Frame Patch Replacement

rambos_ride
Senior Contributor
Ouch! I hate welding upside down :mad: - A couple of more days of this and I'll be heading to the burn ward for treatment! I envy all of you who have big garages and a rotisserie/spit
I know Ken A. makes replacement floor boards for step-downs (just got to get some more money first)
And someone else makes replacement rocker panels for step-downs (I need to look them up too, and $$...)
Does anyone make replacement frame panels?
I would think making a set for the rear corner sections (inner and outer) pre-fabbed with the correct holes in place would be a nice little operation for some extra $$ and save us all countless hours of cutting and welding patches in - when it would make for a much better and endlessly easier job to replace the whole section (I don't have the correct equipment or I would do it myself
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Falling-Welding-Slag-Hater :mad:
I know Ken A. makes replacement floor boards for step-downs (just got to get some more money first)
And someone else makes replacement rocker panels for step-downs (I need to look them up too, and $$...)
Does anyone make replacement frame panels?
I would think making a set for the rear corner sections (inner and outer) pre-fabbed with the correct holes in place would be a nice little operation for some extra $$ and save us all countless hours of cutting and welding patches in - when it would make for a much better and endlessly easier job to replace the whole section (I don't have the correct equipment or I would do it myself

Falling-Welding-Slag-Hater :mad:
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I don't envy you...I've got a lot of those little round scars from welding slag. Those that say MIG welding doesn't create slag and "goobers" has never welded!! Of course, I'll probably be cussing about the same thing this winter when I tear down the Hornet. (Hope not too much, it's a southern California car.)
Rambo, all you need is a mandrel square tubing bender and I'll bet you could make those rails in about an hour a side!2X4 tubing should work great. No holes means no internal rust!
Of course, there'd be just a little extra weight involved.
You're doing a great job with the car and doing it right. It's always 10 times more difficult to do it right but it's always worth it.0 -
We need replacement frame pieces as bad or worse than floorboards. I keep walking by the sedan I bought to scavenge the floor and frame out of and can't help but shake my head in a degree of sadness.
One Hudson loses its life to save another, at some point they'll all be frameless, floorless hulks with a few coupes and convertibles left.
Mark0 -
`Hudsonator wrote:We need replacement frame pieces as bad or worse than floorboards. I keep walking by the sedan I bought to scavenge the floor and frame out of and can't help but shake my head in a degree of sadness.
One Hudson loses its life to save another, at some point they'll all be frameless, floorless hulks with a few coupes and convertibles left.
Mark
OF course the same can be said of me - at some point I'll be a "frameless, floorless - hulk" and children will have a hard time pronouncing 'gasoline' because at $20.00 a gallon no-one will use it anymore!
Funny you mentioned one Hudson giving it's life for another because I was thinking it might have been easier to cut the whole backend out and replace with one from a donor car!
But now that I'm about 1/2 way done with the frame patches and have already scraped all the undercoating from this one - I'll have to trudge on...0 -
Its a pretty good point, I wonder why no one has stepped up to make a replacement frame rail kit. And I don't want to hear its because we are orphans and not enough volume. From my travels it looks like hudson owners are more active then the other brands. If some industrious fabrication shop can set up a jig cheaply and turn some out, I'm thinking they wouldn't lose money. I'm gonna call Paul Sr. at Orange County Choppers and tell him to make some for us. He is well off now and has a large ironworks. He can do it as a favor to us.0
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There are a couple of ways to make the Hudson frame rails.
The first would be pretty heavy but could be done. One would have to use a mandrel bender and bend 2X4 inch tubing to the form of the original rails. A mandrel bender would have to be used so that the interior wall would not collapse as the tubing is bent. The actual procedure is not difficult but the equipment is extremely expensive! :eek:
The second method would be to cut strips of appropriate thicknes sheet metal and cut out the holes as Hudson did originally. Then it would have to be bent in a jig and welded up. However, that's really a lot of welding but it would be the most economic way to make new rails. It would take two side pieces of probably 12 guage metal that are approximately 4" wide as well as a top and bottom piece of 12 guage cut to the proper bends and welded while in the jig.
If anybody's interested in making a jig, I'm sure that I could diagram it out or rambos ride could as well. I'm not in a position to do the reproduction myself at this moment...It's not that much more difficult than making new floor pans!!
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Don't ya think 12 guage is a bit overkill?
I'm pretty sure I mic'ed the good parts of tin and it looks like standard 16 guage is all the rear outer rails are made from.
Of course the front sub-frame and x-members and rear main rails on the underside body are much thicker material than the Monibilt shell in the rear as shown in the picture.
I agree though the acutal jig to make the pieces is dead-nutz simple it would be getting the inner "C" shaped piece stamped or molded to the correct radius and the large outer holes cut cleanly to be the biggest challenge...0 -
Ok, ok ya caught me!
I tend to over build everything though. It's been a long time since I've been around the rear perimeter frame. Last time was when I tubbed the 53 Wasp. If it were the two longitudenal rails, 12 guage is probably the most appropriate. BTW Mark Williams Enterprises has the measurements for those. They're the ones who made them for me on the Wasp. 16 guage is certainly much easier to work with as well!
