transmission parts help

[Deleted User] · December 2006

i did use the search but could not find answers so i fugured it would be alright to re-post under a different title.

now that i have the overdrive transmission totally disassembled, and i have the complete service manual along with a competent tranny guy from the past, helping, i need some sources for a couple parts.

countershaft or cluster gear bushings

reverse shaft bushing

"blocking ring" (he's not sure what it should be called but its to keep the operator from crashing gears before the syncro;s have a chance to catch up)

the transmission case sez " ideal transmission" in the casting. its out of a 48 commodore 6 that had vaccum shift. i've got the flywheel, new clutch assembly and the new mounting kit assembly and after the transmission is re-assembled its time to install the whole assembly back into the restored body of the 46.

can anyone out there point me in the direction of those above mentioned parts ? please ?

australia might be a little too far to have to ship them from.

[Deleted User] · December 2006

I'm in the midst of some other pressing situations, but will be on the same hunt soon.

This much I have already decided and answers two thirds of your questions.

The counter shaft bushings, you might as well take to a competent machine shop. As well as the reverse idler bushing. You also need to measure the diameter of your shafts, as they may need built up and remachined or just have another machined to replace them. You won't find any of those items new unless you get real lucky on e-bay, and even then you are at the mercy of the seller's accuracy in reporting what they have.

There is a good chance the synchro mechanism is interchangable with the T-86, or 2 lever transmission. I haven't had time to verify that and is what I need to verify for my own project as soon as I can get to it. If it is interchangable, I have a source of new syncronizers.

Another important item is the wear shims at the ends of the countershaft, I havent' had an opportunity to check those out either.

Not alot of good news, but at least bushing manufacture and replacement are within the scope of a good machine shop.

Mark

[Deleted User] · December 2006

`Hudsonator wrote:

I'm in the midst of some other pressing situations, but will be on the same hunt soon.

This much I have already decided and answers two thirds of your questions.

The counter shaft bushings, you might as well take to a competent machine shop. As well as the reverse idler bushing. You also need to measure the diameter of your shafts, as they may need built up and remachined or just have another machined to replace them. You won't find any of those items new unless you get real lucky on e-bay, and even then you are at the mercy of the seller's accuracy in reporting what they have.

There is a good chance the synchro mechanism is interchangable with the T-86, or 2 lever transmission. I haven't had time to verify that and is what I need to verify for my own project as soon as I can get to it. If it is interchangable, I have a source of new syncronizers.

Another important item is the wear shims at the ends of the countershaft, I havent' had an opportunity to check those out either.

Not alot of good news, but at least bushing manufacture and replacement are within the scope of a good machine shop.

Mark

so if i have one set of bushings made, i should probably have a half dozen done at the same time ? anyone else need them ? i would guess they would need to be reamed after installing as they seem to be quite tightly pressed in. . .

[Deleted User] · December 2006

I would only have them made for the single job. I also wouldn't have them made without knowing if the countershaft shaft was within tolerance or not.

I'm expecting you to need both the bushings and a shaft.

Here's a little tidbit, I have been through all this with a 2-lever in which I could find every part I needed. I bought a new reverse idler shaft, only to find out the old one was better and tighter, but a hair less than the manual called for.

Moral of the story, I'll have my shafts made from now on - where I at least have some quality control over them.

Mark

[Deleted User] · December 2006

`Hudsonator wrote:

I would only have them made for the single job. I also wouldn't have them made without knowing if the countershaft shaft was within tolerance or not.

I'm expecting you to need both the bushings and a shaft.

Here's a little tidbit, I have been through all this with a 2-lever in which I could find every part I needed. I bought a new reverse idler shaft, only to find out the old one was better and tighter, but a hair less than the manual called for.

Moral of the story, I'll have my shafts made from now on - where I at least have some quality control over them.

Mark

i just ordered the 4 ball bearings and the brass to make the bushings. the only stumbling block is the REAR SEAL & of course the "BLOCKING RING". the dang seal is 3/4" thick or deep. can i use two loaded lip seals back to back to replace this monster ? or what has been done by others ? and the blocking ring ? anyone have any good ideas for that ?

thanks again for all the help.

davidh

PAULARGETYPE · December 2006

Before You Go Making Those Parts Why No Contact Al Saffrahn From Arizona He's The Overdrive Guy For The Club He's Got Alot Of Parts Maybe He Can Fix You Up

[Deleted User] · December 2006

PAULARGETYPE wrote:

Before You Go Making Those Parts Why No Contact Al Saffrahn From Arizona He's The Overdrive Guy For The Club He's Got Alot Of Parts Maybe He Can Fix You Up

thats the name i was looking for. thanks much.

mars55 · December 2006

For the rear Seal you might try these numbers:

NAPA 15620

National 10684S

Victor 49318

[Deleted User] · December 2006

PAULARGETYPE wrote:

Before You Go Making Those Parts Why No Contact Al Saffrahn From Arizona He's The Overdrive Guy For The Club He's Got Alot Of Parts Maybe He Can Fix You Up

i talked to al last night. seems the bushings i need were orig.babbit. that means i must make my own as i figured. he said in doing that, to pay close attention to the way the oil grooves are "threaded" into the cluster. if they are going the wrong way, the gearing and bushings will starve for lubricant. excellent tip. he also said the seal is non existant. one would suspect. i will use the national or victor numbers and see what comes up. i am a bearing wholsale house so seals come as part of the deal with bearings. anyone else need any, get in touch with me.

i will be machining new ones this weekend. fun project for a cold saturday afternoon. . .

thanks for all the advice.

[Deleted User] · December 2006

There may be another option rather than the bushings.

It would not be impossible to counterbore the cluster and use needle bearings as in the T-86. If you are a bearing house, I'd definately look into needle specifications. This change would necessitate the use of a bearing spacer inside the cluster gear as with the T-86. This modification might very well save a piece having good gears, but a less than tolerable bushing bore.

The other outlook would be, if you install the bushings right the first time - the transmission will likely be fixed forever. No way we'll rack up as many miles on these transmissions as the era they were manufactured.

Excellent advice on the bushing "thread", that is something I had not considered.

Excellent bunch of information being generated by these discussions.

Mark

[Deleted User] · December 2006

the cluster is prettty hard if i remember right. the brass (@ $35 / foot) will last longer than me or whoever gets this car after me so i am going to try to machine the brass. one of hte problems i discovered are that the oil holes in the cluster are quite large allowing crud from the transmission oil to enter the bushing area but no where for the crud to exit. it can just stay there forever and chew the crap out of the shaft and the bushings. i just can't think of anyway to make it better where it will actually make a difference in the long run. it is near 60 years old.

i guess i have too many other details to try to overcome to spend too much time on it.

i did get the seal today for the output shaft. not the same as the one we took out but it certainly will work for me. now for the bushings. . . . then the pot metal project. . . . it'll be a long winter.

Unknown · December 2006

Is is definately or definitely?

transmission parts help

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