Battery
BEEN FIGHTING A STALLING PROBLEM FER MONTHS NOW..Car runs at idle just fine but when I take it out on the road It Just simply stops dead..
Could a weak or bad battery cause this to happen?? After car cools down I can get it to re start and drive a short distance till it goes dead again.
Thanks..
Tom
Could a weak or bad battery cause this to happen?? After car cools down I can get it to re start and drive a short distance till it goes dead again.
Thanks..
Tom
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Comments
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Possibly, it might be a good idea to check your battery cables and connections. Maybe you have a loose ground or a frayed connection. I had a similar problem with a brand x years ago.0
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I thought we just went through this in another thread, Tom ("Back to Square One")! Trouble with starting a whole new thread on the same subject, is that helpful people (new to the thread) will just start posting the same old suggestions we've just gone over (and which didn't work). So it's gonna be deja vu all over again... If you kick-started the old thread, then we could see where we've been with all the suggestions, and possibly offer some new (and maybe successful) ones...0
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Its a new thread because the issue of a battery problem was never talked about and the problem with an old thread is that after a couple of days it is forgotten and never visited again..
I'm searching for recomendations and assistance..wasn't aware that there was a specific protocol to follow0 -
TOM-WA- wrote:BEEN FIGHTING A STALLING PROBLEM FER MONTHS NOW..Car runs at idle just fine but when I take it out on the road It Just simply stops dead..
Could a weak or bad battery cause this to happen?? After car cools down I can get it to re start and drive a short distance till it goes dead again.
Thanks..
Tom
There's no protocol, keep it coming. I don't think it's your battery as your car once running, should keep running on the generator even if you disconnected the battery. Check carb needle and seat. I had a car that would frequently stop when on a smooth road [ usually the freeway]. It would start up again after rolling to a stop on the side of the road only to do it again a few minutes later on the same smooth road. It turned out to be the needle and seat sticking closed when there were no bumps in the road to shake it loose.Try a different coil or call Geoff Clark. Goodluck. Paul.0 -
check for spark when it stops,if none your ign coil is bad,heats up and starts again after cooling some, check fuel delivery by looking in carb throat and work accelerator. if none check filters and then fuel pump0
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Hi Tom
At the point it stalls on you - have you determined if gas is still getting through the carb or does it not even want to crank over?
I had a carb one time that the rubber on the needle valve would swell and stick closed as the carb was designed only to use the fuel pressure to keep it open. It would quit running and I'd have to let it cool down to start it again.
As far as the battery - I have seen batteries with loose plates that would cause a dead short when driving and kill the motor. It's rare occurance but possible.0 -
My guess would be fuel pump. Just a hunch!
Geoff.0 -
Tom,
This would be easy to check, and I had it happen to me once in a boat. I would take off and get about 100 yards and the engine would quit. Start back up and go another 100 yards and it would quit. It turned out that the gas tank vent was partially plugged. It would vent just enough to idle, but once you started sucking gas, it would quit. Good luck.0 -
Model 92 wrote:There's no protocol, keep it coming. I don't think it's your battery as your car once running, should keep running on the generator even if you disconnected the battery. Check carb needle and seat. I had a car that would frequently stop when on a smooth road [ usually the freeway]. It would start up again after rolling to a stop on the side of the road only to do it again a few minutes later on the same smooth road. It turned out to be the needle and seat sticking closed when there were no bumps in the road to shake it loose.Try a different coil or call Geoff Clark. Goodluck. Paul.
The battery is actually part of the circuit. I put my battery in series using a set of jumper cables and started the engine. When I unclipped a cable, the car died. If you short past the battery, my guess is the gen will run the car. But a loose cable could possibly be your problem. I'll check the old thread to see how far that got.0 -
TOM-WA- wrote:BEEN FIGHTING A STALLING PROBLEM FER MONTHS NOW..Car runs at idle just fine but when I take it out on the road It Just simply stops dead..
Could a weak or bad battery cause this to happen?? After car cools down I can get it to re start and drive a short distance till it goes dead again.
Thanks..