Yeah, I volunteered you Rambo but I like your fabrication skills but what I've seen on your web site. I'll post some when I get to the Hornet this winter. I still don't have my compressor and lathe here in Utahso any metal working is reduced to hand work. One of these days, we'll have to meet up and swap stories in person!
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Sorry - I wasn't trying to call you out
I know a lot of people check this forum out for info and didn't want to mislead anyone about proper sheet metal thickness for repairs (that's why I dropped the pic in to show what I am working on)
The lower left corner of the "circle" in the pic is a replacement piece I made out of what I believe to be 16 guage. KISS folks - I used a pint metal paint can lid (the exact diameter hole size) to make the radius outline for the cut - the silver paint is rust-inhibitive weld-thru primer, you'll see it in all my sheet metal repairs where I weld. Good Stuff - Everyone Go Get Some!
When I get mine on the road I plan to drive the wheels off it! I'm trying to get it done well before this years Las Vegas SEMA show in November but... there's a lot left to do and I'm starting to run short of time and money :mad: I know by next year I will be hitting a lot more of the meets and dropping some stories and suds with you all (Hudson gods willing!)0 -
Just looking through the parts book for '48-'54 stepdowns, it appears that the replacement pieces for the frame are numerous. The only complicated pieces on the frame are the ones that go from the last crossmember around the rear of the car.
Even at that, its the inner skin at the wheelwell that would need to be either die pressed or hand formed on a hammer. The rest could be rolled and radiused fairly easily if the right equipment was at hand (which I don't have!).
If these pieces were available, I suspect more Hudson's could be saved.
I'm running low on time and money too - the '49 coupe and buying a cache of parts have drained the Hudson fund. The '49 has NO rust issues (the Wasp taught me well!). I'm shifting gears to the '49 and making the Wasp a longer term project. Who knows, by the time I get down n' dirty with the Wasp - somebody may be making frame pieces and I can save the sedan also.
Mark0 -
Rambos:
You are probably too far along with your welding and too far away for shipping, but I have an extra good solid rear clip. The frame rails run about 18 to 24 inches in front of the round hole, and the back extends up to that piece which has the trunk latch attached. Let me know if you are interested or any one else is.0 -
I'd like pictures of those pieces, if you would?
HEThudfarm@nctc.com
e-mail me please, just drop the HET part off.
Mark0 -
man oh man... I guess I need to count my lucky stars on having a rust free hudson. My biggest problem right now is getting the carbs balanced out on mine.
BTW, back in the late 80's and early 90's my dad restored (or did a significant portion of it up to this point) a 52 Wasp coupe, he had to reform the rear perimeter, which was for the most part completely gone. He did it using those radius benders and a sheetmetal brake, and a lot of welding, but for the most part it came out real nice. The car looks good, but underneath, it still could use some more work.
If someone were to make the frame sections, would they be univeral fit? I imagine that it would very well be the case. I don't think, other than the obvious nuances, that there would be much difference for any stepdown rear frame sections, would there?0 -
SRCraftsman2 wrote:Rambos:
You are probably too far along with your welding and too far away for shipping, but I have an extra good solid rear clip. The frame rails run about 18 to 24 inches in front of the round hole, and the back extends up to that piece which has the trunk latch attached. Let me know if you are interested or any one else is.
Yeah - too far along and too far away for me now.
If my next Hudson is rusty like this one in the rear - I'll get a clip - or maybe I'll be making replacement sections:)
I'm sure someone will be interested in the parts.0 -
SRCraftsman2 wrote:Rambos:
You are probably too far along with your welding and too far away for shipping, but I have an extra good solid rear clip. The frame rails run about 18 to 24 inches in front of the round hole, and the back extends up to that piece which has the trunk latch attached. Let me know if you are interested or any one else is.
I'm sure shipping would kill me from your town of PA but...but, now that I have 8+ hours into one frame corner and reviewing the rear roll pan area closer... I wanted to throw a shout out to anyone in the Greater Pacific Northwest area to see if they have a donor car for a rear clip.
You can see in the pictures I've had to remove the rear inner braces that go between the tailight mounting area to the rear roll pan - they were also rusted and they had to come out to attempt fixing the outer sheet metal correctly...
I'd like to replace the whole back section with the outer sheet metal and inner braces intact from where the "white lines" are in the composite pic - if the trunk pan itself was good I could use that too...
But...- I don't want a piece from a good restorable car - it would preferably be one that got hit in the front or side, maybe an electrical fire, something along those lines.
- It would need to be good and solid otherwise I might as well keep going with what I have - light surface rust is OK.
- I'm willing to drive and pick it up and/or come out to pull the clip
I know this is a completely wild shot in the dark - but if you don't ask you will never know0 - I don't want a piece from a good restorable car - it would preferably be one that got hit in the front or side, maybe an electrical fire, something along those lines.
