just to be sure
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Have re-installed the inner fender liner on the '53, and fixed up some of the wiring, in preparation for the new engine.
Just to be absolutely certain I've got things back the right way, -- a couple questions :
-- The condenser on the coil hooks up to the negative terminal ?
-- The condenser on the voltage regulator connects to the "Batt" terminal ?
-- The big wire from the generator hooks to the "Batt" terminal on the voltage regulator, and the small wire to the "Field" trerminal ?
Is this correct ?
I tried to take a picture, but everything is so shiney black that it didn't turn out too good. However, for what its worth, here it is. Not sure if you can see it but the KGap inner fender skirt turned out really well ! Those staples were a bear though, ( had to drill out each hole with a tiny drill bit, and put in each staple one at a time by hand, bending them over at the back with a small hammer), and then painting each one black with a tiny brush.
After much agonizing over how the heck I was going to accomplish this, I stumbled over some Arrow T50 stainless steel staples hanging on the rack at my local building supplier, that worked out perfectly !
Engine goes in next week, as soon as I get my manifolds back. I can hardly wait to get back out there on the highways.
silverone.
Just to be absolutely certain I've got things back the right way, -- a couple questions :
-- The condenser on the coil hooks up to the negative terminal ?
-- The condenser on the voltage regulator connects to the "Batt" terminal ?
-- The big wire from the generator hooks to the "Batt" terminal on the voltage regulator, and the small wire to the "Field" trerminal ?
Is this correct ?
I tried to take a picture, but everything is so shiney black that it didn't turn out too good. However, for what its worth, here it is. Not sure if you can see it but the KGap inner fender skirt turned out really well ! Those staples were a bear though, ( had to drill out each hole with a tiny drill bit, and put in each staple one at a time by hand, bending them over at the back with a small hammer), and then painting each one black with a tiny brush.
After much agonizing over how the heck I was going to accomplish this, I stumbled over some Arrow T50 stainless steel staples hanging on the rack at my local building supplier, that worked out perfectly !
Engine goes in next week, as soon as I get my manifolds back. I can hardly wait to get back out there on the highways.
silverone.
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Comments
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Hey, looking real good. The splash shield looks great. The stainless steel staples were a good idea. But, painting each and every one...priceless.
Condensors for the applications you mention are not shown in the shop manual schematic.
You're correct for the generator battery wiring. It should be a short length that goes from the battery (-) to the starter solenoid. The jacket of the wire to the field terminal should be white.0 -
Here are answers to your questions.
1. The condenser on the coil hooks up to the negative terminal ? True
2. The condenser on the voltage regulator connects to the "Batt" terminal ? False. It should connect to the Armature.
For those of you who are wondering what these condensers do, their function is to suppress noise in the radio.
3. The big wire from the generator hooks to the "Batt" terminal on the voltage regulator, and the small wire to the "Field" trerminal ?
False and true. The big wire from the generator hooks to the Armature or "A" terminal on the voltage regulator.0 -
Dave53-7C wrote:Hey, looking real good. The splash shield looks great. The stainless steel staples were a good idea. But, painting each and every one...priceless.
Condensors for the applications you mention are not shown in the shop manual schematic.
You're correct for the generator battery wiring. It should be a short length that goes from the battery (-) to the starter solenoid. The jacket of the wire to the field terminal should be white.
Yep, its white. I have a complete new wiring harness for the car from Y&Z but don't think I'll use all of it due to the original wiring being in pretty good shape yet.0 -
silverone wrote:Yep, its white. I have a complete new wiring harness for the car from Y&Z but don't think I'll use all of it due to the original wiring being in pretty good shape yet.
You really are doing that car up right. You have to post dozens of pics when you're done. However, that doesn't mean you can slack off in the mean time.
