Dumb question

Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
So is a '49 wired so the starter button is hot all the time, or only when the ignition is turned on?



I only ask as on another car I have the button is hot when a battery is hooked up, but on the Hudson it seems to not be. My crappy old borrowed battery shows 6 volts even on a meter and lights the dash lights, so there is some power there. How many amps are in it is another story. So far all I find working is the radio makes a hum and lights up, and the dash lights and one parking light seem to work.



It's not a big deal if the button isn't hot (looks easy to jump power to the solenoid), but I'd rather use it just because I don't want to chance a battery problem occuring while I am underhood.

Comments

  • nick s
    nick s Senior Contributor
    the button should feed power from the accessory terminal of ignition switch. if you have an origonal type starter solenoid, there will also be a button on the solenoid to bump the starter underhood.
  • Pull your cell caps off the battery & watch them while engaging the starter. If any cells bubble under load, you've got a dead cell.
  • On the battery, what about if it was bubbling up while charging? It did push some acid out the caps that I see on top of it. I hate to look in it while cranking, but I do have some safety glasses handy just in case.



    I'm almost more surprised I got a charge in it, it's not really old, but it did sit outside on a staircase for a couple winters. Heck, I've never messed with 6V before, I'm not even sure if 6.00 is a normal reading, or if when fully charged it should read 7 or 8 volts (like a 12V can read 14V if it's healthy).



    I'll have to look the solenoid over better. I'm just assuming that instead of turning the key to a crank position, it just turns on and you hit the button. Now I just need to borrow a compact or something so I can see which terminal is which on the coil, so I can make a lead to hotwire that when I want to fire it. But right now, all I get is some lights, so looks like more figuring out to do.
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    pontiac59 wrote:

    I'm almost more surprised I got a charge in it, it's not really old, but it did sit outside on a staircase for a couple winters. Heck, I've never messed with 6V before, I'm not even sure if 6.00 is a normal reading, or if when fully charged it should read 7 or 8 volts (like a 12V can read 14V if it's healthy).



    Officially a lead-acid cell is 2.2 volts when fully charged. So a 6 volt battery fully charged should be 6.6 volts.
  • Thanks. I left the charger on it, will see what happens, although given it's been on there 3 or 4 days already I'd imagine it's as charged as it will get.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    I know you probably don't want to plunge into this thing with a huge investment, but a good battery is really a necessity with these older cars. Six volt systems are not as forgiving as 12-volt. With a bad battery, six volt components just plain won't work. If you intend to keep this car, I might suggest you invest in a good battery with a high cold cranking amp rating. For example, I have a "DEKA" battery (made in Pa.) with a 780 cca rating. This costs about $70. Those new gel batteries have even higher cold cranking amps but are very expensive (over $100).



    Those who try to get away with a used battery, or a new "cheapie" with a low cca rating, will never be sure that the electrical problems they encounter are the fault of a specific component (or wiring) -- or the fault of the battery itslef (which is likely!).



    Also, the correct heavy-gauge battery cable should be used (we've mentioned this before), plus separate ground straps from battery + terminal to frame, and frame to engine.



    In my opinion, these things -- good battery, correct cables, and adequate grounding -- will go a long way towards making your six-volt car run well.
  • Battery cells will bubble while being charged, that's normal but Not on discharge. A fully charged 6 volt battery should read 6.6 volts, 2,2 volts per cell.
  • Jon B wrote:



    Also, the correct heavy-gauge battery cable should be used (we've mentioned this before), plus separate ground straps from battery + terminal to frame, and frame to engine.





    Which brings me to a question I should have asked - positive ground on these cars?





    If the battery cables on this car were changed, they were changed before 1963, and they're not in that bad of shape - the ground strap is so-so, but I figured to add a jumper if necessary. The cable going to the solenoid looks fine, terminal and all.



    I just borrowed this battery not even knowing if it would hold a charge, but hoping it would last long enough to see if I can make the thing run. If I can make it run, then I'll go buy a good 6-volt battery for it. But for now I'm just trying to get it to turn over and cough. I guess that makes it sound like someone getting checked for a hernia in the movie Cars? heh...
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    I don't mean to be argumentative here, but it could be a viscious cycle: if the battery isn't good, you won't have enough 'ooomph' to give you a spark (after expending all the juice on turning the starter), thus the engine will never run right and you'll assume it isn't worth investing in a new battery!



    I understand your reluctance to drop a lot of money into it, without knowing if it's worth it.



    Any way you could either borrow a fairly new battery, or have this one tested (maybe at the local car parts place; I think the local Advance Auto will do this)? Of course, that used battery may be just fine, but if it isn't you'll do all your troubleshooting from a distinct disadvantage!
  • Which brings me to this question the answer to might be fairly important - is this a positive ground car?



    This was the battery available to borrow -
  • Jay_G
    Jay_G Expert Adviser
    Yes, this is a positive ground car.



    Jay
  • Thanks. I checked my 1961 Motors, remembering it covers to 1955 and includes one year with Hudson sixes and that said positive ground.



    The battery is junk, it didn't help that it was in gear when I did it but I wiped it out motoring the starter a bit and then when I hit the right terminal it tried to move the car with the starter - enough to rock it a little and that was that. I think had it not been in gear it would have cranked it over fine, but.. who knows, it only draws like .8 amps off the charger.
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