). The opposite taillight brake filament is ALSO fed from the brakelight switch, but NOT through the blinker, so it remains 'on' steadily.



    C. If the turnsignal lever is in the 'left' or 'right' position and you DON'T apply the brakes, power from the battery feeds either left or right taillight brake filament.



    All three scenarios are directed by circuitry within the turnsignal switch. So if you 'jump' the two terminals on the brakelight switch with a small wire, and the brakelights DON'T come on, then you have a problem either with the wiring somewhere, or in the turnsignal switch itself.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Jon B wrote:
    ...In that case, the output wire from brakelight switch leads to the turnsignal switch, not directly to the brakelights themselves. So...



    A. If the turnsignal switch is NOT engaged, and you hit the brakes, the power travels directly to BOTH left and right taillight 'brake' filaments (the brighter of the two taillight filaments).



    B. If the turnsignal lever is in the 'left' or 'right' position when the brakes are applied, the power from the brakelight switch feeds the appropriate left or right tailight brake filament THROUGH THE FLASHER (so that the light blinks on and off). The opposite taillight brake filament is ALSO fed from the brakelight switch, but NOT through the blinker, so it remains 'on' steadily.



    C. If the turnsignal lever is in the 'left' or 'right' position and you DON'T apply the brakes, power from the battery feeds either left or right taillight brake filament.



    All three scenarios are directed by circuitry within the turnsignal switch. So if you 'jump' the two terminals on the brakelight switch with a small wire, and the brakelights DON'T come on, then you have a problem either with the wiring somewhere, or in the turnsignal switch itself.



    Good directions. I'll try them after Turkey Day.
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    Pacemaker500 wrote:
    No problem. They do require a third press sometimes to go from high to low. Sometimes tehy go out when the switch is pressed. So I have a NOS to install. I am looking for a second to keep as a spare.



    I will be upgrading to 6V Halogen's later. But right now they work are a decently aligned.



    The dimmer switch is a Standard Motor Products DS-40 or NAPA DS101.
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