Do you have a 52 shop manual? If not, you should pick one up since the schematic in it is larger than that in the 53-54 supplement. I don't have any condensors for noise suppression on my bone stock 53. Also, I'm running NOS copper core Champion H-11 plugs with NORS copper core wires. So far, no problems with radio reception in the car. But, as far as others suffering ill effects due to my cars lack of condensors or resistor plugs and wires, no reports yet. The only condensor on my car is that for the ignition points.0 -
Use condensers & supressors only as needed to eliminate noise in the radio. Some cars need all of them , & some don't need any. Check noises after car is together & running with hood closed & go from there.0
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Steve E. wrote:Use condensers & supressors only as needed to eliminate noise in the radio. Some cars need all of them , & some don't need any. Check noises after car is together & running with hood closed & go from there.
Ironically, there's no AM stations left around my hometown !! It was three years before I knew if my radio worked or not, because I had to wait until I went to Edmonton, Alberta, for a Hudson meet last year to find that out. The second day there it dawned on me that maybe I should try the radio, and waddaya know, it worked like a charm !!
You'd a needed a yardstick to measure the grin that got out of me !! Sort of like finding a dusty old Hudson in a barn, turning the key, and having it start !! Almost the same feeling.
Years ago when we had AM stations here, and I was driving a '50 Merc coupe, I'd tease the kids a bit when they inevitably asked me if the radio works. I'd tell them yes, ---- but it plays really old music, and they probably wouldn't like it. Well the looks I'd get were absolutely priceless ! They weren't sure if I was pulling their leg or not !!
silverone0 -
It would have been funny if the kids said, "Great, turn on the radio so we can get some old news for that history report we're working on."0
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mars55 wrote:Here are answers to your questions.
1. The condenser on the coil hooks up to the negative terminal ? True
2. The condenser on the voltage regulator connects to the "Batt" terminal ? False. It should connect to the Armature.
For those of you who are wondering what these condensers do, their function is to suppress noise in the radio.
3. The big wire from the generator hooks to the "Batt" terminal on the voltage regulator, and the small wire to the "Field" trerminal ?
False and true. The big wire from the generator hooks to the Armature or "A" terminal on the voltage regulator.
OK, now I'm really confused.
You say the big wire hooks to the Armature or "A" terminal on the VR, but my car was wired with it to the "Bat" terminal, (the first one on the left as you stand facing it). Also, my Y&Z instructions show it in diagram form hooking up to the left hand side (facing cover), which they call the "A" terminal, but is really the "Bat" terminal by the markings on the cover.
Perhaps the "A" they are referring to is not "A" for armature, but "A" for the first terminal on the left ?
My car ran fine with it wired this way before I tore it down, and logic would say that output current from the generator should go to the battery for charging, so why would this wire go to armature ?
Looking at another '53 I have, its wired with big wire to "Bat", or first terminal on left, as mine was.
Maybe the cover on the voltage regulator is on upside down? When everything is right, which terminal is closest to the firewall?0 -
If you wire the Armature to the Batt or "B" terminal, you are wiring the Voltage Regulator out of the circuit. Since the output of the generator needs to go through the Voltage Regulator so that the voltage and current being produce can be measured by the Voltage Regulator in order that the Voltage Regulator can adjust the generator's output to keep it in spec. What is connected to the "A" terminal?0
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silverone wrote:OK, now I'm really confused.
You say the big wire hooks to the Armature or "A" terminal on the VR, but my car was wired with it to the "Bat" terminal, (the first one on the left as you stand facing it). Also, my Y&Z instructions show it in diagram form hooking up to the left hand side (facing cover), which they call the "A" terminal, but is really the "Bat" terminal by the markings on the cover.
Perhaps the "A" they are referring to is not "A" for armature, but "A" for the first terminal on the left ?
My car ran fine with it wired this way before I tore it down, and logic would say that output current from the generator should go to the battery for charging, so why would this wire go to armature ?
Looking at another '53 I have, its wired with big wire to "Bat", or first terminal on left, as mine was.
Maybe the cover on the voltage regulator is on upside down? When everything is right, which terminal is closest to the firewall?
Unless the shop manual lies, here's the end to your confusion:
#1 Gauge wire (black jacket) from generator armature to left hand side of the starter relay. From starter relay you'll have a #10 gauge wire (black jacket) that goes to the B terminal on the regulator.
If you were holding the regulator in your hand with the terminals facing away from you, the sequence, starting from the left, would be B - F - A, or Battery - Field - Armature.
