complete strip and repaint--How much??

JP
JP Expert Adviser
edited November -1 in HUDSON
How much might I expect to pay for a complete paint strip and repaint in a new color on a Hornet four door sedan? Of course, I will look for bids--just looking for experienced advice.



Thanks,



JP

Comments

  • JP
    JP Expert Adviser
    That is exterior paint job, not interior metal partss.



    JP
  • It's like buying a car, do you want a Geo or a Rolls? Aside from not knowing the level of quality you're looking for, who knows what evils may surface when the car is stripped. Yet another variable is how do you want the car stripped? By hand using chemicals, with abrasives or by dipping? Try going to some local franchise place for an estimate. That will give you the bargain basement price point. Then, skip your usual body shop (they seem to hate working on old cars) and talk to a restoration shop. But to guess at a dollar amount for a nice paint job (assuming typical prep and little in the way of repairs) I'd budget at least $6,000.00. Hope that helps.
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    JP wrote:
    That is exterior paint job, not interior metal partss.

    JP


    True - but if you are changin colors you will want to shoot inside the door jambs, hood, trunk - 4 drs always cost more to paint...2 extra doors to mask and paint!

    10-15k min. would be my guess w/2500-3500+ in materials alone...really...and a whole lot-o-labor.

    Even a lot of resto-shops might tell you By the hour + materials only...this could run anywhere from 400-1200 hours @ Shoprates

    Examples @ 50.00 per thats 20-60k! Remember this would be at a Restoration shop, these are not unheard of prices or hours...depends on the quality and materials as well...for instance...if you want lead work done instead of bondo - it will cost more.

    You really need to set some clear goals for the quality of the paint job, and what you are or are not willing to tackle yourself. A show paint job vs. a driver is a huge difference in price ranges/

    Areas you can save yourself some $$ is if you take all the exterior trim, bumpers and windows out yourself and NOT do a color change thereby not requiring the jambs to be painted (they could be re-done at another time)
  • 7XPacemaker
    7XPacemaker Senior Contributor
    Remember this- the bargain basement price is usually the quality that you get. Bargain basement. Prices vary so much (as Rambo said), I wouldn't even dare take a shot at the price. I am currently doing a 1951 Hornet sedan and I have painted the main color. I have yet to do the two tone. I unbolted all exterior panels and had them media blasted. There was SO much bondo in the quarters, I received two pieces of cheesescloth back. Point being this- you never know what is under the paint. My car had seven factory dents in the roof and lead in the trunk! A lot of body shops don't even want to touch old cars because they don't pay what new cars and their flat rate premiums.I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor and let us know what you decide.
  • bob ward
    bob ward Senior Contributor
    Assuming we are talking about a fairly straight car, no nasty surprises waiting to be discovered. The paint shop removes and replaces the stainless and bumper bars but does not repair or rechrome them. Figure 2 guys for 2 weeks plus materials comes to around 15k
  • i was told by a GOOD body shop that just the strip and painting done on my 46 was worth over $10 grand. that did not account for any of the re-repairing of any of the work done during the first 50 years of the cars life. i asked the fellow how much to just spray and color sand and buff out the car after i had done all the body work, priming and blocksanding and masking. $3000 including materials was the answer. i think i will go back into the restoration business. its not that hard to do, just takes lots of time.
  • I know a guy here in OK that has a '58 Cadillac ElDorado ragtop. He has spent over $50K on JUST the chrome and stainless restoration, over $50K on the stripping, paint, prep, and finish work on that. Plus, he is presently doing the drivetrain himself. The leather alone for the upholstery is going to be over $12K. AND, he started with a 34K mile, #2 condition survivor!