Tom
What was the outcome? Paul.0 -
Sounds Like vapor lock, I had a school bus that we hauled a stock car in, It did the same thing every week we tried everything, even put dry ice on the manifold, and drove to the track with the hood off, didn't work!! Put an electric fuel pump in, never did it again.
Barry Smedley0 -
CRAPOLA..................
Ok so now I put on a New fuel pump and it's worse....I can't even get it out of the driveway now...I'm at wits end.....It is starving for gas..worse now with the new Fuel pump....
Checked electrical..not there...checked carb..not there and now installed a new fuel pump and it got worse...
HELP0 -
Tom, Put the old pump back on and if it returns to the way it was, I would think that you have found the problem, but first check for a wear pattern on the arm of the new pump. Is the arm riding on the eccentric at the top of the flat? check it against the wear pattern on the old pump. As a matter of fact, check to make sure the pump arms are identicle. If not you may have to adjust the gasket stack to fit the new pump. Of course you could have gotten a bad pump.0
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Coils and condensers can both quit when hot and work again when cooled.0
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:eek: Hi Tom,I had a similar problem years ago with one of my '49 Hudson's, turned out to be the generator, but that was at night. Daytime the engine would run fine, but soon as I turned on the lights it would quite. Let it sit fora few hours and it would start again. Check the coil, condenser and the wires inside the distributor, When the distributor plate turns a little, it can ground a hot wire, Do not give up, it is a learning process, good luck. Arnie M,0
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Jon B wrote:I thought we just went through this in another thread, Tom ("Back to Square One")! Trouble with starting a whole new thread on the same subject, is that helpful people (new to the thread) will just start posting the same old suggestions we've just gone over (and which didn't work). So it's gonna be deja vu all over again... If you kick-started the old thread, then we could see where we've been with all the suggestions, and possibly offer some new (and maybe successful) ones...
You never let us know how you get on with all of the great suggestions
The most basic being : at time of shutting down, do you still have fuel and spark?
I was out driving in my '39 Hudson yesterday and it was running beautifully.
Suddenly it stopped and I rolled to the kerb. Problem: Intermittent connection through ignition switch.
Maybe try hot wiring your car and road testing it. Wire from negative on coil to negative on battery [providing that you still have negative earth. Paul
P.S. Please give us progress reports as it helps everyone with these old car problems.0 -
usgrant7 wrote:
The battery is actually part of the circuit. I put my battery in series using a set of jumper cables and started the engine. When I unclipped a cable, the car died. If you short past the battery, my guess is the gen will run the car. But a loose cable could possibly be your problem. I'll check the old thread to see how far that got.I was running my Hudson yesterday and while it was idling, I disconnected the battery...........guess what?.............it kept running!
The cable disconnected [mentioned in the above quote], would have been supplying the ignition.0 -
Model 92 wrote:
I was running my Hudson yesterday and while it was idling, I disconnected the battery...........guess what?.............it kept running!
The cable disconnected [mentioned in the above quote], would have been supplying the ignition.
Of course it kept running! The generator is charging whilst the engine is running. So long as there is a circuit to earth (in this instance through the ignition coil) there will still be a voltage supplied by the generator. However, it is a dangerous thing to do, as there is no balancing voltage from the battery to keep the output stable, and the voltage can climb dangerously high if the engine speed is increased. I had a case many years ago with my Essex, of the battery open-circuiting internally, and no power at all. No problem I thought, it was facing downhill, I will just crash-start it. That worked fine, but as soon as I got running I turned the lights on and blew all the bulbs.
Geoff.0 -
Model 92 wrote:There's no protocol, keep it coming. I don't think it's your battery as your car once running, should keep running on the generator even if you disconnected the battery. Check carb needle and seat. I had a car that would frequently stop when on a smooth road [ usually the freeway]. It would start up again after rolling to a stop on the side of the road only to do it again a few minutes later on the same smooth road. It turned out to be the needle and seat sticking closed when there were no bumps in the road to shake it loose.Try a different coil or call Geoff Clark. Goodluck. Paul.
Geoff, I was being sarcastic, but the threads are getting a bit disjointed on this one and it made me look stupid. This was my original thread on the matter. I'll stop here. Paul.:)0 -
Okay Tom fit an electric fuel pump.0
This discussion has been closed.
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