Transmission flush

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I've got a '48 Super Six, 3spd. It doesn't want to go into 2nd, but only when the car is in motion. All gears work if the car is stationary, so I think it's the syncro. It doesn't grind, it simply won't let me go into 2nd.



I drained the trans, and got about 3/4s of the oil that should be in there (3/4 of a liter). Here's the thing, I think someone put 120W in instead of 90. It looks thicker than it should be, and I think that may be gumming up the syncro.



How can I flush the trans? Or should I just refil with 90 and hope the syncro cleans itself out?



Thanks again;

-Chris

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Years ago, especially during winter in a cold locale, people used to put kerosene in the trans to thin the fluid. If you want to flush it out, maybe you could try that. Don't know if this will solve your problem though.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Question - does it go into top gear when driving? It could just be a simple adjustment of the cable shift link needed.

    Geoff
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:
    Question - does it go into top gear when driving? It could just be a simple adjustment of the cable shift link needed.

    Geoff



    It goes into top gear nicely. But ti goes into all gears when not moving.



    What adjustment do you suggest? I know of the one where I can change the apparent length of the cable. When I slide that adjust, I seem to trade 2nd gear for reverse, but again, only in the driveway.



    The 1 adjust I know about is a nut, which when loosened, allows a metal piece to slide along the shift shaft about an inch. I have a service manual, but I don't think it covers "you can't get into 2nd" as one of the FAQ pieces.



    Please tell me your idea.



    Thanks;

    -Chris
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Okay, it is probably not the cable adjustment then, though it is a possibility that it is moving just enough so that the selector is not moving quite far enough to allow the shift rail to move. I'm sorry, I don't have a manual that covers the single lever gearshift adjustments, but I know on my Hornet the shift into second was difficult until I adjusted the amount of movement the cabel gave to the shift rail selector lever, so that it was moved fully over into the slot. Good luck,

    Geoff.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    did you try double clutching while driving to see if it goes in then?
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    The procedure to adjust the control wire is given on page 8-15 of the Hudson Shop Service Manual 1948-1954. It also states that thick lubricant can cause hard shifting.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    It Works!

    So, I flushed the trans with kerosene, put in some 90w, and ta da! 2nd works again, and it shifts smoothly.



    Thanks;

    -Chris
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    See, I told you. :D Works great in the differential and steering gear box too.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    The following is paraphrased from the manual.



    Difficult shifting, especially into 2nd gear is often caused by the improper adjustment of the cross-shift control wire or by looseness of the cable anchor clip which secures it to the bell housing. this results in insufficient movement being imparted to the transmission inner shift shaft lever to allow it to fully engage the shift forks. In cases of hard shifting the 'Gear Shift' lever and cross shift control cable should be adjusted if necessary as follows:



    A. Check to see that the lever at the end of the cable at the transmission is tight on it's shaft and that the bracket is secure.



    B. Place "Gear Shift" Lever, in the extreme upper position.



    B. Loosen control wire casing anchor bracket bolt at end of steering column. Pull anchor bracket up until all slack is out of casing and the shift shaft lever is fully forward at transmission. Tighten anchor bolt. The anchor ahould have clearance at top and bottom.



    C. Remove cotter pin and washer on the clevis end of the shift rod. Manually make sure transmission is in neutral, loosen lock nut and adjust rod so that it lines up with the hole. Tighten lock nut and replace washer and pin.



    Also, if shifting is difficult, make sure gear oil is 90W. In cold weather, drain about 2 oz of gear oil and replace with kerosene.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    usgrant7 wrote:
    It Works!

    So, I flushed the trans with kerosene, put in some 90w, and ta da! 2nd works again, and it shifts smoothly.



    How long did you leave the kero in the gear box? Did you have the engine running and drove the car a little or have the rear jacked up? Or did you just work the gear shifter?



    I ask because this is one jub coming up on my list and I want to be prepared.



    Thanks in advance.
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