    Like they said, how far are you willing to go, what are you starting with, and how much are you willing to spend.
  • What you need to do is interface with people in your area who have had the work done. Then you can start shopping for a shop. You will find someone. In the last 3 years I have had 2 1933 Terraplanes and a 1919 Essex done by a shop in Hanover Pa. Not one cost over $4000 complete. This is by a small restoration shop that knows how to work metal instead of sculpting the body out of plastic. He charges $35.00 hourly. We also had both Terraplanes interior done by a fellow in Gettysburg Pa, Both cost under $2400.00 and the convrt. got a new complete top and leather seats. All three cars had decent bodys and were disasembled and were done in base coat/clearcoat.
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    davidh wrote:
    i was told by a GOOD body shop that just the strip and painting done on my 46 was worth over $10 grand. that did not account for any of the re-repairing of any of the work done during the first 50 years of the cars life. i asked the fellow how much to just spray and color sand and buff out the car after i had done all the body work, priming and blocksanding and masking. $3000 including materials was the answer. i think i will go back into the restoration business. its not that hard to do, just takes lots of time.


    Don't get back into the restoration business too fast...nearly 1/2 that amount or more is materials costs alone. The epoxy, high build primers and urethane paints are 1000x more expensive than the lacquer and enamel that were used 20 years ago when you could get a decent paint job for around 1500 - but materials costs then were only 200.00!
  • It cost approx. $800.00 for materials for my car. Make sure you do'nt get someone who buries the car in primer and paint and sands 1/2 of it to make it smooth. It does not take a lot of primer or paint to do the work correctly, anyone who does is blowing smoke at you, because they think you don't now. Be willing to pay for metal finishing, you will be happer in the end
  • Richard E.
    Richard E. Senior Contributor
    I live in Southern CA, a fairly expensive place. Two years ago I completely stripped and painted a 1936 Terraplane 4 door sedan, I have almost $8,000 in the paint job, from a very good car restoration painter in my area. I rented a soda blaster and stripped it in my driveway - $600. That turned up some rust, which soda will not remove, so we bead blasted the rust (the paint shop trucked the cab over to the bead blasting place) another $200. The paint job was originally estimated at $6,000 and came in at $6,700. I have the car reassembled and when I completely finish the painter is going to remove any nicks and scrathes caused by reassembly. I do expect to pay for that and to have the pinstripping done. A pre-war car is more expensive to paint than a stepdown because they come apart in so many pieces.



    By the way, another member of our club was told that if you do all of prep work and supply the paint, outfits like Maaco will do a respectable paint job. You have to pay for their top job - about $1,500.



    That's my two cents
  • So, the concensus is that you will spend between $4,000.00 to $60,000. Hope that helps. :rolleyes: Seriously, base your paint budget by looking at the potential value of the car and your intentions. No sense spending more on a paint job than the car is, or ever will be, worth.
  • You never said what you wanted the car to be when finished. Daily Driver? Cruiser? Trailer Queen. Also what kind of time-frame are you looking for the work to take place? For a daily driver, the idea of "Prep-it-yourself", then take it to an economy paint shop would be the best. A local shop around here has their economy paint job, regularly $500 for $250. You can't hardly buy Urethane paint, thinner, and hardner for that.
  • Richard E.
    Richard E. Senior Contributor
    I forgot to mention that my painting estimate included body work, which was minimal. They had to cut out and weld in new pieces in the bottoms of all 4 doors and also on the cab where the trunk latched, that whole strip. They also straightened various dents from the fenders. This will not be a 100 point restoration, but it will be a very nice resto and yes it will be driven places.
  • JP
    JP Expert Adviser
    Thanks to everyone for their fine responses. The mix of interests and levels of restoration/"ratrodding" on this site are truly impressive. You folks are right--"restoring" (renovating) a car is always a conflict between the amount of money that you feel you can spend, and what it would cost to make it the dream car that you would wish to own (for the model you have). The Hudson "crew" on this forum are really great, good people who are willing to share a font of knowledge that is a wonderful help to those who need some info to improve their cars or just to get them/keep them on the road.



    I wasn't thinking about producing a concours vehicle--the car wil be a driver, at least as long as I own it, I can't afford multiple cars or a "trailer queen," to to spend an exorbitant amount on this vehicle. Yet, I appreciate the folks who maintain them for the good of preserving the history of an automotive marque that tried to lead the way for the Big (and now also getting smaller) Three.



