Oil Pan Removal

[Deleted User] · May 2007

OK. I have the steering arms out of the way. I have removed the splash panel from the under the front of the engine.

I started at the front of the engine removing the fasteners holding the oil pan to the block (I am cleaning out sludge now that I have other things working).

I noticed that of the five fasteners on the front of the engine, I have four DIFFERENT lengths! I have kept them in order so I can put them back in the same spot.

Is this "normal"?? I had hoped to batch clean them in the solvent tank and tumbler.

hudsonguy · May 2007

Pace,

Those different length fasteners must be just what bolts ended up there from past repairs. I recently replaced all of the oil pan (crankcase) bolts on my 262, and as I recall they were basically all the same length (I think they were 3/4" long?), except for the two adjacent to the oil pump pipe on the passenger's side of the engine. I think these two were more like 1.25" or more. Hope this helps.

[Deleted User] · May 2007

Yes, that helps. So far these five at about 3/4 of an inch long. Two are closer to 8/10th and one right at 6/10th.

By the way, what did you torque them down to when you reinstalled?

hudsonguy · May 2007

I've got a sheet I copied from a Hudson shop manual that lists all of the torque spec's that I use religiously whenever I make repairs. However, the spec. for this particular setting I do not agree with. (Seems to me it's something like 10-12 ft. lbs.) When I tried to duplicate this during assembly of my engine, it was obviously too high of a torque for these bolts, because it started to really displace the gasket severely when I tried the first couple. So, I basically ignored the torque spec. for these bolts, and just went with what 'felt right'. There may be someone that can tell you more precisely what this spec. should really be.

[Deleted User] · May 2007

I understand the "feels right." I will be putting on a new cork gasket I got from Mr. K. and his nephew. I'll re-check my manual for the torque specs. I know it is not in the section that describes the removal and re-install steps.

I'll have it off by noon tomorrow, Right now I have to take the splash panel and the other spalsh guard (speed-o cable) to the shop for blasting and powder coating. I am going to have the sawy bar done as well since I took it off to remove the splash panel.

Thanks.

[Deleted User] · May 2007

I am missing something that is not in the manual. I have all the bolts out and the pan will not clear the flywheel.

Do I need to jack the engine a few inches?

[Deleted User] · May 2007

Rotate the engine you are probably caught up on the crank..

[Deleted User] · May 2007

51hornetA wrote:

Rotate the engine you are probably caught up on the crank..

I'll give it a go. But as am trying to move it, I hit the flywheel first. It is like I only need the flywheel to be 2 inches smaller and the pan would clear.

If I do jack the engine a bit, would I use a 2x12 or 2x10 with a v cut in to cradle the bottom pulley or leave it flat and push on the block?

BTW, when I face the engine, and look at it from the top, which way should I pull the long handled socket wrench to crank the motor? If i remember correctly, I should pull towards the driver's side (clockwise as one faces the motor from the fan and pulleys).

[Deleted User] · May 2007

Yup, clockwise. You should be able to get the pan off without jacking the engine. If you have to remove the motor mount bolts and yes notched 2x10 will do the trick just jack slowly and be careful. Sometimes you can jack for a bit and nothing then the engine breaks free of mounts.

[Deleted User] · May 2007

Pacemaker500 wrote:

I'll give it a go. But as am trying to move it, I hit the flywheel first. It is like I only need the flywheel to be 2 inches smaller and the pan would clear.

If I do jack the engine a bit, would I use a 2x12 or 2x10 with a v cut in to cradle the bottom pulley or leave it flat and push on the block?

BTW, when I face the engine, and look at it from the top, which way should I pull the long handled socket wrench to crank the motor? If i remember correctly, I should pull towards the driver's side (clockwise as one faces the motor from the fan and pulleys).

Actually the manual recommends that the front suspension be allowed to hang free so that there is clearance for the unbolted pan to be removed. To facilitate this feat ... the six bolts - 3 per side are replaced with 6-6.5 "long bolts. The process involves using a jack under each lower an arm. Once the bolts have been replaced with the longer items slowly lower each side and you will have 5-6 inches of clearance. BTW the lower frame section has locating pins to assure that you can use a jack to push the frame back together.

Good Luck

[Deleted User] · May 2007

Thats the procedure for the 8 Cylinder engine. The manual states for the 6 cylinder engine. Raise the car placing the jack stands under the #2 crossmember then remove the 3 bolts holding the center steering arm and allow it to drop. Remove the bolts attaching flywheel dust cover and remove cover. Remove oil pan plug and drain oil. Remove bolts and lockwashers attaching oil pan to cylinder block, remove oil pan. Thats it. I Did it last year have to make sure you rotate the crank so the pan does not hang. And if need be you can jack the engine a little and the pan will drop out.

I do have to say it was not an enjoyable job lying on your back under the car.

[Deleted User] · May 2007

51hornetA wrote:

I do have to say it was not an enjoyable job lying on your back under the car.

That is exactly where I will be at 0900 Eastern today. I, too, must admit that I did not feel at home under the car. Something about all four jack stands failing. But the pan will come out today.

I appreciate the tip about the crank. Things like that should be printed in the "So You Want To Repair Your Hudson" manual and sold via the HET bookstore.

Oil Pan Removal

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