Leaf Spring Bushing Replace

hudsonguy wrote:

I noticed several years ago that when I've got a car load of people in my stepdown, my front leaf spring bushings reveal themselves as being worn out whenever I turn corners into parking lots, etc. So I thought I'd better get this done now before the upcoming car show season. I've already got all of the replacement parts I need (bushings from Kgap, and new flange bolts). I'll get some new nuts from McMaster Carr once I get it apart.



The Hudson manual basically covers removing the entire axle, which I don't need or want to do, so I was planning on doing this one side at a time using a floor jack and jackstands to try to relieve the tension on whichever spring I'm working on. I'm sure some judicious use of small boards might also be in order along the way.



Am I going about this the right way? I appreciate the help from those who have already done this.



Thanks,

Doug

Hudsonguy,just in for lunch.I have found you can pull one side apart at a time.You will find it easier to remove the spring.This requires taking the u-bolts off from the axle.You should replace the rubber pads that mount the springs to the axle also.K-Gap also sells these,so don't start the job until you have them.Of coarse,read the shop manual,something the manual doesn't explain is,some of the front leaf spring bolt/pins are tack welded to keep them from coming out and moving while tightening them.Clean this area off real good and verify they are not welded.If you try to drive the pin out with it tack welded,it will bend the bracket and make it more difficult to re-install the new parts.If you are doing this job,you should also be planning to replace the rear stabilizer bar bushings.There was a thread just mentioned about this procedure.I have also found that when replacing the front leaf spring bushings,it is easier to use 2 real thin putty knives or equivilent,to tuck into either side of the bushings when you are putting the spring back into the bracket.I also apply the Sil-Glyde paste to these bushings.Restoring the rear suspension is just as important as the front suspension.There is nothing that rides like a Hudson Step-down when the suspension is as new!!!

Edwardjohnsr wrote:

Clutchguy:

I'm the guy who is working on the stabilizer bushings. It was interesting that you mentioned the possiblity that the front leaf spring bolts could be tack welded in place. Have you ever seen the stabilizer bar bolts tack welded in place? I am having a heck of a time trying to get them out. I have been able to slide the bar off the bolt on the axle end (because it is open ended). However, the frame end is closed ended and I just can't get the bolt to move. I've tried a 3 pound sledge hitting the end where I took the nut off(with appropriate protection of the threads) and have tried turning the head of the bolt with no success.



Do you have any insight into the frame end bolt?



Ed

Ed,you need to make sure there is no fuel leaks,and then get the torch out and heat the nut and bolt up.Once you have heated this up,it will make it bend easy,so be careful when pounding on it.I usually have a spray water bottle to assist me with the stink this procedure makes!!!!!! Don't heat up the bar itself,this will make no difference.I was describing that there is a sleeve inside the rubber and that sleeve is froze up on the bolt.As you mentioned,could it be welded--anything is possible after 50 or more years!!! I know this area is hard to work in,but be patient.