Hope this helps.0 -
Dave53-7C wrote:Unless the shop manual lies, here's the end to your confusion:
#1 Gauge wire (black jacket) from generator armature to left hand side of the starter relay. From starter relay you'll have a #10 gauge wire (black jacket) that goes to the B terminal on the regulator.
If you were holding the regulator in your hand with the terminals facing away from you, the sequence, starting from the left, would be B - F - A, or Battery - Field - Armature.
Hope this helps.
The '53 wiring diagram does not run the wire to the starter relay from the generator armature. It least the copy of the wiring diagram in the Hudson Body Service Manual 1948 -1954 doesn't. It runs a black wire marked #12from the generator armature to the "A" terminal on the regulator.0 -
Ooops, your right Mars55! Thanks for correcting me. If your not younger than me, your eyes can read the small print much better than mine. Please check me on the following:
Field from generator to field on regulator is circuit 11, #16 wire, white.
Armature from generator to armature on regulator is circuit 12, #12 wire, black.
Wire from battery (-) to left hand starter relay is circuit 1, #1 wire, black.
Jumper from left hand side of relay to B on regulator is circuit 4, #10 wire, black.
Again, thanks.0 -
Right you are! As far as seeing goes, I cheat. I use a magnifying glass.0
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Thanks. Ah ha, now I known your secret. It's tough being a teenager trapped in a "mature" body. But, it beats the alternative.0
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Dave53-7C wrote:Ooops, your right Mars55! Thanks for correcting me. If your not younger than me, your eyes can read the small print much better than mine. Please check me on the following:
Field from generator to field on regulator is circuit 11, #16 wire, white.
Armature from generator to armature on regulator is circuit 12, #12 wire, black.
Wire from battery (-) to left hand starter relay is circuit 1, #1 wire, black.
Jumper from left hand side of relay to B on regulator is circuit 4, #10 wire, black.
Again, thanks.
Well, if that don't beat all !! After scratching my head over this info for some time, checking two other cars as to how they were wired ( which was also confusing due to their regulator covers having no markings as to which terminal was which ), and determining that my wires went to the same places as theirs, but nothing still made sense according to the instructions I've recieved here, as a last resort I checked to see if the regulator cover could be rotated 180 dergrees and still bolt up.
Sure enough,
soon as I flipped the cover, and screwed it back down, everything suddenly made sense !! Some goofus must have put the cover on upside down way back when, and set me up big time.
Whew -- maybe I'll get some sleep tonight !! This was driving me nuts !!
Quite the experience, ---undoing old fix - it jobs from years gone by done by self-taught "mechanics" in the backyard, using parts from the Fordson tractor, maybe Gramma's old washing machine, four different kinds of bolts from the Uncle Henry's old barbeque or heaven knows what else !! Good thing it wasn't built in the teens, or early twenties. I now have a whole new respect for those individuals who've tackled a resto on those cars.
silverone.0 -
silverone wrote:Well, if that don't beat all !! After scratching my head over this info for some time, checking two other cars as to how they were wired ( which was also confusing due to their regulator covers having no markings as to which terminal was which ), and determining that my wires went to the same places as theirs, but nothing still made sense according to the instructions I've recieved here, as a last resort I checked to see if the regulator cover could be rotated 180 dergrees and still bolt up.
Sure enough,
soon as I flipped the cover, and screwed it back down, everything suddenly made sense !! Some goofus must have put the cover on upside down way back when, and set me up big time.
Whew -- maybe I'll get some sleep tonight !! This was driving me nuts !!
Quite the experience, ---undoing old fix - it jobs from years gone by done by self-taught "mechanics" in the backyard, using parts from the Fordson tractor, maybe Gramma's old washing machine, four different kinds of bolts from the Uncle Henry's old barbeque or heaven knows what else !! Good thing it wasn't built in the teens, or early twenties. I now have a whole new respect for those individuals who've tackled a resto on those cars.
silverone.
Well, I'm glad that you finally got it sorted out. Sorry about the goof up. Anyway, decades of DIY repairs can make things a tad confusing. Sean from up your way recently found a Commodore that had two starter relays and dual oil filters. Man, talk about goofy.0
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