    What I was really looking for was a cost range for stripping and repainting in a new color versus some sanding and repainting in the same color scheme. I would prefer a di9fferent color, but can live with the one I have--it is a trade-off (money versus desires) as you know. I understand that a low cost paint job will reflect what I get. What I would like is a decent, durable paint job, and I understand that changing the color is a much more formidable (costly) task. But this would also be the time to tackle any bodywork that might have to be done as well as the paint.



    Thanks for your posts and I welcome any additional input from you fine folks.



    JP
  • Recently, I saw a beautiful Terraplane convertible that had just been painted. It did need prep and some body work, but it turned out beautiful. All for about $6,000.00.
  • Jp I had the samr considerations when I got my wasp repainted. My body man asked me if I wanteda show car or a driver as the price would vary a lot . I told him that I wanted a driver and thats what I got. Its not perfect but it is very nice and I have even won awards at car shows any ways...lol. As far as color goes the car was a solid creme color and looked like a big lump. I chose to go with 2 tone which improved the look of the car immenselly [see my avatar]. I didn't need to do door pillars etc, but ended up with a much nicer looking car than the original.
  • I paid $2800 to paint my 49 Hudson. It was a two tone paint job. The painter also painted under the hood, under the trunk, inside the door jams, painted the dash and also each of the door trim pieces. The $2800 included material. The paint came out excellent. I gave him the car with all the trim, headlights, tail lights, and bumpers removed. The job came out excellent! Guess I got a great deal. The painter did the work in his own shop on his own property, so he was not part of a major operation ( one man show ).



    BST RGDS

    GARY ( happychris )
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    happychris wrote:
    I paid $2800 to paint my 49 Hudson. It was a two tone paint job. The painter also painted under the hood, under the trunk, inside the door jams, painted the dash and also each of the door trim pieces. The $2800 included material. The paint came out excellent. I gave him the car with all the trim, headlights, tail lights, and bumpers removed. The job came out excellent! Guess I got a great deal. The painter did the work in his own shop on his own property, so he was not part of a major operation ( one man show ).

    BST RGDS
    GARY ( happychris )

    Gary did his the right way to save money...trim was removed and took it to a guy who happens to work out of his house...low overhead, no taxes, lower price!

    It might be harder to get any kind of warranty work done - unless the guy is like me and stands by his work - but for the cost diff and Gary is happy with the job...great deal!
  • 7XPacemaker
    7XPacemaker Senior Contributor
    By the way- I don't believe that when a dealer two toned a car that he did the jams. It was just the outside only. i have seen several cars like this.
  • All the good painters I used to know are all dead.
  • tombia has a point here, and those prices are not unobtainable. At least here in the Southeast, a $4000 strip and repaint should be a damn fine paint job with a good body. A car that needed a fair amount of panelbeating and filler more like $5000, and some steel welded in and worked $6000 or so. Any more than that in my opinion is just too much money. I have restored many cars for less.
  • 35 Terraplane
    35 Terraplane Senior Contributor
    I had an "old timer" tell me that if I were going to repaint my 35 Terrplane not to have to old paint removed but to have itn sand and painted over. The paints used in the old days had a high lead contain which made them very durable.

    Tom
  • Bill Albright restores Hudsons full time. He would be the one who knows what a good paint job costs.
  • coverton
    coverton Expert Adviser
    JP, Please be sure of the rust and corrosion issue that may lie underneath the present paint.If it comming from a seam you must see the source,ie: removal of the fenders and qtrs. I am redoing a sorry resto job now as the seams popped through because either the restorer did not go to the source and kill it,cover with epoxy and then surface,seal and paint or skipped a step.

    If I had known then what I do now I would be a few bucks better off.Also, messy as it is, the back sides of the fenders and qtrs need to be rust converted and sealed. Most rust comes from beneath and behind. that is where I got clipped the first time.

    I would ck the AACA local club for an honest person and just ask him.

    May be a local Community College that teaches this you can lean on too

    good lucj Carroll O, NC
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