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I had a '51 Pacemaker club coupe with a rotted back frame section and someone had given me drawings of the entire lower frame. I'm pretty sure that the rear secion of the frame is identical on all step-downs. There was talk about reproduction frame rails when this was going on. From what I found out someone would have to produce a batch of frame rails to make it cost-effective for other Hudnuts. One guy I saw took a small I-beam and cut notches into it and bent it around the outter perimeter of the frame and welded it in place. As far as my old coupe goes it went to TX and someone decided to restore it anyway with their own welding torch.0
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:cool: Well - I've moved on... but I read a great article in Sept 05 issue of Street Rodder rag "Magnum Opus Deuce" which details Brookeville Roadsters making and stamping of a 3 window 32 Deuce.
I know it's a brand X but basically what they did is take a virgin coupe and dissassemble scan, digitize and render the body in 3-D in a CadCam program. They also did some unique things to make their stampings easier. Like make the whole side of the coupe 1 piece instead of many as the original did. They were able to do this because the production of stamped metal technology is waaaayyy better today.
Ohhh how I hope someone would do this to a Stepdown Hudson someday!
Oh yeah - they put the donor car back together - no sacrifice and no harm - no foul!0 -
You know, I'd really like to see a '32 Essex or Hudson coupe reproduced similiar to the Brand X coupe.
It sure would suit me and some of my dream projects. I'll bet I'm not alone either.
Hud0 -
`Hudsonator wrote:You know, I'd really like to see a '32 Essex or Hudson coupe reproduced similiar to the Brand X coupe.
It sure would suit me and some of my dream projects. I'll bet I'm not alone either.
Hud
Anyone know the difference in production numbers from the 32 Ford Coupe vs 32 Hudson Coupe?
I've always liked the 34 Ford 5 window coupes - did Hudson make a similar coupe (3 or 5 window) model in 34?0 -
Yes, they certainly did. And I suspect one gander at those coupes and you'll be done with the Ford. Gorgeous cars. '35 and '34 Hudson or Terraplane.
I'd settle for a 'glass replica of either the '32,'33,'34, or '35.
Mark0 -
Sorry to bump this old thread, but has anything come of repro frame sections since this was posted 2 years ago?
I just picked up a screaming deal on a '49 coupe that sat in a basement garage for over 40 years - it's really nice, interior is presentable, motor even turns over, but the frame rails are pretty bad on the left side from about the door back and weak but not as bad on the right side. I think it was just a combination of having been just transportation and seeing road salt for 12 years and sitting in a dark damp basement from then on. I also have a '48 sedan that was driven in 1996, but it too has some rot, mainly where it kicks up for the axle and the rear bumper mounts. The floors in both really aren't that bad from what I can see, might be a couple holes in the front pans on the coupe, I couldn't see any on the sedan at all.
Maybe the thing to do is make a template, find someone with a mandrel bender, and have them bend up some 2x4 box tube.0 -
Not that I know of.
Pity, of all the body panels and floorboards one can find - we need frame replacement panels the absolute worst.
Frame issues are what take these cars out of play, and is responsible for the destruction of other restorable Hudsons to fix the more desireable cars like coupes/convertibles.
I look in my parts books and see where these replacement frame panels were available from Hudson "back in the day". I'm envious, I wish I had them now.
Mark0 -
pontiac59 wrote:Sorry to bump this old thread, but has anything come of repro frame sections since this was posted 2 years ago?
I just picked up a screaming deal on a '49 coupe that sat in a basement garage for over 40 years - it's really nice, interior is presentable, motor even turns over, but the frame rails are pretty bad on the left side from about the door back and weak but not as bad on the right side. I think it was just a combination of having been just transportation and seeing road salt for 12 years and sitting in a dark damp basement from then on. I also have a '48 sedan that was driven in 1996, but it too has some rot, mainly where it kicks up for the axle and the rear bumper mounts. The floors in both really aren't that bad from what I can see, might be a couple holes in the front pans on the coupe, I couldn't see any on the sedan at all.
Maybe the thing to do is make a template, find someone with a mandrel bender, and have them bend up some 2x4 box tube.
Fab your own like you said out of tubeing thats the best way to go. Also look around and poke around for other rust issues these have them in other places beside the frames.0 -
one idea i have been playing with for rail replacements (i intend on making my own chassis for a rod one day) is getting channels pressed from flat plate then pie cutting/pressing it to suit the contours you need, then cut box plates with the rolled ege like you see on some frames boxed from the factory. depending on what you are replacing, this can become a lot of work. i extend, shorten and replace chassis rails on heavy trucks at work so thats just a twist on what we already do. if only i had my own workshop i could tackle such a project. one day..........!0
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I tried to buy a NOS inner framerail for one side and a outer for the other side last year at Hershey for this very reason. I wanted to reproduce them. I spoke with the guy who has them at Doc's meet this year. He is working on getting some made. He is from one of the New England states................0
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I am facing the same issues with my car, a 49 coupe and have been giving it some thought. I think re-fabbing the frame rails the same as the factory is one way to go and there are a couple ways of doing it that i've seen members do. I was also thinking of using round tubing and using a bender and replacing the boxed channels with the round ones. It would be plenty strong and you would have to fab attachment points to them but I think it could work. What say the rest of you?0
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by going the round tube route, be careful of the ways you weld the brackets on or you can build stress points right in there really easily and have problems with it cracking further down the line.0
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