Gas & oil type??

35Terra · July 2007

Hello,

New guy here. Had a couple of dumb questions. I just bought a "new" 35 Terraplane with a six cyclinder and was wondering what type of gas to put in it? Do I need to add any oil to the gas? And what type of oil should be used in the engine? Non detergent or detergent? Straight 30 or 10w-30?

I will have to include pictures later as I have none right now.

Jim

Jon B · July 2007

Oil: generally agreed-upon rule is: if the engine has been rebuilt or the interior cleaned out recently, you can use detergent. If it's old and cruddy inside, use non-detergent (this only comes in straight-30, as I understand it). As to which multi-viscosity detergent oil to use, you will get a lot of opinions, which (to my way of thinking) means, 'use anything!'

Gasoline: Just use regular. I happen to add 4 oz. of 'Marvel Mystery Oil' to each new tankful, simply because it's rumored to fight the tendency of Hudson splasher valves to hang up (due to lack of lubrication), and because it's rumored to lower the boiling point of today's gasolines (thus preventing vapor lock). But these are only rumors, and you can certainly get away without adding any additives. Don't worry, for example, about adding lead additives; I removed the valves from my Terraplane after many years of unleaded gas use, and found them to be in perfect condition.

You didn't mention whether or not you were a member of the H-E-T Club but if not, I recommend that you join.

[Deleted User] · July 2007

Jon is right if you have not already joined the HET club you need to. This is were you will find out alot of good info and parts for sale etc. it is a first class type magazine well worth the price of the dues.

Park_W · July 2007

And a related point ... the factory recommended ignition timing (TDC ... no advance) was based on 80 octane gas. With today's 87 octane regular, try about 6 degrees advanced ... your engine will be a lot more peppy and the gas mileage much better.

35Terra · July 2007

Thanks for the replies. This car comes to me by way of the passing of my Uncle. He had the car for some 35-40 years. I drove it once when he was in the hospital (long boring story).

He was an excellent mechanic and rebuilt this motor years ago. He then recently replaced the timing gear and went through the engine (pistons were rumored to have been out), and the engine runs great.

But I have no way of knowing what oil he used as he had hd30 and 10-40 in the trunk (he would take extra oil on long trips). Both look to have at least a SL rating so he must have been using detergent oil. So for now I most likely will use a multigrade detergent as the oil still looks "gold" on the dipstick.

I will have to check the timing to see where it is set.

Jim

By the way...I did find a leaking top radiator hose. Are those still available from the local auto store or would they laugh at me for calling them?

37 CTS · July 2007

Welcome to Hudsoning

Most current motor oils no longer contain

zinc as it is hard on cat.converters of new cars

The zinc is needed to lubricate cams and lifters.

Valvolene Max life has zinc and I reccomend the synthetic

ck their website.

Some Diesel oils have zinc if you can find CI-4 rated oils

but it is being phased out.

STP also has Zinc and can be added.

29 Vic

[Deleted User] · July 2007

Do not put STP in a splasher type oiling system as it will retard the oil's ability to splash since it will thicken the oil.

hudsonguy · July 2007

Park W wrote:

And a related point ... the factory recommended ignition timing (TDC ... no advance) was based on 80 octane gas. With today's 87 octane regular, try about 6 degrees advanced ... your engine will be a lot more peppy and the gas mileage much better.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but could you refresh me on the flywheel mark 'values'. Isn't it each mark is equivalent to two degrees? Hence, three marks is six degrees? The manual doesn't really get that specific.

Thanks for the help

Jon B · July 2007

One additional thing on the 'zinc controversy' -- you could add a bottle of "EOS" zinc additive (available from GM parts departments for a bit less than $10) to your crankcase. That way you don't have to spend days trying to find some specialty zinc-filled oil in just the right vicosity.

37 CTS · July 2007

General Motors no longer makes EOS and there is no replacement. It must have had zinc in it and therefore they do not want it used in cars with converters. IF you could find some , it would be similar to using STP in a splasher engine.

29 Vic

35Terra · July 2007

Wow. Thanks for all the info. I'm amazed at all the knowledgeable people on this board.

By splasher type, do you mean there is no oil pump? The oil gets "splashed" around by the crank? Sort of like a motorcycle? Then I think the thinner oils (like 30w) would be better than say a 40w and above. Is this correct thinking?

I still need to find my uncle's repair books. I have found lots of spare parts (carbs, water pumps, etc). I think the books would answer alot of my questions.

BTW I'm planning on joining the HET. Just haven't found the time as I have been getting the car ready for our local antique car parade.

Jim

SamJ · July 2007

The Hudson "splasher" engine has a 2-level pan...the top pan has a trough at the bottom of each rod. A scoop on the end of the rod picks up oil and flings it into the engine. As it returns to the pan, the oil runs thorough channels and galleries to lubricate all moving parts in the engine. There IS an oil pump...a simple device that pumps oil from the lower pan (sump) into the upper pan. The system works remarkably well, and Hudson set many high-speed endurance records with splasher engines. Lighter oil is good, and as mentioned elsewhere, additives like STP are a no-no.

It is wise to drop the pan if you are not sure how long since it's been done and clean it out. This is not difficult. Since the oil is never completely changed by conventional oil change (about a quart remains in the upper pan), the sump is prone to residue build-up. New gasket sets are readily available from Club sources like Dale Cooper. It is also a good time to change your clutch fluid. Fluid is available from the Club Store, Wildrick Restorations, and other sources. One of the Club Members in your area will likely be glad to describe/oversee/help with these small maintenance chores. :cool:

Sources:

www.hudsonmotorcarco.com

www.geocities.com/hudsonclutchman

www.vintageautorestoration.com

Geoff · July 2007

Okay, I'm sticking my neck on the line here - don't fiddle about with so-called "straight" grade oil. Multi-grade modern oils are much better than the old type oils. A good grade 20w-50 is much better for your car in all temperatures than a straight 30 weight. And a detergent oil will not flood your engine with carbon deposits. I use Castrol GTX in my '28 Essex, but any of the established brands will be suitable. Oil companies don't market stuff that is going to ruin your engine, but a multi-grade will protect it better under normal circumstances better than a straght grade.

Geoff.

[Deleted User] · July 2007

Recommendation from Amsoil, for my '37 Terraplane; "the best oil for this application is the 15W - 40 diesel marine engine oil. It is rated for gasoline and diesel engines, and also provides good corrosion protection for vehicles infrequently used."

BN

TwinH · July 2007

29 Vic wrote:

General Motors no longer makes EOS and there is no replacement. It must have had zinc in it and therefore they do not want it used in cars with converters. IF you could find some , it would be similar to using STP in a splasher engine.

29 Vic

What? No more EOS? Ah nuts. Just checked my cabinet and I only have

1 pint left. I know I've seen it this year at my local Chevy dealer this year.

Guess I'm gonna have to start scrounging. part #1052367 16oz.

I use Shell Rotella 15w-40 in my 308 modified with a full flow oil filter. This

motor came to me with a cold knock that use to bother me and before my

last trip I drained out a 1/2" square piece of copper shim stock looking stuff.

No idea where it came from cause I cut the filter apart and found no other

sign of metal. Trip was 2845 mi. and used 2 qts.

I have been adding a pnt. of E.O.S. every other oil change for the zinc and

have used it in race engines and rebuilds for 30 yrs. as a break-in supplement.

Gas & oil type??

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