Engine Paint

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Where can I get the gold color for my 52 308?

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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    quick stuff, high temp spray at pep-boys, or autozone.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    hudsonkid wrote:
    quick stuff, high temp spray at pep-boys, or autozone.



    Look for: Dupli-Color, DE 1604 Universal Gold. It's an engine enamel that is claimed to contain ceramic and is heat tested to 500 degrees.
  • Walt-LA
    Walt-LA Senior Contributor
    Duplicolor gold holds up pretty well on the block, but will not last on the exhaust manifold. POR, on the other hand makes a high temp paint which does hold up. I've had it on mine for two years and about 2,000 miles. Unfortunately, it is SILVER. Can't find a gold. Anyone know of a high temp paint in gold? Walt-LA
  • harry54
    harry54 Senior Contributor
    Does anyone know of the correct color for the 49 8 ? I know it's silver but does anyone have a recomendation of a Manufaturer ?
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    Walt-LA wrote:
    Duplicolor gold holds up pretty well on the block, but will not last on the exhaust manifold. POR, on the other hand makes a high temp paint which does hold up. I've had it on mine for two years and about 2,000 miles. Unfortunately, it is SILVER. Can't find a gold. Anyone know of a high temp paint in gold? Walt-LA



    I use Caddilac Gold. Found at most auto parts stores.
  • Nevada Hudson
    Nevada Hudson Senior Contributor
    harry54 wrote:
    Does anyone know of the correct color for the 49 8 ? I know it's silver but does anyone have a recomendation of a Manufaturer ?



    The silver engine spray paint at Napa is a close match. I have that on my '50 Commodore , and it looks real good.
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor
    Walt-LA wrote:
    Duplicolor gold holds up pretty well on the block, but will not last on the exhaust manifold. POR, on the other hand makes a high temp paint which does hold up. I've had it on mine for two years and about 2,000 miles. Unfortunately, it is SILVER. Can't find a gold. Anyone know of a high temp paint in gold? Walt-LA



    Just to expand on this reply. POR does make a gray and black, as well as the silver. I've used the gray, and found that it holds up extremely well if, like all paintwork, the workpiece is prepared correctly. In the case of exhaust manifolds, I've got one that was first sandblasted, then etched, painted with POR-15, then manifold gray, and still looks like new after over 8,000 miles. I've also got one that I failed to sandblast first, even though I did all the rest of the steps above, and it starting losing it's paint almost right away.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    hudsonguy wrote:
    Just to expand on this reply. POR does make a gray and black, as well as the silver. I've used the gray, and found that it holds up extremely well if, like all paintwork, the workpiece is prepared correctly. In the case of exhaust manifolds, I've got one that was first sandblasted, then etched, painted with POR-15, then manifold gray, and still looks like new after over 8,000 miles. I've also got one that I failed to sandblast first, even though I did all the rest of the steps above, and it starting losing it's paint almost right away.



    There is one very important step that some fail to do once the manifold has been blasted (I prefer bead to sand) - remove the moisture from the pores of the cast iron BEFORE coating, and that is as follows:



    * do ONE manifold at a time, & on a day when the humidity is VERY LOW and no clouds in site, as follows:



    1. hang the manifold with a coat hanger, e.g., perhaps under a tree or step ladder (wherever you think the least moisture is in the air and it's safe).



    2. take a propane torch or similar heat source and begin heating the manifold from the bottom and immediately you will detect a "moisture line or circle" around the manifold (you must take your time and heat all around uniformly, but try not to waste time - keep it moving up, uniformly)



    3. continue with the heating until the moisture circle reaches the top, then go to the bottom and see if you can redevelop another moisture circle; if not, perfect; move on IMMEDIATEly to paint/coat. If a new circle forms it may be too humid to do it effectively at that time; better wait and try again later.



    The object is 1) to remove all of the moisture IMMEDIATELY before coating the surface, and 2) coat it fast (bottom up). Moisture not-removed is trapped in the pores and once coated it has no escape route. Therefore, once the heat hits the manifold from the inside the internal pressure inside the pores where the moisture is increases thus forcing the moisture out, but to get out it will break open or split the paint/coating and then the rust begins.



    Do it the correct way and you will be happy you did.
  • SamJ
    SamJ Senior Contributor
    I've had good luck with POR silver too. I like it because you can brush it on which is easier when the engine is still in the car.:cool:
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    harry54 wrote:
    Does anyone know of the correct color for the 49 8 ? I know it's silver but does anyone have a recomendation of a Manufaturer ?



    Here is a good thread on engine paint.



    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5148&highlight=Engine+Paint
  • RG53Hornet
    RG53Hornet Senior Contributor
    What are you guys using for the red-orange color on the Twin H air cleaners?
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